Buenos Aires May 28 to June 2

Mom and Gram arrived.  Forrest has developed a cold, probably from a weakened immune due to the strong allergic reaction to the mold from the other apartment.  So we ran around trying to get him stuff to make him fight it.  We have gone grocery shopping and are settling in more.  

Mom and Gram arrived this morning after travelling a full day.  They were visibly tired but were in good spirits and wanted to go do something.  We were heading into downtown to American Express and so they went with us riding the Subway.  Afterwards we went grocery shopping again to cook in house the first night.

The next day we went and took the bus tour to see the city.  It's fairly new this particular service and is on a double decker bus.  They arent necessarily our favorite things to do (any of us) but the buses are new, clean, and have some neat audio systems that have 10 languages to choose from as you are guided through the city to see major sights. you  can get on and off as you like at the set stops.  You buy a two day pass.  We only ended up doing the one afternoon but we saw some neat areas that we want to go back to.   We went out and had dinner that evening, which is about the latest place to eat dinner we have been so far.  But we had a very good steak dinner and the service was great.   The theme in this city so far is great food, lots of transportation, good service and a very friendly people which is so unusual for such a large city as this.  

Saturday was rainy and so we stayed in.  The next day we headed to the Plaza Frances to go to see the Mausoleum which is an incredible site.  Its a massive "park" with blocks and blocks (almost a city itself) of crypts and mausoleums.  Each one different and ornate and having a unique theme.  I dont usually like things like that but this was definately an amazing thing to see.  Afterwards we headed into the street market.  There were people still setting up but a lot had already gotten their wares ready.  It was a very large market all outdoors with specific booths for people to claim.  It was fun to see all of the great stuff.  Some very unique handmade and then some things you could buy anywhere.  But mostly some great handicrafts.  Mom and i were becoming obsessed with the various Tango art.  

The next day we did errands and then in the evening decided to take Gram to the casino.  It is on two river boats parked next to each other.  It was an interesting complex but none of us were very impressed by how anything was paying.  While out the next day we decided to book a Tango show and then a trip over to Colonia, Uruguay by passenger ferry.  We are going to do those later this week.  More to come on those.  

Guayaquil to Buenos Aires May 25 - 28

After some quick respite in Guayaquil, Ecuador we got on a flight (LAN) to Buenos Aires.  The flight was not the best we have had on LAN (Very crowded, full flight and the seating wasnt the best).  Up to now we have been so happy, and still are, with LAN.  It was a long flight first to Santiago where we disembarked and then got back on the flight as it continued on to Buenos Aires.  The plane wasnt full and so we were able to spread out.  We were definately tired by the time we got in the next morning.

We were met by the manager of the apartment rental place (property management).  Forrest had reserved a nice spot between Recoletta and Palermo.  It was a great old building.  The elevator required you to open and close two doors for it to work.  The apartment itself was very cute and we quickly unpacked and settled in.  We were both tired and so didnt really push it that first night.  We wanted to start getting things set up before mom and gram arrived on thursday.  

We woke up the next morning and Forrest went to have a shower.  He was having a coughing fit.  He wasnt not feeling well.  Then i had my shower and had the same problem.  The bathroom had water damage (the manager had shared) but as we all thought it wasnt an issue in the end we found out that there was some serious mold and mildew issues going on in the bathroom and part of the master room.  We ended up calling the management firm and told them we needed to leave.  Forrest was getting sicker by the minute.  He is extremely allergic to mold and mildew and i discovered i was mildly.  I never saw him get so ill so quickly.  That is saying something. 

We had to pack up all our things and haul our stuff up the street 14 blocks closer to Barrio Norte.  The rental firm sent a very nice young woman to help us haul our stuff and call cabs.  (a slight issue in Buenos Aires).  The new apartment is more modern and is right on one of the main roads of the city.  It wasnt as quaint as the other but it was dry.  Since it was a smaller space we decided to rent a studio right next door to us.  It is cute but not very big.  But at least they have their own space but also are the room next door and so close.  We had to spend another day settling in.  We were so fed up we decided to stop and find a movie theater and to go see a movie.  We have been so behind in movies.  So we went to go see "Star Trek."  It was in Spanish Subtitles and was down by the docks.  There was a lot of restaurants down there and night clubs but neither of us was really in the mood for a late night.  We still had some "settling in " errands to finish before mom and gram arrived.

up to to now though we have met some very nice people and everyone here seems so helpful, and really nice.  Our limited Spanish is being put to the test as they have a very different dialect here.  You can tell they have a strong Italian influence. But as long as you try people are very understanding and helpful and willing to lend a hand.

Back to Guayaquil May 23 24

The next day Endeavor anchored off of the docks where this whole trip started.  We had spent the evening cruise with a huge barbeque and viewing the trip video that the videographer had made.  We also squeezed in some packing and preparing for the journey back to Guayaquil.

We zodiaked off the ship looking back at the boat that had been our home for one week.  She had been our tour guide to an archipeligo that was unique, full of surprises and wonders (sorry to sound cliche) and experiences none of us will forget.  I know i for one will relish every special moment, every animal i encountered who was a intrigued by me as i was by it.  The Galapagos has always been my dream trip and i am very thankful to have had the opportunity to experience it.  If i am lucky i will get to go  back again but if not the people i met and the animals who bedazzled me will forever stay as very fond memories.  It was like nothing we expected and in some ways it was exactly how we imagined.  

We arrived at the airport from the docks by coach bus and as usual Lindblad had it all organized like clockwork.  We had to do very little. Lindblad does amazing trips and i encourage anyone who is lucky enough to have the opportunity to go to not let it slip by.  It will be the most unique thing will do in its class and if you have a special occasion, one that will be unforgetable.

We arrived Guayaquil and everyone split ways.  In the end Forrest and i were the last to leave, heading off to Buenos Aires. We had a long flight ahead of us but with Machu Pichu and the Galapagos behind us we werent quite sure what BA would have to offer.  Though we are looking forward to a few weeks of respite and no travel.

Cerro Dragon, Sombrero Chino and bartolome May 21 and 22

We arrived in Cerro Dragon early and there was an option to get up before God again which this time i passed on.  Essentially it was a hike up 300+ steps to reach the top of a "peak" (more like hill) to over look a volcanic landscape that apparently was impressive.  If any of you have watched Master and Commander the movie there is a scene on it that was filmed from this vantage point.  

Later on we went to our last snorkel site on the same island.  First we did a wet landing and walked across the thin section of the island to reach the other beach.  Here we saw white tip reef sharks coming right up to the shallows of the beach, their dorsal fins wagging in the surf.  There had to be at least half a dozen.   Forrest and i had swam with these in several places and had no fear of them.  i was ankle deep in the water trying to get a good shot of the silhouette of the shark with their dorsal protuding but the shot never came.  There were very interesting rock formations on this side of the island and the beach was full of life (Sea Lions, birds, and crabs).  

We walked back over to the other beach where we were told to drop our snorkel gear.  This side was teaming with life also.  Penguins were on the hunt underwater and the diversity of fish their colors matched if not surpassed anything we have seen to date.  i even swam with a school of Damsel fish(if you have seen Finding Nemo, "Dori") that were as big as my torso and the prettiest blue with yellow tail fins.  They let me swim with them as they grazed on the bottow floor.

The next day was a peaceful day.  Up to now the staff kept us VERY busy.  This day we had our last outing on Bartolome, Friday.  Not many people took this excursion so Forrest, Helen and I went with three of the photographers and a naturalist.  We were a very small group and very specialized.  At this point (actually the day before) i had the photo bug.  i was enjoying taking photos and really looking how to get a different or best shot and asking LOTS of questions.  The photographers were being very good about it all.  And always helpful.  There were no new species and the trip was slow but very enjoyable as the seven of us meandered the island. I think the best part of it all was that we found the Sally Lightfoot Crabs doing mating dances and we found a female who was "airing" her "egg hatch" which was full of eggs.  We all got some good pictures of her.

Santa Cruz May 20

The next day we arrived at Santa Cruz.  It is on this island where the most people live.  Puerto Ayora is a small port community with quaint shops and avenues.  From the dock we walked up to Darwin Research Station.  It is from here that all of the many research studies and the restoration projects are directed.  There are hundreds  of scientists and naturalists working hard to preserve the bio-diversity and endemic species to these islands.  

Because of the islands unique geographic placement they have seen some interesting immigration and use of the islands.  From Pirates who hid amongst the island chains, to whalers and seafarers who stopped by for provisions (including Giant Torti who can survive without food or water for up to two years guaranteeing fresh meat on long voyages).  To these same seafarers and local colonizers who brought with them alien species that have put added pressure to the islands.  From goats, to cattle, to cats, dogs, rats and birds there are radical restoration projects underway to stop the decline of of the endemic species of plant and animal.  At the Darwin Station one of the more successful programs is repopulating islands of the Galapagos with their endemic species (or subspecies) of Giant Torti.  This includes the eradication of alienn species.  On island has been made pristine again through the culling of thousands of goats.  And the Torti project is just one of many that they are focusing on to turn the tide and preserve this world heritage site.

It was here that we saw the Giant Tortoise, the one species that for me defined the Galapagos the most and the one for which the archipeligo got its name. Meaning "saddle" the name refers to the saddle-like shape of some of the species of Giant Torti found on the islands.

My affinity for turtles is strong as many of you know.  This was the hightlight of this trip for me.  Being so close and being able to watch and touch them brought it all closer for me.  And to see the dozens of baby Torti they were successfully breeding was amazing.  Even i, who knew the importance of every one of those animals, wanted to take one home they were so cute.  

Isabela and Fernandina Islands - May 19

Today was a very slow day for myself.  I only did one of the three excursions offered but Forrest did them all.  We crossed over the equator northward and are now situated on the western edge of the archipeligo.  Early in the morning there was an announcement to the whole boat (5:30) that the ship was sailing past the western most edge of Fernandina Island.  This is the newest of all the islands (300,000 years old) and is the most volcanically active (last major volcanic activity three weeks  ago).  It looked like an island in turmoil and the edges of the shore were in this lateset area were covered in lava flow.  There was some life in amidst this but most of the life on this island was on the edges (marine).  

We were sailing along the coast because of the unique situation of this island.  It was literally balancing on the edge .  West only a little ways off was the edge of the continental shelf where the cold under current pushes up and meets the warm equatorial current (or counter current) sometimes creating marine fog and unusual cooler waters for this area.  These conditions create a literal soup of rich organisms that the animals take advantage of here in the Galapagos.  This side of the island is known for seeing a rich diversity of marine life (like whales, fish, etc) who can take advantage of these conditions.  

Later, after breakfast we headed back to Isabela to Punto Vicente Roca to take a Zodiak ride around the edges of this unique area of Isabela.  The largest of all the islands and the one that is shaped a little like a Seahorse, we were exploring around the head (northernmost).  We were not getting on the shore but the zodiak was taking us along it.  This is where we saw our first penquins (only one the rest were swimming we later found out) and the flightless Cormorant. 

We were then taken back to the ship to put on our snorkel gear and zodiaked back to those waters.  This was cool as the Penguins were swimming and fishing and were not afraid of us so we were in and amongst them.  A few of the Cormorants were in the water too.

The afternoon we were taken back to Fernandina on the northeastern tip.  It was here that we landed at Punta Espinosa.  This was a great outing as there was just so much to see.  Tons of flightless cormorants, snakes, marine iquanas by the hundreds (some swimming between little rocky out croppings, there were tidal pools (one even had a sea turtle in it).  The ground at the shore was ropy, pumicy hardened lava and so was super slick. Three photographers fell (backwards and always protecting their equipment).  They had some skinned and bruised knees though.  We saw a juvenile sea turtle, two Great Herons, tons of Sea Lions, Crabs and even a Hawk.  These shores were rich in wildlife.  This island had a good sized (if not young) mangrove just off of the lava field but it was starting to claim the lava too.  There was an endemic (which is incredible considering the youth of this island) Cactus that grows off of the lava.  It is the primary colonizer, and breaks the lava down into gritty sand readying it for the Secondary plants that come in and continue the process of creating soil.

Champion Island and Floreana May 18

Today was perhaps my favorite day so far!  Although it was perhaps the closest to the realities of nature that i have ever gotten.

The day started with us being taken by Zodiak (of course) to Champion Island.  A little larger than the other island we snorkeled "around."  This one was characterized by steep cliffs above and deep water below.  Perfect climate for?  you guessed it fishing.  No not us.  We got into the water to do our snorkel like good Lindblad cruisers and the magic happened immediately.  There were far more fish and far more variety and and there were underwater shelves closer to the shore before the sea floor dropped via walls down to deeper waters.  The marine life was colorful and varied near the walls and shelf. Just over the drop-off was where the "feeder" fish were in the thousands.  At first they kept their distance in their huge schools.

Then as i wished in my head that they would trust me (us) they moved directly at me and surrounded me.  It was as if i had willed myself into school.  Not so. They had figured out us humans were no threat (at least the ones around them now) and were using us as shields and cover.  The closest fish were no farther than one inch from me and they all crowded me for the "protection."  Protection it turned out from above.  No sooner had i wondered why so many of my fish "brethern" were trying to be below did the first Boobie, then the next and about a three other bird species were plunging around me (not four feet) from any part of me.  The target?  You guessed it all the fish now hiding by me and all the other snorkelers.  Our arrival had only interrupted the feeding briefly.  The sea birds now confident that we were like all the other big dumb mammals, not threat.  Were plunging all around us by the tens and twenties.  

It is fascinating to watch as they dive either from the cliffs or from the air (if they are aloft already).  They come at it at "break neck" speeds and plunge go about 36 inches and then do a 70 degree upturn back toward the surface, sometimes with or without a fish.  Meanwhile we are swimming, Sea Lions are in on the action and three peculiar fish.  A trumpetlike fish, juvenile Barracuda and some large silver fish i was never able to identify, were all hunting too.  In and around us was a feeding frenzy and none of it was disturbing. Oddly enough it was beautiful almost how synchronized everything seemed.  I mean not to sound disturbing but never did we feel we were in danger of a plunging collision or a misplaced canine (from a Sea Lion)  or whatever.  The animals were both ignoring us and using us.  Eventually we had to "drift" on around the island and leave the feeding waters.  

One of the animals i wanted to see while here was a Green Sea Turtle.  Very common i hear in these waters but being that they are among my favorite animals (my tatoo sake) i wanted to see one.  I was just thinking where might they be since i expected them to be hunting where everyone else was when the silent, graceful swimmers that they are one very large individual appeared out of the blue green behind and to my left and glided by me, within five feet to take a look at me.  It turned its head to look at me and then dove and turned to its left moving off as other snorkelers got in on my moment.  I was so excited.  I left the water after that.  Nothing else could make this snorkel better.  

In the afternoon we headed to Floreana Island.  This was a wet landing.  In a wet landing you jump into the water (calf deep) and wade into the beach.  Our groups gathered on the beach before heading in.  It was on this island we would see the Galapagos Great Flamingo (i didnt even know such a thing existed).  There is a huge mineral lake that has the perfect conditions for brine shrimp.  The main diet of flamingos and the reason they are pink.  There were not many on the lake on the island a few sparse individuals spread out but there were a few individuals who were close enough for some pictures.  

Floreana was arid like the other islands but had shrub and small trees throughout the landscape.  The island was very hilly and had volcanic activity like the other islands.  The paths were tight and had vegetation growing close on both sides.  More bushy and having an endemic daisy-like bush with brigh yellow flowers.  This island had quite a few endemic species of flowering bush which was unique from the other islands we had visited so far.  It was on this island that we saw the endemic Floreana island species of mocking bird (expert at stealing drinks from visitor's water bottles) and several finches and the endemic pollinator to the Galapagos Archipeligo, the Carpenter Bee.  

Further along on the trail was where we slammed right head on into the reality of mother nature.  Although we had this experience in the water our values were not challenged as we were prepared for fish to be on the course.  Our group had just walked around the corner onto the further beach where a scene was unfolding between Frigate Birds and baby Green Sea Turtles.  Two other groups were already further down the beach.  This spectacle was unfolding at this very moment for us.  All we knew was this further beach (on the opposite side of the island from where we landed) was where Sea Turtles came to lay eggs.  All over there were signs of their coming up on the beach, etc.  There were three very large Frigates diving at the same mound where there was from our perspective a little dimple in the ground.  We were all curious at this odd behavior when as we got closer we realized what was happening.  Baby turtles were emerging and making for the sea.  I dont know if any of you have seen the Mutual of Omaha episode way back when but i remember it as a kid and it was disturbing then.  In fact i seem to remember myself as an 8 year old being distraught.  Here i was witnessing my favorite animal as prey.  One after another the babies emerged and were pick up by a swooping Frigate.  We watched as a squirming baby turtle was in the beak of a uplifting bird.  Not one baby emerged past the mound.  The dimple was too high up on the dune for us to see the babies come out.  Our only indicator was the success of the Frigates given light by the prey in their mouths.

The naturalists immediately called the other groups over at first we thought to witness this but in fact it was to rally more naturalists to protect what was going on.  I dont think there was any danger of anyone in our group trying to stop it although  we were all disturbed and heartbroken for the baby turtles.  The naturalists kept us at a distance and kept asking us not to disturb what was going on.  They were afraid one of us might turn turtle zealot and start throwing rocks at the Frigates.  None of us did and the scene stopped as quickly as it started.  Not because we were there but the swooping attempts were having less success which indicated to us that the few babies that had hatched early (supposed to be evening) were now depleted.  

Our group headed back towards the other beach trying to workout the scene we had been witness to.  We got back in our Zodiak and headed back to the ship.  On the way our Naturalist tried to talk about why what happened was good (something about turtles are supposed to hatch at night so the Frigates were eating defective turtles).  On the way to the ship the Zodiak driver spotted dolphins in the distance.  The naturalist gave the go ahead and we followed a pod of about 80 Bottle-nosed Dolphins.  Forrest got the only shot of an individual jumping out of the water in mid-air.  They were jumping everywhere. But it was Forrest's shot that recorded the moment (the pic attached) one jumping in mid air.  They were jumping everywhere and all around us and we must have ridden among them for a good 20 minutes.  Cameras and fingers were pointing in every direction.  And mothers guided their babies over to look at us at speeds you would not have thought possible for an animal that young.  

We headed back to the ship on being recalled by the captain.  All of us happy and amazed and contemplating the three scenes we had witnessed that day.  Our small group had scene three very different things regarding the realities of nature that day.  A good reminder but one not sad nor sobering but rather spiritual almost.  I had thought back at the moment with the Sea Turtle in the morning and realized there really was a "Circle of Life" not that i had not believed  before but that cliche had become just that something too familiar and abstract.  Now it was real.  I thought about id and Forrest and I talked about it.  It had been a good day.  

Isla Espanola and Gardner Bay May 17

Day 2 of our Galapagos trip landed us on Isla Espanola at Punta Suarez.  We were up at  7 am for this very special island.  Richer in wildlife and a rarity we were in for a special treat.  We were there for the Waved Albatros.  One of the largest Albatros in the world.  These birds standing easily stood at three feet.  They are so large that they often incur injury landing and they can only take off from higher ground (cliff).  They are beautiful birds and their size is difficult to show by camera.  

Espanola was in contrast a lot more lush but still arid in its type of plant life to North Seymour.  There were Blue-footed Boobies here and Frigates but this island also housed the Masked Boobie.  Similar to its cousin with blue feet the pure white plumage is replaced by a brown mask  over its eyes and brown on its back.  

My favorite bird became the swallow-tailed gull.  A grey bird with a black head.  elegant in its flight.  We saw more Iguana, crabs and sea-lions.

In the afternoon we moored just off a small Island named Gardner Bay.  We were zodiaked out to a spot where we could snorkel.  There were some great fish but the best part of it all was a colony of Galapagos Sea Lions were there and they were in a playful mood.  They swam in and out of the group.  Two large pups were playing a game of "Tail Splash" with Forrest.  He being the kid he is was pretty good at the game to the pups delight.  They would swim by fast and then swish their back flippers so that water would splash from the surface and hit him in the face.  He waited for them to surface and then he would contort in the water and do the same.  He was the last out of the water onto the zodiak because he kept this up for at least half an hour.  he came out of the water with a big grin and the pups surfaced near the zodiak almost begging him to come back and play.  i swear there could have been tears in their eyes.  

Guayaquil, Endeavor and North Seymour - May 15, 16

Forrest and I had arrived the day before in Guayaquil.  Lindblad had set everyone up for one night (two for us)  in the fancy hotel not too far from downtown or from the airport. I have to say they are extremely organized and good at crowd control. We ate dinner at the hotel as they had a German buffet going on.  It was really good.  Unfortunately it was the best meal we had there as the other few times we ate there the food was only so so.  

We had gone into town to eat, etc and just to get a feel for the city.  The next morning we were planning on going back down to Malecon 2000 (the boardwalk) to have a bigger stroll and people watch while we waited for Helen to fly in for the trip.  At about 9 am we got a call in our room and a very bright and excited voice on the other end said, "ready to go?"  It was Helen.  She had actually arrived the day before (evening).  So we ate breakfast and planned our day.  The first thing we did was went to the artesan mercado just off of the the Malecon.  Helen wanted to shop for home and we went along.  We had already done our shopping in Olatambo in the highlands but it was fun to see the market in Guayaquil.  

After the market we headed over to the Malecon 2000, a huge boardwalk with theme areas all along it.  It hugs the river to the sea and it is beautifully kept and very impressive.  Everyone in town seems to use it on the weekend.  We strolled along its bank while Helen took pictures.  Helen is an amazing photographer and there was just so much to take pictures of.  She was like a kid in a candy store.  

We stopped off at this bar in the middle of the Malecon (the only one in that area) to have a drink and a quick bite to eat.  We had walked a while and decided to head back.  Helen and i had booked a spa in the salon.  Afterwards we ate dinner and then sat in the lounge to people watch and guess who was going to be on our boat.  Since it was an early wake up the next day we decided to call it an early evening.

The wake up call was 5 am.  We got packed and ready and down stairs by 6am for the communal breakfast buffet for the Lindblad group.  Again they had it all organized.  Some of us had to leave luggage in storage and we tagged the luggage we were taking.  After finishing our breakfast we gathered in the huge foyer and lounge and waited for our transportation to the airport.  The check out was handled (save any indiscrepencies on any bill) and then the passes were handed out for the transport.  On the bus they gave us the details of what to expect and by the time we got to the airport our luggage had been checked in as well as us.  (They could do that since it was a domestic flight withing Ecuador).  We went through security as a group and waited at the terminal for the shortest time and then loaded onto the plane.  Clockwork and very well planned.  Forrest and I were impressed.  But we just wanted to say anyone who goes on our "Friends and Family" trips dont get any ideas.  :)

The flight was just about two hours and was very pleasant.  As we landed on Baltra Island (the small island where the airport and port is built) we were fumugated and stepped onto biohazzard neutralizer solution.  Oh and inside the plane they opened all the upward luggage holds and fumagated them too.  Odd experience but it was all in name of protecting the endemic flora and fauna.    So when we grow an extra arm in a year we know what was the cause.  

From the airport we took off in buses to the dock.  A very small dock where resident sea lions were lounging all around.  They were our official "welcoming" committee.  Unfortunately they were on an extended break when we were arrived.  There were a few iguanas and Sally-lightfoot Crabs too.  Course at that point we knew them as "oooooo pretty red and blue crab."  We would get "edumacated" fairly quickly.

From the dock we would take our very first ride of MANY on a Zodiak out to the ship, The National Geographic Endeavor.  On these expedition cruises we go to some remote spots because the boat is so small but that means we are landing on lava or sand or something in between.  That means Zodiaks.  Not the usual tenders anyone who has been on a trip with us before are used to.  It makes it fun but there are some a little more technical mount and dismount rules/ procedures.  Nothing grueling just safety.  

Once in the Endeavor we were surprised at our cabins (which were ready and had our luggage waiting) at what a decent size they were.  Forrest and i had two picture windows.  Gorgeous view.  (there were no verandahs).  The ship is very scientific looking from the outside and hence very spartan.  But inside the dining area is large and quite wonderful and there is a forward lounge where our expedition "talks" and "briefings" would occur.  It had a fully stocked bar.  On the upper deck there was a nice sized library and next to that a gym, spa salon and the medical bay.  That opened out to the equipment deck where one gets prepared for a snorkel.  

The bridge was always open to guests and there was a pool (sort of deep wading pool).  The boat was more than comfortable and we had a personal care kit and chocolates awaiting us in our cabins.

Once we got settled we had a quick "briefing" about our voyage and our afternoon.  We were to land on North Seymour Island.  It was to be a "dry" landing and a good walk.  Perfect introductory to our Galapagos "expedition."  We were told we had a choice each "outing" between going with a "Naturalist" groups or the "Photo safari" groups.  The Naturalist groups had naturalist and left first.  they focused on what was being seen and gave a history of the island. they moved a little faster than the photo groups.  the photo groups had both a naturalist and a photographer.  these groups moved slower and were last off the ship.  for the purpose of those interested, taking pictures.  

You see the expedition we signed up for was a special one.  it had four photographers (all contractual and some who worked with National Geographic).  There jobs on board was to help people improve their photography (specifically as it relates to nature photography).  So the classes on board were centered around the hobby of photography.  not everyone on board was there for this purpose.  about half just wanted to see the wildlife.  They photographers, some were naturalists/ scientists themselves.  So you got a lot of expertise from the biological perspective.  

Forrest and I decided to do the "naturalist" group and Helen went with the "photograpy" group.  Neither of knew what to expect when going to the Galapagos.  I guess in my mind i imagined lots of bushes and trees and a lush tropical (equator) environ with flecks of volcanic activity (sort of like a Hawaii).  

the reality is it is very marine, very volcanic and very desertlike.  A lot of the islands have lava scarring, and the biome and climate is very arid.  You have trees and cacti and bushes that are quite clearly drought tolerant.  The soils varied from island to island.  North Seymour was very arid.  Where we landed was fairly flat (most areas you go are on a set nature path just over a mile long and they usually traverse inland and along the shore) and there was evidence of long since happened lava flow.  The shore was rocky and very pumicey (if that is  a word).  

North Seymour was the land of the birds.  Yes there were Iguana and yes there were coastal life like the Sea Lions, etc but in shear terms of numbers we were here to see the famous Blue-footed Booby and the Frigate Birds (Both Great and Magnificent varieties).  Both were in varying degrees of courtship.  The birds on the outer area of the island were definately still going through courtship.  The dances were pretty cool and the fact that we were invading their space had little effect on their behaviour.  I know my biologist or even scientist friends in general will argue that point but i would say that the interference is unusually unnoticeable considering how close we were to EVERYTHING.   As we moved close into the island that is where we started seeing Boobies on eggs and parents with newly hatched chicks.  There was definately a clear demarkation of where the best nest sites were.  And the early bird in this case mates and hatches eggs first.

The Frigate birds (both varieties) were on the bushes around us while the Boobies were ground nesters).  The males had their big red pouches fully inflated.  This was their way of attracting mates.  You will see pictures of the pouches inflated and you will notice that they can fly with these huge swellings under their neck.  

What was amazing about this first encounter for us was the reality that we WERE going to get very close to these animals that were famous and integral to one of the most controversial and yet in terms of academic circles, widely accepted theories on biological diversity. The mechanics are argued but the basic concept seems to be the holy tome for most in the many and varied fields of biology.  And here we were walking with feet, and some inches, of the very species that inspired one of those few, but world shaking "aha!" moments.  Yes other things were at play, etc.  

The animals were not afraid.  They were as the naturalists described "naive."  They ignored us.  Sea Lions were most intrigued and the Lava Lizards (the smallest reptile on the islands) were bold.  But every other animal eyed us nothing more.  We knew at this moment were in a very special place. More so than we had believed and why most of us were drawn here.   The animals had not known to fear humans or large mammals for that matter.  A very rare situation and one where you get a good feeling.  Yes, today, the Galapagos are in danger because of invasive species (we will blog about that later).  There is good energy in the Galapagos and Forrest, and Helen and I were feeling it.  The animals and plants were going to effect us as well as the landscape much more deeply than we had anticipated.  Not like the Machu Pichu trip had but in a very different way.