Day 4 and 5:
Forrest and I woke up early and drove an hour North to the Skookumchuck Narrows. It is also, like the boating trip the day earlier, near Egmont. We hiked to the narrows for about an hour through a nicely kept trail. Forrest had done his research to find out when the "rapids" were at their most impressive. We got there before any big crowds. While we were there a whitewater kayaker had taken up on the rapids through the narrows and was showing off. And by that I mean I was jealous of his spectacular skills. You could tell he had been at it for a while.
The area of the narrows is the only way into the inlet. The waters converge and form several areas of "rapids" where the water is rushing at a tremendous rate. Forget current it is an impressive site and is best described as a rapid. A site seeing boat came buy and took up position in the rapids, turned around and demonstrated how moving completely counter to the water flow one wouldn't get very far. The engine was at max and the boat stood still. It was pretty impressive. I never really understood the force of flood water until I saw how the water moved, rushed, poured like it did there. It is humbling and no amount of description here or the pics that I took would illustrate what is best viewed in person. I took video but have been having difficulty uploading the footage.
After about an hour we headed out of the park and drove back to the hotel. We had scheduled a couple of spa treatments each. They were, needless to say, a great way to end the trip. After the treatments we got back to the treehouse and made dinner in the fully equipped kitchen.
The next day on our way home while riding on the ferry between Landon and Horseshoe Bay we were sad to have to leave such a beautiful and hospitable place. We will most certainly return.
Tuesday, September 25, 2012
Saturday, September 22, 2012
Day 3 part one Princess Louisa Inlet
Day 3:
On day 3 we got up early and headed out to Egmont for our day trip out to Princess Louisa Inlet through Sunshine Coast Tours. Our guide and captain was Bryce. We boarded a flat bottom boat with three other couples and embarked on our adventure North through what was truly spectacular scenery. The mountains sheered off into the water and the clouds literally rolled over the peaks into the valleys, sounds and inlets like mist waterfalls. Everything was on a scale so much larger and out in the open. Not much was missed from any casual observer. Nature is literally at the doorsteps of those who live in the Sunshine Coast.
It takes two hours to get to Princess Louisa Inlet, another half hour to get to the falls. Once there you get an hour and a half to explore. They suggested packing a lunch and we are glad we did as there wasn't much to explore once you got to the falls but sitting next to the fresh water pools that stair-stepped down to the seawater below was so serene. We had a lovely picnic in the sun listening to the cascading water and looking out at massive and pristine mountain slopes.
Most of the valleys and inlets had been carved out by massive glaciers at the end of the last ice age. The result was dramatic as mountains and slopes seem to emerge from the water lacking any gradual incline from water to beach to plain to hill to foothill to peaks.
The park at the foot of the falls was not crowded. There were just three more boats and most of the inhabitants were happy enough on their boats leaving us to area. The only resident is the local park ranger.
After our picnic and little bit of exploration we took off back to Egmont. The ride back was bumpier than our easy ride in but there was new scenery to be in awe of all the way home. We went back the same way but this time we could see great systems flow up and over the peaks spilling into the inlet and valleys connected to it. One pass seemed to be puffing out huge logs of cloud as it made its way through the mountain pass and along the mountain range edge and out over the water.
We were tired once finished but we had good day in one of the more beautiful areas of the world.
Next: We head to our next residence at the Tuwanek Hotel where we stay in the "Tree House" for two nights, rest and do our next adventure the next day at the Skookumchuck Narrows (The Rapids).
On day 3 we got up early and headed out to Egmont for our day trip out to Princess Louisa Inlet through Sunshine Coast Tours. Our guide and captain was Bryce. We boarded a flat bottom boat with three other couples and embarked on our adventure North through what was truly spectacular scenery. The mountains sheered off into the water and the clouds literally rolled over the peaks into the valleys, sounds and inlets like mist waterfalls. Everything was on a scale so much larger and out in the open. Not much was missed from any casual observer. Nature is literally at the doorsteps of those who live in the Sunshine Coast.
It takes two hours to get to Princess Louisa Inlet, another half hour to get to the falls. Once there you get an hour and a half to explore. They suggested packing a lunch and we are glad we did as there wasn't much to explore once you got to the falls but sitting next to the fresh water pools that stair-stepped down to the seawater below was so serene. We had a lovely picnic in the sun listening to the cascading water and looking out at massive and pristine mountain slopes.
Most of the valleys and inlets had been carved out by massive glaciers at the end of the last ice age. The result was dramatic as mountains and slopes seem to emerge from the water lacking any gradual incline from water to beach to plain to hill to foothill to peaks.
The park at the foot of the falls was not crowded. There were just three more boats and most of the inhabitants were happy enough on their boats leaving us to area. The only resident is the local park ranger.
After our picnic and little bit of exploration we took off back to Egmont. The ride back was bumpier than our easy ride in but there was new scenery to be in awe of all the way home. We went back the same way but this time we could see great systems flow up and over the peaks spilling into the inlet and valleys connected to it. One pass seemed to be puffing out huge logs of cloud as it made its way through the mountain pass and along the mountain range edge and out over the water.
We were tired once finished but we had good day in one of the more beautiful areas of the world.
Next: We head to our next residence at the Tuwanek Hotel where we stay in the "Tree House" for two nights, rest and do our next adventure the next day at the Skookumchuck Narrows (The Rapids).
Friday, September 21, 2012
A blog revived and the Sunshine Coast (day 1 and 2)
It's been a while I will admit but I finally realized that just because we aren't on our big world adventure anymore doesn't mean we can't utilize this blog to write about our vacations. So although we have missed a few small trips since our big world adventure, no matter, we start again with this latest trip.
The Sunshine Coast of British Columbia has been somewhere Forrest and I had plans to visit during our year off. We never made it then, but we finally took the time to check it out this weekend. Our trip was from Wednesday, September 19 to Sunday, September 23, 2012.
Day 1: Getting to the Sunshine Coast
Forrest met me after work at his Grandma's house. I had just finished my final day of orientation for Bastyr University. We were on the road North by 4 pm. I goal was to make it to Courtenay, BC on Vancouver Island by midnight. We were through the border by 6 pm and at the ferry terminal in Tsawwassen by 6:45. We were aiming to hit the 8:30 ferry and we did it with time to spare. The trip across to Nanaimo takes two hours and from there another hour to Courtenay. If you have ever been on a BC ferry you know how nice they are. The trip between Tsaw. and Nanaimo is beautiful during the day but of course at night we didn't see much. The boat was barely 1/4 full so we had most of the facilities to ourselves.
There are two general routes to get to the Sunshine Coast. One route via Vancouver Island traveling North on the island and then taking a ferry across to the coast and driving South. The second route is to drive North to Vancouver cross the bridge over to West Vancouver and then up to Horseshoe Bay to take the ferry across to the South end of the Sunshine Coast. As you can guess we did the first trip.
We stayed in Courtenay at a Best Western in town. The hotel was clean and the staff very friendly. The lobby and rooms were updated and nice but the outside visage and inner hallways could do with an updating. But we found it very acceptable, especially after a long evening of travel and as we arrived the hotel staff on duty were very friendly and helpful. The hotel comes with a complimentary breakfast which includes both hot options (egg, sausage, etc) and an extensive continental selection.
Day 2: The Sunshine Coast
The next day we woke up, walked around the town center (little shops) and had a tapas lunch at one of the many restaurants. We stopped to get some supplies as it is the last big town before the Sunshine Coast going this end. We drove to the ferry and caught our first in the afternoon.
The first ferry goes form Courtenay (ferry at Comox) to Powell River and takes 1hr and 20 mins. From there it is a 40 minute drive, along some beautiful coastline, to Saltery Bay then an hour trip across to Earl's Cove. Once there we drove for an hour to get to Madeira to stay Stonewater Motel. Small attached apartment houses that were private. Each room is a suite with a kitchen. They were clean and modern and fully furnished with all the amenities afforded a travel hotel. We had picked up some groceries back in Courtenay so we cooked dinner and relaxed preparing for our big day the next day.
Thoughts:
Though mostly travel days the ferrys went through some beautiful waters. The coast is dramatic with towering mountains with mixed mature to old growth forests, lush valleys and quaint coves and bays. There is wildlife everywhere and everyone we have met has been friendly and welcoming. The Sunshine Coast gets half the rainfall of Vancouver, BC and more sunshine. The temperature of the water tends to be warmer than the average for the sound.
I think one of the most interesting things we noticed is that the Canadians seemed to have made a balance between harvesting the vast resources of the region and preserving its beauty. There is logging and strip mining evident as well as oyster and salmon farms BUT they are sporadic and well managed, with what seems to be real thought and planning behind all the industries. The natural areas dwarf these economic endeavors and everyone with economic stake also take care to preserve the aesthetics and ecology. It seems to be a balance that works and the money that is generated is invested in the infrastructure of the province. Perhaps this is why BC has the best ferry system in the hemisphere and if you have travelled BC roads you know how well kept, clean and well lit they are even in some pretty remote areas.
The beauty and sheer scale of everything that we witnessed the second day will be outdone on Friday, the third day with our boat trip to Princess Louisa Inlet. But more to come on that with our next travel blog addition...
The Sunshine Coast of British Columbia has been somewhere Forrest and I had plans to visit during our year off. We never made it then, but we finally took the time to check it out this weekend. Our trip was from Wednesday, September 19 to Sunday, September 23, 2012.
Day 1: Getting to the Sunshine Coast
Forrest met me after work at his Grandma's house. I had just finished my final day of orientation for Bastyr University. We were on the road North by 4 pm. I goal was to make it to Courtenay, BC on Vancouver Island by midnight. We were through the border by 6 pm and at the ferry terminal in Tsawwassen by 6:45. We were aiming to hit the 8:30 ferry and we did it with time to spare. The trip across to Nanaimo takes two hours and from there another hour to Courtenay. If you have ever been on a BC ferry you know how nice they are. The trip between Tsaw. and Nanaimo is beautiful during the day but of course at night we didn't see much. The boat was barely 1/4 full so we had most of the facilities to ourselves.
There are two general routes to get to the Sunshine Coast. One route via Vancouver Island traveling North on the island and then taking a ferry across to the coast and driving South. The second route is to drive North to Vancouver cross the bridge over to West Vancouver and then up to Horseshoe Bay to take the ferry across to the South end of the Sunshine Coast. As you can guess we did the first trip.
We stayed in Courtenay at a Best Western in town. The hotel was clean and the staff very friendly. The lobby and rooms were updated and nice but the outside visage and inner hallways could do with an updating. But we found it very acceptable, especially after a long evening of travel and as we arrived the hotel staff on duty were very friendly and helpful. The hotel comes with a complimentary breakfast which includes both hot options (egg, sausage, etc) and an extensive continental selection.
Day 2: The Sunshine Coast
The next day we woke up, walked around the town center (little shops) and had a tapas lunch at one of the many restaurants. We stopped to get some supplies as it is the last big town before the Sunshine Coast going this end. We drove to the ferry and caught our first in the afternoon.
The first ferry goes form Courtenay (ferry at Comox) to Powell River and takes 1hr and 20 mins. From there it is a 40 minute drive, along some beautiful coastline, to Saltery Bay then an hour trip across to Earl's Cove. Once there we drove for an hour to get to Madeira to stay Stonewater Motel. Small attached apartment houses that were private. Each room is a suite with a kitchen. They were clean and modern and fully furnished with all the amenities afforded a travel hotel. We had picked up some groceries back in Courtenay so we cooked dinner and relaxed preparing for our big day the next day.
Thoughts:
Though mostly travel days the ferrys went through some beautiful waters. The coast is dramatic with towering mountains with mixed mature to old growth forests, lush valleys and quaint coves and bays. There is wildlife everywhere and everyone we have met has been friendly and welcoming. The Sunshine Coast gets half the rainfall of Vancouver, BC and more sunshine. The temperature of the water tends to be warmer than the average for the sound.
I think one of the most interesting things we noticed is that the Canadians seemed to have made a balance between harvesting the vast resources of the region and preserving its beauty. There is logging and strip mining evident as well as oyster and salmon farms BUT they are sporadic and well managed, with what seems to be real thought and planning behind all the industries. The natural areas dwarf these economic endeavors and everyone with economic stake also take care to preserve the aesthetics and ecology. It seems to be a balance that works and the money that is generated is invested in the infrastructure of the province. Perhaps this is why BC has the best ferry system in the hemisphere and if you have travelled BC roads you know how well kept, clean and well lit they are even in some pretty remote areas.
The beauty and sheer scale of everything that we witnessed the second day will be outdone on Friday, the third day with our boat trip to Princess Louisa Inlet. But more to come on that with our next travel blog addition...
Friday, December 23, 2011
Catch up
So reviewing this blog i realized we did not finish talking about all the places we visited in Europe AFTER August 30, 2009. For the next three months we travelled by boat, train, plane and automobile. Besides several stops in Greece including Santorini, Mykonos and Delos we travelled to Istanbul, Ephesus, Split, Dubrovnik, Sicily, the ruins of Pompeii, Rome, Tuscany, and finally Barcelona.
We loved Barcelona and we were there for a week before carrying on our journey by train across Europe. Our first stop after Barcelona was Marseille and neighboring Provence for two weeks. Then train to Frankfurt to visit a dear friend. After Frankfurt, Prague and Budapest. From there we took the train to Austria to visit my Aunt and her family at their Bed and Breakfast in Bad Ischl. They have a lovely bed and breakfast called Alpine Meadows. After a week there we took off for home routed through Ireland.
It was a great trip. We really enjoyed seeing Europe.
And so ended our year abroad. Terrible recap but I felt it needed closure.
We loved Barcelona and we were there for a week before carrying on our journey by train across Europe. Our first stop after Barcelona was Marseille and neighboring Provence for two weeks. Then train to Frankfurt to visit a dear friend. After Frankfurt, Prague and Budapest. From there we took the train to Austria to visit my Aunt and her family at their Bed and Breakfast in Bad Ischl. They have a lovely bed and breakfast called Alpine Meadows. After a week there we took off for home routed through Ireland.
It was a great trip. We really enjoyed seeing Europe.
And so ended our year abroad. Terrible recap but I felt it needed closure.
Sunday, August 30, 2009
The hospitality of the Greek people was matched by the hospitality of the Turks. Just pulling into Istanbul was pretty great. It is an impressive city and the prayer towers(sorry I don’t remember the word) dominated the skyline as did a few mosques. The two most prominent being the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia. Our boat pulled into the Asian side of the city. Once off the boat (we arrived 4pm) we headed over to the grand palace of the Ottoman Emperors. A massive complex that was pretty self-sufficient in its day. There were some impressive displays in some of the buildings or chambers of some of the Emperors’ personal items and even presentations and gifts that the heads of other states sent to various Emperors.
We went and ate dinner then headed out at knight. One of friends was hungry and so he wanted to have a snack. We pulled up to a local stand and ate. It was kebab (lamb) on a hoagie roll and it was seasoned really nice. It had a good bite. Earlier that afternoon we had heard one of the calls to prayer. Every tower around us, in turn, began the call to prayer. They were almost choreographed in their precise intervals but they all created a massive resonance and chorus of voices. It was a very beautiful sound and spiritual experience.
The next day we woke up and headed into the city via the local mass transit (which was very efficient and quite good). We had a big itinerary that day and so we visited the Blue Mosque, the Hagia Sofia, the Cistern and the Grand Bazaar.
The Blue Mosque is a working mosque so we needed to pay attention to some very basic rules. No shoes, no flashes from cameras (although no pictures were the actual rules) etc. Once inside it was an impressive site of basilicas and columns. Dome after dome held the impressive structure up.
Next we went to the Hagia Sofia. Yet another impressive site. The Hagia Sofia was the central basilica for the Byzantines when the city was called Constantinople. When the Ottomans conquered the city they turned it into a mosque. Then they built the Blue Mosque. The Ottomans, though not perfect, followed the tenets of Islam being very tolerant of their Christian and Jewish subjects. They uncovered some of the old mosaics that had been covered, as no images of animal or human may be displayed in their houses of worship, and turned it back into a place where its many Christian subjects could still visit (and foreign visitors). You could feel how holy the site was and the mosaics that had been uncovered were beautiful. We were allowed to take photos in the church and we got some great ones of the mosaics.
Next we saw the Cistern. It is an underground spring, fairly large in scale. Their were walkways in between the massive columns that kept the “cave” ceiling up. The cistern was the main source of water (storage) for the city. Photos don’t do the scale of the place justice.
Once finished with our site seeing it was off to lunch where we had a great lamb kebab meal just off the bazaar. The people are so friendly. Then it was off to the market. We all imagined the market and its vendors to be very aggressive. There was an instance or two but for the most part the whole experience was benign. It was still fun and it had to be the largest market I have ever seen. It went on for ever. It was mostly enclosed and there were nicer sections than others.
After the Grand Bazaar it was back to the ship. We had so much fun and really loved the Turkish people in Istanbul. A great experience. We were glad we had an overnight there (the ship).
We went and ate dinner then headed out at knight. One of friends was hungry and so he wanted to have a snack. We pulled up to a local stand and ate. It was kebab (lamb) on a hoagie roll and it was seasoned really nice. It had a good bite. Earlier that afternoon we had heard one of the calls to prayer. Every tower around us, in turn, began the call to prayer. They were almost choreographed in their precise intervals but they all created a massive resonance and chorus of voices. It was a very beautiful sound and spiritual experience.
The next day we woke up and headed into the city via the local mass transit (which was very efficient and quite good). We had a big itinerary that day and so we visited the Blue Mosque, the Hagia Sofia, the Cistern and the Grand Bazaar.
The Blue Mosque is a working mosque so we needed to pay attention to some very basic rules. No shoes, no flashes from cameras (although no pictures were the actual rules) etc. Once inside it was an impressive site of basilicas and columns. Dome after dome held the impressive structure up.
Next we went to the Hagia Sofia. Yet another impressive site. The Hagia Sofia was the central basilica for the Byzantines when the city was called Constantinople. When the Ottomans conquered the city they turned it into a mosque. Then they built the Blue Mosque. The Ottomans, though not perfect, followed the tenets of Islam being very tolerant of their Christian and Jewish subjects. They uncovered some of the old mosaics that had been covered, as no images of animal or human may be displayed in their houses of worship, and turned it back into a place where its many Christian subjects could still visit (and foreign visitors). You could feel how holy the site was and the mosaics that had been uncovered were beautiful. We were allowed to take photos in the church and we got some great ones of the mosaics.
Next we saw the Cistern. It is an underground spring, fairly large in scale. Their were walkways in between the massive columns that kept the “cave” ceiling up. The cistern was the main source of water (storage) for the city. Photos don’t do the scale of the place justice.
Once finished with our site seeing it was off to lunch where we had a great lamb kebab meal just off the bazaar. The people are so friendly. Then it was off to the market. We all imagined the market and its vendors to be very aggressive. There was an instance or two but for the most part the whole experience was benign. It was still fun and it had to be the largest market I have ever seen. It went on for ever. It was mostly enclosed and there were nicer sections than others.
After the Grand Bazaar it was back to the ship. We had so much fun and really loved the Turkish people in Istanbul. A great experience. We were glad we had an overnight there (the ship).
Split, Croatia, Sea Day, and Athens, Greece
The first day after sailing was beautiful. The seas were calm and the ship itself has a different personality to the last one. People do not seem as high strung as the last one. Though I suppose we do not have the pressure of an extended length cruise to contend with and add to people’s temperment. Split was larger than we expected and you could see Diocletian’s Palace from the port and it was an impressive site against the backdrop of the city. It was at one point the city itself. All life happened within the walls of the palatial grounds. The area at one time being the estate of the Emperor Diocletius. Over the years the town around it developed and subsequent eras added or changed the original building, adding Medieval architecture and modern buildings to the grounds.
The tour was not up to par but it was still an enjoyable day. We had one day at sea which was uneventful. I will say that this seems like a very efficiently run ship. Apart from everybody’s key cards not working the first day there really haven’t been any problems. There have been a few notable cutbacks since our last cruise. The first and most noticeable is that cabin stewards have had a doubling of their duties. So where you are able to talk and get to know your steward, now they have very little time. It is the same way in the Lido dining room. They have also gotten rid of trays in the Lido. I never liked the trays but I have to say where before you could get your food in one run now it takes a few more.
The next day we got to Athens. We decided to get up early to beat the crowds and we did a tremendous job. When we got there only a couple buses from one other ship were there. We got right into the Acropolis. On the way as we turned a corner the Acroplis came into view. The hills and the Temple complex (actually a series of complexes) came into view. The sun lit it up and it was an impressive site that commanded itself as the center of the city. Athens was built up all around it and as we ascended the MANY steps the city winded all around hills and valleys in and around the city.
The Acropolis is made up of several temples most dedicated to one or more visages of Athena. They were under renovation and so there was a lot of scaffolding around and on the buildings. The whole site was just breathtaking and fairly preserved. We all got a lot great pictures. Down the slopes of the Acropolis hill we went to see other sites like the Temple of Zeus, the old market place, etc. The Athenians were wonderful. We had our first Gyro in Greece there and it was awesome. The pita was grilled and the lamb was so tender and seasoned perfectly and on it was just about the best Tzatziki sauce I have ever tasted. Greek is my favorite back home but I can honestly say I haven’t had anything that came close to this.
Venice 23 & 24
Forrest and I got an early start to board the ship. We woke up, ate breakfast by the canal one last time and then finished packing to get going before the heat got too overwhelming.
We each had two very bags (one pull along and one back pack) and one carry on each. It was a long haul but we went on one of the water buses. We had hoped it wouldn’t be crowded on the run we took , that early but it was jammed pack. Here we were with all our luggage and people elbow to elbow.
We got out alright and we found the bus area where shuttles were being ran to where embarkation begins with the boat. By the time we got to the Oosterdam we were definitely tired. The embarkation process was not perfect but nothing horrendous happended. We were definitely ready to be on board.
After check in and unpacking we caught up with our friends Randall and Alberto. We met them on the last cruise (South Pacific). Randall is the Piano Singer in the Piano bar. They are two great guys and we had a lot of fun with them on the last cruise. We were very excited to hear that they were going to be on this ship.
The next day we had breakfast with our friends and then went into town again. We decided to take the water bus to the Rialto bridge and then walk to Piazelle San Mark. This time we lined up in the very long line to see Saint Mark’s Basilica. It was beautiful and very worth the line. It was gilded gold with amazing mosaics and the architecture was stunning and impressive. This structure though not the tallest was no less impressive in its size but also the number domes and arches employed. Afterwards we started heading home and we bumped into our friends. We decided to go to lunch with them. We all began the long trek home.
At 5pm was the sail away and we saw parts of Venice we had not had the opportunity to see . The Oosterdam is a very large ship and it dwarfed all the other vessels around it and the city skyline which comprised mostly of bell towers.
Saturday, August 22, 2009
Day four - Academia Art Museum and Mureno
Today we got up earlier and headed out right after breakfast. First stop was the Academia Art Museum to see a great collection of Renaissance Art. Among the more famous pictures (for those Art History 101 buffs) was Bellini's La Pieta and the picture of St George and Dragon.
After the museum we decided to take a water bus over to the island town of Mureno. This is the birthplace of Venetian Glass making. A quick 15 minute ride into the main lagoon, the town of Mureno has its own style and energy. Glass shops are even more prevalent and the glass factories sizable. Artists from around Europe and the world practice their trade and hone the special Venetian style of glass work (including glass blowing). We are glass enthusiasts and it was sheer torture not to buy. If you are looking for that spectacular, ornate, but tasteful chandalier for your foyer, formal bedroom or dining room this is the place to look. The town is split in two buy a main canal. There is public art (beautiful, unique and some bizarrely puzzling) everywhere. A decidely more subtle city in terms of its facades and buildings it is a quaint hide away and we both fell in love with its charm. Though for us it would be hell as well with so much beautiful glass work.
It was our intention to tour the glass museums and workshops but while eating both of us began feeling the heat in a bad way. Forrest even passed out at the dinner table. He was alright and it only lasted briend time but scary nonetheless.
Still the boat ride back afforded us another look at this gem of a town on the outer islands.
Day Three - Doge's Palace Plaza San Marco
We got up extra early today to beat the crowds at the Plaza San Marco. It was a particularly hot today and it was only morning. By the time we finished at the Doge's palace the weather was 70% humidity and at least 90 degrees. We were in no mood to walk back so we too a water bus. The bussing system (sort of like a foot passenger ferry service) is very regular and efficient. There really isnt much of wait if you miss a bus. In fact considering the only transportation options you have are either by boat (gondola, water taxi, or water bus) or walking the city does a great job moving people around once they get here (which is via many modes typical for any city.).
Literally hundreds of thousands of tourists come here everyday and that may seem far-fetched and a little overwhelming but the only real places that are impacted are are Plaza San Marco.
the Doge's palace was pretty spectacular. The seat of the Venetian power the palace is nothing short of massive. Venice was a sea-bourne empire and its fleets were unmatched in the world for many years until the Portuguese infused its navy with wealth from the Far East through its sea routes in the 15th century and broke Venice's overland monopoly.
Venice was ruled by its wealthiest families (2,000). Each of whom had a say in the Great Council. It was this council who elected the Senate and special committees that governed the Empire, saw to civil duties and schemed over foreign policy. The Great Halls and Council rooms were huge and reflected this representation. The militia armory was in this building and the magistrate court rooms. A Republic it afforded its citizens rich and poor many luxuries and rights. The branches of the government had a checks and balances system, though not perfect, and often trumped by the Great Council. The palace was opulent and large and grandiose befitting the central ruling place of one of the richest and influential powers of the middle-ages and renaissance.
It was under renovation on its facade and in a lot of the salons. there was still a lot to see and the detail everywhere was incredible. It was particulary very warm and as the day got on the palace became more crowded. We made it from the magistrate area over to the prison via the Bridge of Sighs. It was here enemies of the state and criminals (civil and political)passed on the way from the magistrate to the prison. A literal dungeon and maze of tight and claustrophobic cells the prison was large. It is here that Cassanova spent many a day because of his many "exploits."
After the heat became too unbearable we headed off back to the hotel to cool off. We decided to buy a three day pass on the water buses. It turned out to be a good decision as when we got on the water there was cool marine breeze. We had not got down the Grand Canal yet and so it was a treat to ride up it. We passed under the Rialto bridge and made our way past some beautiful palaces, museums, halls, and theaters as well as typical homes all along the Grand Canal.
By the time we got home we were drenched from the humidity. We showered off and settled to get cool and then headed out for an early dinner, gelato and night stroll over to the Plaza Roma.
A delightful day in a beautiful and romantic city.
Thursday, August 20, 2009
Day Two - Our first day exploring Venice
Today we woke up early and enjoyed breakfast next to the canal. The hotel we are staying is called Ca’Dagrossa and offers breakfast in the morning. It’s front façade faces the Canal di Canarregio and is not far from the mouth of it. The hotel is not in the tourist zone but sits in one of the city’s more historical areas, Cannaregio.
Today Canneregio is mostly residential and hosts a few colleges. More a central focus for those who take long holidays for weeks at a time, living in the city, the odd day travelling tourists still find their way. This area of the city hosts some very important historical landmarks. Among them is Ghetto Nuovo. Today, still a residential area and home to some of the remaining Venetian Jewish community, Ghetto Nuovo was set aside and inhabited by Spanish Jews escaping the Spanish Inquisition. Venice welcomed the Spanish Jewish community that emigrated there as they brought with them great wealth and excellent craftmanship. I had not realized that the Venetians funded their contributions to the Renaissance and their unequaled maritime trade networks through these influential Jewish families.
The Venetian Republic passed laws that allowed the new Venetian citizens to “invest” (the term lend is more commonly used) in Venetian trade enterprises and become patrons of the artworks but also Jewish artisans and craftsmen were commissioned to work on many public and private artworks, including some of the most famous Venetian churches. But the price of course was steep. Venetian Jews were not allowed to live beyond the Ghetto Nuovo boundary and on Venetian holidays (all Christian based) they were not allowed out of their homes.
Of course during the Mussolini years the ghetto became even more ominous and walls were put up to establish a more permanent boundary and turn the ghetto into a prison/ camp. Some of that history remains too.
We also walked through the streets, crossing many bridges to walk towards the Ponte Rialto. The Canal Grande was huge and there was a great deal of shipping that passes through it as one might imagine. From tiny rental speedboats to gondolas to freight barges and bigger. The day was unbearably hot and so we tried to stay out of the main thoroughfares. We walked down narrow sidestreets and alleys to traverse our way to the Plaza San Marco. The markets and small stores and fashion boutiques lined the outskirts of the plaza but itself was a large area packed with tourists. The day we went was considered a light day. It was crowded but nothing like the stories we had heard about where every path in to the plaza was a line and shoulder to shoulder. The Ducal Palace and Saint Marks Basilica was more beautiful than I imagined and movies do not do the whole plaza justice. The detail and opulence surpassed imagination. The use of marble alone was extensive and beautiful.
When you see pictures and movies you remember only the bright colors used and you half expect it to be a little overwhelming and gaudy. The opposite is true. Everything is on a scale that makes it all fit together and belong. The city is immaculate, the streets, the buildings, everything is clean. The buildings and bridges have an old rustic look but they are well kept.
For our first day it was an impressive walk and though it was super humid and very warm we enjoyed our stroll.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)