The hospitality of the Greek people was matched by the hospitality of the Turks. Just pulling into Istanbul was pretty great. It is an impressive city and the prayer towers(sorry I don’t remember the word) dominated the skyline as did a few mosques. The two most prominent being the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia. Our boat pulled into the Asian side of the city. Once off the boat (we arrived 4pm) we headed over to the grand palace of the Ottoman Emperors. A massive complex that was pretty self-sufficient in its day. There were some impressive displays in some of the buildings or chambers of some of the Emperors’ personal items and even presentations and gifts that the heads of other states sent to various Emperors.

We went and ate dinner then headed out at knight. One of friends was hungry and so he wanted to have a snack. We pulled up to a local stand and ate. It was kebab (lamb) on a hoagie roll and it was seasoned really nice. It had a good bite. Earlier that afternoon we had heard one of the calls to prayer. Every tower around us, in turn, began the call to prayer. They were almost choreographed in their precise intervals but they all created a massive resonance and chorus of voices. It was a very beautiful sound and spiritual experience.

The next day we woke up and headed into the city via the local mass transit (which was very efficient and quite good). We had a big itinerary that day and so we visited the Blue Mosque, the Hagia Sofia, the Cistern and the Grand Bazaar.

The Blue Mosque is a working mosque so we needed to pay attention to some very basic rules. No shoes, no flashes from cameras (although no pictures were the actual rules) etc. Once inside it was an impressive site of basilicas and columns. Dome after dome held the impressive structure up.

Next we went to the Hagia Sofia. Yet another impressive site. The Hagia Sofia was the central basilica for the Byzantines when the city was called Constantinople. When the Ottomans conquered the city they turned it into a mosque. Then they built the Blue Mosque. The Ottomans, though not perfect, followed the tenets of Islam being very tolerant of their Christian and Jewish subjects. They uncovered some of the old mosaics that had been covered, as no images of animal or human may be displayed in their houses of worship, and turned it back into a place where its many Christian subjects could still visit (and foreign visitors). You could feel how holy the site was and the mosaics that had been uncovered were beautiful. We were allowed to take photos in the church and we got some great ones of the mosaics.

Next we saw the Cistern. It is an underground spring, fairly large in scale. Their were walkways in between the massive columns that kept the “cave” ceiling up. The cistern was the main source of water (storage) for the city. Photos don’t do the scale of the place justice.

Once finished with our site seeing it was off to lunch where we had a great lamb kebab meal just off the bazaar. The people are so friendly. Then it was off to the market. We all imagined the market and its vendors to be very aggressive. There was an instance or two but for the most part the whole experience was benign. It was still fun and it had to be the largest market I have ever seen. It went on for ever. It was mostly enclosed and there were nicer sections than others.

After the Grand Bazaar it was back to the ship. We had so much fun and really loved the Turkish people in Istanbul. A great experience. We were glad we had an overnight there (the ship).

Split, Croatia, Sea Day, and Athens, Greece

The first day after sailing was beautiful. The seas were calm and the ship itself has a different personality to the last one. People do not seem as high strung as the last one. Though I suppose we do not have the pressure of an extended length cruise to contend with and add to people’s temperment. Split was larger than we expected and you could see Diocletian’s Palace from the port and it was an impressive site against the backdrop of the city. It was at one point the city itself. All life happened within the walls of the palatial grounds. The area at one time being the estate of the Emperor Diocletius. Over the years the town around it developed and subsequent eras added or changed the original building, adding Medieval architecture and modern buildings to the grounds.

The tour was not up to par but it was still an enjoyable day. We had one day at sea which was uneventful. I will say that this seems like a very efficiently run ship. Apart from everybody’s key cards not working the first day there really haven’t been any problems. There have been a few notable cutbacks since our last cruise. The first and most noticeable is that cabin stewards have had a doubling of their duties. So where you are able to talk and get to know your steward, now they have very little time. It is the same way in the Lido dining room. They have also gotten rid of trays in the Lido. I never liked the trays but I have to say where before you could get your food in one run now it takes a few more.

The next day we got to Athens. We decided to get up early to beat the crowds and we did a tremendous job. When we got there only a couple buses from one other ship were there. We got right into the Acropolis. On the way as we turned a corner the Acroplis came into view. The hills and the Temple complex (actually a series of complexes) came into view. The sun lit it up and it was an impressive site that commanded itself as the center of the city. Athens was built up all around it and as we ascended the MANY steps the city winded all around hills and valleys in and around the city.

The Acropolis is made up of several temples most dedicated to one or more visages of Athena. They were under renovation and so there was a lot of scaffolding around and on the buildings. The whole site was just breathtaking and fairly preserved. We all got a lot great pictures. Down the slopes of the Acropolis hill we went to see other sites like the Temple of Zeus, the old market place, etc. The Athenians were wonderful. We had our first Gyro in Greece there and it was awesome. The pita was grilled and the lamb was so tender and seasoned perfectly and on it was just about the best Tzatziki sauce I have ever tasted. Greek is my favorite back home but I can honestly say I haven’t had anything that came close to this.

Venice 23 & 24

Forrest and I got an early start to board the ship. We woke up, ate breakfast by the canal one last time and then finished packing to get going before the heat got too overwhelming.

We each had two very bags (one pull along and one back pack) and one carry on each. It was a long haul but we went on one of the water buses. We had hoped it wouldn’t be crowded on the run we took , that early but it was jammed pack. Here we were with all our luggage and people elbow to elbow.

We got out alright and we found the bus area where shuttles were being ran to where embarkation begins with the boat. By the time we got to the Oosterdam we were definitely tired. The embarkation process was not perfect but nothing horrendous happended. We were definitely ready to be on board.

After check in and unpacking we caught up with our friends Randall and Alberto. We met them on the last cruise (South Pacific). Randall is the Piano Singer in the Piano bar. They are two great guys and we had a lot of fun with them on the last cruise. We were very excited to hear that they were going to be on this ship.

The next day we had breakfast with our friends and then went into town again. We decided to take the water bus to the Rialto bridge and then walk to Piazelle San Mark. This time we lined up in the very long line to see Saint Mark’s Basilica. It was beautiful and very worth the line. It was gilded gold with amazing mosaics and the architecture was stunning and impressive. This structure though not the tallest was no less impressive in its size but also the number domes and arches employed. Afterwards we started heading home and we bumped into our friends. We decided to go to lunch with them. We all began the long trek home.

At 5pm was the sail away and we saw parts of Venice we had not had the opportunity to see . The Oosterdam is a very large ship and it dwarfed all the other vessels around it and the city skyline which comprised mostly of bell towers.

Day four - Academia Art Museum and Mureno

Today we got up earlier and headed out right after breakfast. First stop was the Academia Art Museum to see a great collection of Renaissance Art. Among the more famous pictures (for those Art History 101 buffs) was Bellini's La Pieta and the picture of St George and Dragon.

After the museum we decided to take a water bus over to the island town of Mureno. This is the birthplace of Venetian Glass making. A quick 15 minute ride into the main lagoon, the town of Mureno has its own style and energy. Glass shops are even more prevalent and the glass factories sizable. Artists from around Europe and the world practice their trade and hone the special Venetian style of glass work (including glass blowing). We are glass enthusiasts and it was sheer torture not to buy. If you are looking for that spectacular, ornate, but tasteful chandalier for your foyer, formal bedroom or dining room this is the place to look. The town is split in two buy a main canal. There is public art (beautiful, unique and some bizarrely puzzling) everywhere. A decidely more subtle city in terms of its facades and buildings it is a quaint hide away and we both fell in love with its charm. Though for us it would be hell as well with so much beautiful glass work.

It was our intention to tour the glass museums and workshops but while eating both of us began feeling the heat in a bad way. Forrest even passed out at the dinner table. He was alright and it only lasted briend time but scary nonetheless.

Still the boat ride back afforded us another look at this gem of a town on the outer islands.

Day Three - Doge's Palace Plaza San Marco

We got up extra early today to beat the crowds at the Plaza San Marco. It was a particularly hot today and it was only morning. By the time we finished at the Doge's palace the weather was 70% humidity and at least 90 degrees. We were in no mood to walk back so we too a water bus. The bussing system (sort of like a foot passenger ferry service) is very regular and efficient. There really isnt much of wait if you miss a bus. In fact considering the only transportation options you have are either by boat (gondola, water taxi, or water bus) or walking the city does a great job moving people around once they get here (which is via many modes typical for any city.).

Literally hundreds of thousands of tourists come here everyday and that may seem far-fetched and a little overwhelming but the only real places that are impacted are are Plaza San Marco.

the Doge's palace was pretty spectacular. The seat of the Venetian power the palace is nothing short of massive. Venice was a sea-bourne empire and its fleets were unmatched in the world for many years until the Portuguese infused its navy with wealth from the Far East through its sea routes in the 15th century and broke Venice's overland monopoly.

Venice was ruled by its wealthiest families (2,000). Each of whom had a say in the Great Council. It was this council who elected the Senate and special committees that governed the Empire, saw to civil duties and schemed over foreign policy. The Great Halls and Council rooms were huge and reflected this representation. The militia armory was in this building and the magistrate court rooms. A Republic it afforded its citizens rich and poor many luxuries and rights. The branches of the government had a checks and balances system, though not perfect, and often trumped by the Great Council. The palace was opulent and large and grandiose befitting the central ruling place of one of the richest and influential powers of the middle-ages and renaissance.

It was under renovation on its facade and in a lot of the salons. there was still a lot to see and the detail everywhere was incredible. It was particulary very warm and as the day got on the palace became more crowded. We made it from the magistrate area over to the prison via the Bridge of Sighs. It was here enemies of the state and criminals (civil and political)passed on the way from the magistrate to the prison. A literal dungeon and maze of tight and claustrophobic cells the prison was large. It is here that Cassanova spent many a day because of his many "exploits."

After the heat became too unbearable we headed off back to the hotel to cool off. We decided to buy a three day pass on the water buses. It turned out to be a good decision as when we got on the water there was cool marine breeze. We had not got down the Grand Canal yet and so it was a treat to ride up it. We passed under the Rialto bridge and made our way past some beautiful palaces, museums, halls, and theaters as well as typical homes all along the Grand Canal.

By the time we got home we were drenched from the humidity. We showered off and settled to get cool and then headed out for an early dinner, gelato and night stroll over to the Plaza Roma.

A delightful day in a beautiful and romantic city.

Day Two - Our first day exploring Venice

Today we woke up early and enjoyed breakfast next to the canal. The hotel we are staying is called Ca’Dagrossa and offers breakfast in the morning. It’s front façade faces the Canal di Canarregio and is not far from the mouth of it. The hotel is not in the tourist zone but sits in one of the city’s more historical areas, Cannaregio.

Today Canneregio is mostly residential and hosts a few colleges. More a central focus for those who take long holidays for weeks at a time, living in the city, the odd day travelling tourists still find their way. This area of the city hosts some very important historical landmarks. Among them is Ghetto Nuovo. Today, still a residential area and home to some of the remaining Venetian Jewish community, Ghetto Nuovo was set aside and inhabited by Spanish Jews escaping the Spanish Inquisition. Venice welcomed the Spanish Jewish community that emigrated there as they brought with them great wealth and excellent craftmanship. I had not realized that the Venetians funded their contributions to the Renaissance and their unequaled maritime trade networks through these influential Jewish families.

The Venetian Republic passed laws that allowed the new Venetian citizens to “invest” (the term lend is more commonly used) in Venetian trade enterprises and become patrons of the artworks but also Jewish artisans and craftsmen were commissioned to work on many public and private artworks, including some of the most famous Venetian churches. But the price of course was steep. Venetian Jews were not allowed to live beyond the Ghetto Nuovo boundary and on Venetian holidays (all Christian based) they were not allowed out of their homes.

Of course during the Mussolini years the ghetto became even more ominous and walls were put up to establish a more permanent boundary and turn the ghetto into a prison/ camp. Some of that history remains too.

We also walked through the streets, crossing many bridges to walk towards the Ponte Rialto. The Canal Grande was huge and there was a great deal of shipping that passes through it as one might imagine. From tiny rental speedboats to gondolas to freight barges and bigger. The day was unbearably hot and so we tried to stay out of the main thoroughfares. We walked down narrow sidestreets and alleys to traverse our way to the Plaza San Marco. The markets and small stores and fashion boutiques lined the outskirts of the plaza but itself was a large area packed with tourists. The day we went was considered a light day. It was crowded but nothing like the stories we had heard about where every path in to the plaza was a line and shoulder to shoulder. The Ducal Palace and Saint Marks Basilica was more beautiful than I imagined and movies do not do the whole plaza justice. The detail and opulence surpassed imagination. The use of marble alone was extensive and beautiful.

When you see pictures and movies you remember only the bright colors used and you half expect it to be a little overwhelming and gaudy. The opposite is true. Everything is on a scale that makes it all fit together and belong. The city is immaculate, the streets, the buildings, everything is clean. The buildings and bridges have an old rustic look but they are well kept.

For our first day it was an impressive walk and though it was super humid and very warm we enjoyed our stroll.

August 18 and 19: Getting to Venice

We took off from Seattle on British Airways heading to Venice via London. We left in the evening o August 18. The flight itself was not a long as we expected but the seats were worse than we imagined. We flew British Airway’s equivalent to Economy. The seats were tighter than I remember. Much more cramped. I think it was the first time I had flown with them since they introduced their intermediate seating level, which is World Traveller Plus. It’s a high-breed between the economy class and business class. Still the service was British Airways and the food very good. The plane was unusually warm, especially considering we flew over the North Pole to reach London. That route can get very cold at night. Not the case thise time. It was very close. I had noticed that all the individual air nozzles (per seat) were closed up. Not that I use them (I usually shut them off because they recycle the air) .

We arrived in London in good time and as usual the British Airways terminal (these days the brand new Heathrow Terminal 5) was painless to pass through. We caught the National Express bus line to Gatwick Airport, which was a pretty good transfer option. You catch it right outside of the Terminal 5 Arrivals entrance. Just before you leave the building there is a kiosk to purchase your bus pass. It takes about 40 minutes to get to Gatwick Airport’s North Terminal from Heathrow Terminal 5.

The weather was fairly warm for England and the bus air system didn’t seem to work either. But the transfer was very good and we drug our luggage (a lot as usual) off the bus to get in line to check in for our flight to Venice. I had gotten overheated again. But by the time we arrived at the Departures gate after grabbin a bite to eat and stopping by the Priority Pass Lounge to cool down, we were both good as new.

To our great surprise we entered the plane to see the seats were in the older configuration. There was tons of leg room and the seats were reasonably wide. At this point we were both exhausted and our thermostats were screwed up. But at least the plane was cooler.

I was not in the aisle seat but I could see the landscape below. Once we were over the Continental Europe we flew over hundreds of miles of flat plain and farmland. The farmland turned to hills and then all of a sudden of the starboard side of the plane the Alps appeared. I have flown over many mountain ranges and each of them before, that first time, had taken my breath away. This time was no different. They were nothing less than spectacular.

The flight was short and we arrived in Marco Polo Airport on time. The airport is not very big but it was very efficient and immigration and customs was relatively easy. We were both so hungry we stopped and got some food. We ate our first pizza (Forrest had something similar to a calzone). The crust was very thin (Forrest’s very thin bread) and neither was messy with only the freshest of toppings and ingredients. They were SOOOOO good and very light but satisfying.

From there we got our tickets for the Water Bus. We were a little confused and of course neither of us knew even elementary Italian even though we had promised ourselves to learn that asap. We got on the right line and were dropped off at the correct stop. The city is an island just off the coast and is a labyrinth of canals and waterways. Venice’s distinct character and famous buildings were intact and recognizable, even to two weary travelers such as ourselves and at night.

The city was extremely humid. But the magic of Venice hit us and we were more enthralled with its beauty at night to worry. From the bus stop there was just a short walk to the hotel which was lit up at night along the dark canal. The owner was waiting for us and checked us in despite our lack of Italian and his limited English. But then hospitality and gratitude are languages on their own and can be universal.

We got in our room, let everyone know we arrived and crashed after a long couple of days of travel.

Project Europa

Well tomorrow, August 18 we leave for Europe. The trip was originally on our list of things to do when we conceived of travelling but our travels have given us surprises, as has the last year and with that we were distracted with life and other travels to decide whether or not to consider doing it.

I won't speak for Forrest but Buenos Aires was the catalyst for me to want us to go to Europe and do a trip that will be a good finale for the last many months that turned out to be, surprisingly a year of travel. We will be adding to the blog this trip as before and stand by for more pictures too.

I took the lead on organizing this trip, as Forrest has done the previous ones. But of course he isnt good at standing idly by and so what started out as a solo project has become a joint project that we are very excited to enjoy.

Tomorrow we leave for Venice via London on British Airways. After five days in Venice we will travel by Holland America's Oosterdam for 24 days to ports throughout the Adriatic and Mediterranean finishing in Barcelona. We shall stay in Barcelona for 4 days then travel by train to Marseille. It is there where we will stay for two weeks before journeying to Hungary, the Czech Republic and Austria.

Buenos Aires June 3 to July 23

Since the day we arrived in Buenos Aires we fell in love with the city and the Portenos (people who live in Buenos Aires). The city is so impressive, full of life and energy. Standing in the middle of the city it isn't difficult to see that it has its own flavor in every conceivable way but especially in its architecture. Most would say that Buenos Aires is reminiscent of Paris, Rome and Barecelona with the density and vibe of Manhattan. It is that fact, its unique tapestry of architecture, vision and energy that makes Buenos Aires its own unique city with its own bragging rights. To be compared as "The Paris, Manhattan, etc of South America" is to really not do it justice. Portenos are proud of their heritage, their particular form of Spanish, and their city. That is resoundingly evident everyday.

We met some wonderful people while staying in the city for two months but even the people in the street, in random encounters, were warm, helpful and friendly. Some of our favorite places to visit were the markets in Plaza Francia and in San Telmo on the weekend. Recoleta cemetary was breathtaking with its city-like grid of mausoleums and "streets.' We enjoyed the Parillas, and cafes, medialunas in the afternoon (or empanadas), and late night meals.

In BA one typically doesn't eat before 10, go out to a bar before midnight (except for happy hour before dinner) or dance before 3 am. Portenos lovingly refer to themselves as vampires and the city could definately compete with Manhattan as the city that never sleeps.

And the shopping... well lets just say if you love leather goods (bags, shoes, coats, etc) no where is as inexpensive for some of the highest quality, unique styles, and reasonable priced (well for Europeans and those of us from North America). In fact most things were at least half the price of those back home.

To leave it we were sad. We wish we had stayed, an opinion shared by a friend who visited us, Sally. I wish we had better blogged our experiences in BA but take that as how much we loved the city and really immersed ourselves to the point we had no time to blog. If you get a chance go. We really don't think you will regret it.

Buenos Aires May 28 to June 2

Mom and Gram arrived.  Forrest has developed a cold, probably from a weakened immune due to the strong allergic reaction to the mold from the other apartment.  So we ran around trying to get him stuff to make him fight it.  We have gone grocery shopping and are settling in more.  

Mom and Gram arrived this morning after travelling a full day.  They were visibly tired but were in good spirits and wanted to go do something.  We were heading into downtown to American Express and so they went with us riding the Subway.  Afterwards we went grocery shopping again to cook in house the first night.

The next day we went and took the bus tour to see the city.  It's fairly new this particular service and is on a double decker bus.  They arent necessarily our favorite things to do (any of us) but the buses are new, clean, and have some neat audio systems that have 10 languages to choose from as you are guided through the city to see major sights. you  can get on and off as you like at the set stops.  You buy a two day pass.  We only ended up doing the one afternoon but we saw some neat areas that we want to go back to.   We went out and had dinner that evening, which is about the latest place to eat dinner we have been so far.  But we had a very good steak dinner and the service was great.   The theme in this city so far is great food, lots of transportation, good service and a very friendly people which is so unusual for such a large city as this.  

Saturday was rainy and so we stayed in.  The next day we headed to the Plaza Frances to go to see the Mausoleum which is an incredible site.  Its a massive "park" with blocks and blocks (almost a city itself) of crypts and mausoleums.  Each one different and ornate and having a unique theme.  I dont usually like things like that but this was definately an amazing thing to see.  Afterwards we headed into the street market.  There were people still setting up but a lot had already gotten their wares ready.  It was a very large market all outdoors with specific booths for people to claim.  It was fun to see all of the great stuff.  Some very unique handmade and then some things you could buy anywhere.  But mostly some great handicrafts.  Mom and i were becoming obsessed with the various Tango art.  

The next day we did errands and then in the evening decided to take Gram to the casino.  It is on two river boats parked next to each other.  It was an interesting complex but none of us were very impressed by how anything was paying.  While out the next day we decided to book a Tango show and then a trip over to Colonia, Uruguay by passenger ferry.  We are going to do those later this week.  More to come on those.  

Guayaquil to Buenos Aires May 25 - 28

After some quick respite in Guayaquil, Ecuador we got on a flight (LAN) to Buenos Aires.  The flight was not the best we have had on LAN (Very crowded, full flight and the seating wasnt the best).  Up to now we have been so happy, and still are, with LAN.  It was a long flight first to Santiago where we disembarked and then got back on the flight as it continued on to Buenos Aires.  The plane wasnt full and so we were able to spread out.  We were definately tired by the time we got in the next morning.

We were met by the manager of the apartment rental place (property management).  Forrest had reserved a nice spot between Recoletta and Palermo.  It was a great old building.  The elevator required you to open and close two doors for it to work.  The apartment itself was very cute and we quickly unpacked and settled in.  We were both tired and so didnt really push it that first night.  We wanted to start getting things set up before mom and gram arrived on thursday.  

We woke up the next morning and Forrest went to have a shower.  He was having a coughing fit.  He wasnt not feeling well.  Then i had my shower and had the same problem.  The bathroom had water damage (the manager had shared) but as we all thought it wasnt an issue in the end we found out that there was some serious mold and mildew issues going on in the bathroom and part of the master room.  We ended up calling the management firm and told them we needed to leave.  Forrest was getting sicker by the minute.  He is extremely allergic to mold and mildew and i discovered i was mildly.  I never saw him get so ill so quickly.  That is saying something. 

We had to pack up all our things and haul our stuff up the street 14 blocks closer to Barrio Norte.  The rental firm sent a very nice young woman to help us haul our stuff and call cabs.  (a slight issue in Buenos Aires).  The new apartment is more modern and is right on one of the main roads of the city.  It wasnt as quaint as the other but it was dry.  Since it was a smaller space we decided to rent a studio right next door to us.  It is cute but not very big.  But at least they have their own space but also are the room next door and so close.  We had to spend another day settling in.  We were so fed up we decided to stop and find a movie theater and to go see a movie.  We have been so behind in movies.  So we went to go see "Star Trek."  It was in Spanish Subtitles and was down by the docks.  There was a lot of restaurants down there and night clubs but neither of us was really in the mood for a late night.  We still had some "settling in " errands to finish before mom and gram arrived.

up to to now though we have met some very nice people and everyone here seems so helpful, and really nice.  Our limited Spanish is being put to the test as they have a very different dialect here.  You can tell they have a strong Italian influence. But as long as you try people are very understanding and helpful and willing to lend a hand.

Back to Guayaquil May 23 24

The next day Endeavor anchored off of the docks where this whole trip started.  We had spent the evening cruise with a huge barbeque and viewing the trip video that the videographer had made.  We also squeezed in some packing and preparing for the journey back to Guayaquil.

We zodiaked off the ship looking back at the boat that had been our home for one week.  She had been our tour guide to an archipeligo that was unique, full of surprises and wonders (sorry to sound cliche) and experiences none of us will forget.  I know i for one will relish every special moment, every animal i encountered who was a intrigued by me as i was by it.  The Galapagos has always been my dream trip and i am very thankful to have had the opportunity to experience it.  If i am lucky i will get to go  back again but if not the people i met and the animals who bedazzled me will forever stay as very fond memories.  It was like nothing we expected and in some ways it was exactly how we imagined.  

We arrived at the airport from the docks by coach bus and as usual Lindblad had it all organized like clockwork.  We had to do very little. Lindblad does amazing trips and i encourage anyone who is lucky enough to have the opportunity to go to not let it slip by.  It will be the most unique thing will do in its class and if you have a special occasion, one that will be unforgetable.

We arrived Guayaquil and everyone split ways.  In the end Forrest and i were the last to leave, heading off to Buenos Aires. We had a long flight ahead of us but with Machu Pichu and the Galapagos behind us we werent quite sure what BA would have to offer.  Though we are looking forward to a few weeks of respite and no travel.

Cerro Dragon, Sombrero Chino and bartolome May 21 and 22

We arrived in Cerro Dragon early and there was an option to get up before God again which this time i passed on.  Essentially it was a hike up 300+ steps to reach the top of a "peak" (more like hill) to over look a volcanic landscape that apparently was impressive.  If any of you have watched Master and Commander the movie there is a scene on it that was filmed from this vantage point.  

Later on we went to our last snorkel site on the same island.  First we did a wet landing and walked across the thin section of the island to reach the other beach.  Here we saw white tip reef sharks coming right up to the shallows of the beach, their dorsal fins wagging in the surf.  There had to be at least half a dozen.   Forrest and i had swam with these in several places and had no fear of them.  i was ankle deep in the water trying to get a good shot of the silhouette of the shark with their dorsal protuding but the shot never came.  There were very interesting rock formations on this side of the island and the beach was full of life (Sea Lions, birds, and crabs).  

We walked back over to the other beach where we were told to drop our snorkel gear.  This side was teaming with life also.  Penguins were on the hunt underwater and the diversity of fish their colors matched if not surpassed anything we have seen to date.  i even swam with a school of Damsel fish(if you have seen Finding Nemo, "Dori") that were as big as my torso and the prettiest blue with yellow tail fins.  They let me swim with them as they grazed on the bottow floor.

The next day was a peaceful day.  Up to now the staff kept us VERY busy.  This day we had our last outing on Bartolome, Friday.  Not many people took this excursion so Forrest, Helen and I went with three of the photographers and a naturalist.  We were a very small group and very specialized.  At this point (actually the day before) i had the photo bug.  i was enjoying taking photos and really looking how to get a different or best shot and asking LOTS of questions.  The photographers were being very good about it all.  And always helpful.  There were no new species and the trip was slow but very enjoyable as the seven of us meandered the island. I think the best part of it all was that we found the Sally Lightfoot Crabs doing mating dances and we found a female who was "airing" her "egg hatch" which was full of eggs.  We all got some good pictures of her.

Santa Cruz May 20

The next day we arrived at Santa Cruz.  It is on this island where the most people live.  Puerto Ayora is a small port community with quaint shops and avenues.  From the dock we walked up to Darwin Research Station.  It is from here that all of the many research studies and the restoration projects are directed.  There are hundreds  of scientists and naturalists working hard to preserve the bio-diversity and endemic species to these islands.  

Because of the islands unique geographic placement they have seen some interesting immigration and use of the islands.  From Pirates who hid amongst the island chains, to whalers and seafarers who stopped by for provisions (including Giant Torti who can survive without food or water for up to two years guaranteeing fresh meat on long voyages).  To these same seafarers and local colonizers who brought with them alien species that have put added pressure to the islands.  From goats, to cattle, to cats, dogs, rats and birds there are radical restoration projects underway to stop the decline of of the endemic species of plant and animal.  At the Darwin Station one of the more successful programs is repopulating islands of the Galapagos with their endemic species (or subspecies) of Giant Torti.  This includes the eradication of alienn species.  On island has been made pristine again through the culling of thousands of goats.  And the Torti project is just one of many that they are focusing on to turn the tide and preserve this world heritage site.

It was here that we saw the Giant Tortoise, the one species that for me defined the Galapagos the most and the one for which the archipeligo got its name. Meaning "saddle" the name refers to the saddle-like shape of some of the species of Giant Torti found on the islands.

My affinity for turtles is strong as many of you know.  This was the hightlight of this trip for me.  Being so close and being able to watch and touch them brought it all closer for me.  And to see the dozens of baby Torti they were successfully breeding was amazing.  Even i, who knew the importance of every one of those animals, wanted to take one home they were so cute.  

Isabela and Fernandina Islands - May 19

Today was a very slow day for myself.  I only did one of the three excursions offered but Forrest did them all.  We crossed over the equator northward and are now situated on the western edge of the archipeligo.  Early in the morning there was an announcement to the whole boat (5:30) that the ship was sailing past the western most edge of Fernandina Island.  This is the newest of all the islands (300,000 years old) and is the most volcanically active (last major volcanic activity three weeks  ago).  It looked like an island in turmoil and the edges of the shore were in this lateset area were covered in lava flow.  There was some life in amidst this but most of the life on this island was on the edges (marine).  

We were sailing along the coast because of the unique situation of this island.  It was literally balancing on the edge .  West only a little ways off was the edge of the continental shelf where the cold under current pushes up and meets the warm equatorial current (or counter current) sometimes creating marine fog and unusual cooler waters for this area.  These conditions create a literal soup of rich organisms that the animals take advantage of here in the Galapagos.  This side of the island is known for seeing a rich diversity of marine life (like whales, fish, etc) who can take advantage of these conditions.  

Later, after breakfast we headed back to Isabela to Punto Vicente Roca to take a Zodiak ride around the edges of this unique area of Isabela.  The largest of all the islands and the one that is shaped a little like a Seahorse, we were exploring around the head (northernmost).  We were not getting on the shore but the zodiak was taking us along it.  This is where we saw our first penquins (only one the rest were swimming we later found out) and the flightless Cormorant. 

We were then taken back to the ship to put on our snorkel gear and zodiaked back to those waters.  This was cool as the Penguins were swimming and fishing and were not afraid of us so we were in and amongst them.  A few of the Cormorants were in the water too.

The afternoon we were taken back to Fernandina on the northeastern tip.  It was here that we landed at Punta Espinosa.  This was a great outing as there was just so much to see.  Tons of flightless cormorants, snakes, marine iquanas by the hundreds (some swimming between little rocky out croppings, there were tidal pools (one even had a sea turtle in it).  The ground at the shore was ropy, pumicy hardened lava and so was super slick. Three photographers fell (backwards and always protecting their equipment).  They had some skinned and bruised knees though.  We saw a juvenile sea turtle, two Great Herons, tons of Sea Lions, Crabs and even a Hawk.  These shores were rich in wildlife.  This island had a good sized (if not young) mangrove just off of the lava field but it was starting to claim the lava too.  There was an endemic (which is incredible considering the youth of this island) Cactus that grows off of the lava.  It is the primary colonizer, and breaks the lava down into gritty sand readying it for the Secondary plants that come in and continue the process of creating soil.

Champion Island and Floreana May 18

Today was perhaps my favorite day so far!  Although it was perhaps the closest to the realities of nature that i have ever gotten.

The day started with us being taken by Zodiak (of course) to Champion Island.  A little larger than the other island we snorkeled "around."  This one was characterized by steep cliffs above and deep water below.  Perfect climate for?  you guessed it fishing.  No not us.  We got into the water to do our snorkel like good Lindblad cruisers and the magic happened immediately.  There were far more fish and far more variety and and there were underwater shelves closer to the shore before the sea floor dropped via walls down to deeper waters.  The marine life was colorful and varied near the walls and shelf. Just over the drop-off was where the "feeder" fish were in the thousands.  At first they kept their distance in their huge schools.

Then as i wished in my head that they would trust me (us) they moved directly at me and surrounded me.  It was as if i had willed myself into school.  Not so. They had figured out us humans were no threat (at least the ones around them now) and were using us as shields and cover.  The closest fish were no farther than one inch from me and they all crowded me for the "protection."  Protection it turned out from above.  No sooner had i wondered why so many of my fish "brethern" were trying to be below did the first Boobie, then the next and about a three other bird species were plunging around me (not four feet) from any part of me.  The target?  You guessed it all the fish now hiding by me and all the other snorkelers.  Our arrival had only interrupted the feeding briefly.  The sea birds now confident that we were like all the other big dumb mammals, not threat.  Were plunging all around us by the tens and twenties.  

It is fascinating to watch as they dive either from the cliffs or from the air (if they are aloft already).  They come at it at "break neck" speeds and plunge go about 36 inches and then do a 70 degree upturn back toward the surface, sometimes with or without a fish.  Meanwhile we are swimming, Sea Lions are in on the action and three peculiar fish.  A trumpetlike fish, juvenile Barracuda and some large silver fish i was never able to identify, were all hunting too.  In and around us was a feeding frenzy and none of it was disturbing. Oddly enough it was beautiful almost how synchronized everything seemed.  I mean not to sound disturbing but never did we feel we were in danger of a plunging collision or a misplaced canine (from a Sea Lion)  or whatever.  The animals were both ignoring us and using us.  Eventually we had to "drift" on around the island and leave the feeding waters.  

One of the animals i wanted to see while here was a Green Sea Turtle.  Very common i hear in these waters but being that they are among my favorite animals (my tatoo sake) i wanted to see one.  I was just thinking where might they be since i expected them to be hunting where everyone else was when the silent, graceful swimmers that they are one very large individual appeared out of the blue green behind and to my left and glided by me, within five feet to take a look at me.  It turned its head to look at me and then dove and turned to its left moving off as other snorkelers got in on my moment.  I was so excited.  I left the water after that.  Nothing else could make this snorkel better.  

In the afternoon we headed to Floreana Island.  This was a wet landing.  In a wet landing you jump into the water (calf deep) and wade into the beach.  Our groups gathered on the beach before heading in.  It was on this island we would see the Galapagos Great Flamingo (i didnt even know such a thing existed).  There is a huge mineral lake that has the perfect conditions for brine shrimp.  The main diet of flamingos and the reason they are pink.  There were not many on the lake on the island a few sparse individuals spread out but there were a few individuals who were close enough for some pictures.  

Floreana was arid like the other islands but had shrub and small trees throughout the landscape.  The island was very hilly and had volcanic activity like the other islands.  The paths were tight and had vegetation growing close on both sides.  More bushy and having an endemic daisy-like bush with brigh yellow flowers.  This island had quite a few endemic species of flowering bush which was unique from the other islands we had visited so far.  It was on this island that we saw the endemic Floreana island species of mocking bird (expert at stealing drinks from visitor's water bottles) and several finches and the endemic pollinator to the Galapagos Archipeligo, the Carpenter Bee.  

Further along on the trail was where we slammed right head on into the reality of mother nature.  Although we had this experience in the water our values were not challenged as we were prepared for fish to be on the course.  Our group had just walked around the corner onto the further beach where a scene was unfolding between Frigate Birds and baby Green Sea Turtles.  Two other groups were already further down the beach.  This spectacle was unfolding at this very moment for us.  All we knew was this further beach (on the opposite side of the island from where we landed) was where Sea Turtles came to lay eggs.  All over there were signs of their coming up on the beach, etc.  There were three very large Frigates diving at the same mound where there was from our perspective a little dimple in the ground.  We were all curious at this odd behavior when as we got closer we realized what was happening.  Baby turtles were emerging and making for the sea.  I dont know if any of you have seen the Mutual of Omaha episode way back when but i remember it as a kid and it was disturbing then.  In fact i seem to remember myself as an 8 year old being distraught.  Here i was witnessing my favorite animal as prey.  One after another the babies emerged and were pick up by a swooping Frigate.  We watched as a squirming baby turtle was in the beak of a uplifting bird.  Not one baby emerged past the mound.  The dimple was too high up on the dune for us to see the babies come out.  Our only indicator was the success of the Frigates given light by the prey in their mouths.

The naturalists immediately called the other groups over at first we thought to witness this but in fact it was to rally more naturalists to protect what was going on.  I dont think there was any danger of anyone in our group trying to stop it although  we were all disturbed and heartbroken for the baby turtles.  The naturalists kept us at a distance and kept asking us not to disturb what was going on.  They were afraid one of us might turn turtle zealot and start throwing rocks at the Frigates.  None of us did and the scene stopped as quickly as it started.  Not because we were there but the swooping attempts were having less success which indicated to us that the few babies that had hatched early (supposed to be evening) were now depleted.  

Our group headed back towards the other beach trying to workout the scene we had been witness to.  We got back in our Zodiak and headed back to the ship.  On the way our Naturalist tried to talk about why what happened was good (something about turtles are supposed to hatch at night so the Frigates were eating defective turtles).  On the way to the ship the Zodiak driver spotted dolphins in the distance.  The naturalist gave the go ahead and we followed a pod of about 80 Bottle-nosed Dolphins.  Forrest got the only shot of an individual jumping out of the water in mid-air.  They were jumping everywhere. But it was Forrest's shot that recorded the moment (the pic attached) one jumping in mid air.  They were jumping everywhere and all around us and we must have ridden among them for a good 20 minutes.  Cameras and fingers were pointing in every direction.  And mothers guided their babies over to look at us at speeds you would not have thought possible for an animal that young.  

We headed back to the ship on being recalled by the captain.  All of us happy and amazed and contemplating the three scenes we had witnessed that day.  Our small group had scene three very different things regarding the realities of nature that day.  A good reminder but one not sad nor sobering but rather spiritual almost.  I had thought back at the moment with the Sea Turtle in the morning and realized there really was a "Circle of Life" not that i had not believed  before but that cliche had become just that something too familiar and abstract.  Now it was real.  I thought about id and Forrest and I talked about it.  It had been a good day.  

Isla Espanola and Gardner Bay May 17

Day 2 of our Galapagos trip landed us on Isla Espanola at Punta Suarez.  We were up at  7 am for this very special island.  Richer in wildlife and a rarity we were in for a special treat.  We were there for the Waved Albatros.  One of the largest Albatros in the world.  These birds standing easily stood at three feet.  They are so large that they often incur injury landing and they can only take off from higher ground (cliff).  They are beautiful birds and their size is difficult to show by camera.  

Espanola was in contrast a lot more lush but still arid in its type of plant life to North Seymour.  There were Blue-footed Boobies here and Frigates but this island also housed the Masked Boobie.  Similar to its cousin with blue feet the pure white plumage is replaced by a brown mask  over its eyes and brown on its back.  

My favorite bird became the swallow-tailed gull.  A grey bird with a black head.  elegant in its flight.  We saw more Iguana, crabs and sea-lions.

In the afternoon we moored just off a small Island named Gardner Bay.  We were zodiaked out to a spot where we could snorkel.  There were some great fish but the best part of it all was a colony of Galapagos Sea Lions were there and they were in a playful mood.  They swam in and out of the group.  Two large pups were playing a game of "Tail Splash" with Forrest.  He being the kid he is was pretty good at the game to the pups delight.  They would swim by fast and then swish their back flippers so that water would splash from the surface and hit him in the face.  He waited for them to surface and then he would contort in the water and do the same.  He was the last out of the water onto the zodiak because he kept this up for at least half an hour.  he came out of the water with a big grin and the pups surfaced near the zodiak almost begging him to come back and play.  i swear there could have been tears in their eyes.  

Guayaquil, Endeavor and North Seymour - May 15, 16

Forrest and I had arrived the day before in Guayaquil.  Lindblad had set everyone up for one night (two for us)  in the fancy hotel not too far from downtown or from the airport. I have to say they are extremely organized and good at crowd control. We ate dinner at the hotel as they had a German buffet going on.  It was really good.  Unfortunately it was the best meal we had there as the other few times we ate there the food was only so so.  

We had gone into town to eat, etc and just to get a feel for the city.  The next morning we were planning on going back down to Malecon 2000 (the boardwalk) to have a bigger stroll and people watch while we waited for Helen to fly in for the trip.  At about 9 am we got a call in our room and a very bright and excited voice on the other end said, "ready to go?"  It was Helen.  She had actually arrived the day before (evening).  So we ate breakfast and planned our day.  The first thing we did was went to the artesan mercado just off of the the Malecon.  Helen wanted to shop for home and we went along.  We had already done our shopping in Olatambo in the highlands but it was fun to see the market in Guayaquil.  

After the market we headed over to the Malecon 2000, a huge boardwalk with theme areas all along it.  It hugs the river to the sea and it is beautifully kept and very impressive.  Everyone in town seems to use it on the weekend.  We strolled along its bank while Helen took pictures.  Helen is an amazing photographer and there was just so much to take pictures of.  She was like a kid in a candy store.  

We stopped off at this bar in the middle of the Malecon (the only one in that area) to have a drink and a quick bite to eat.  We had walked a while and decided to head back.  Helen and i had booked a spa in the salon.  Afterwards we ate dinner and then sat in the lounge to people watch and guess who was going to be on our boat.  Since it was an early wake up the next day we decided to call it an early evening.

The wake up call was 5 am.  We got packed and ready and down stairs by 6am for the communal breakfast buffet for the Lindblad group.  Again they had it all organized.  Some of us had to leave luggage in storage and we tagged the luggage we were taking.  After finishing our breakfast we gathered in the huge foyer and lounge and waited for our transportation to the airport.  The check out was handled (save any indiscrepencies on any bill) and then the passes were handed out for the transport.  On the bus they gave us the details of what to expect and by the time we got to the airport our luggage had been checked in as well as us.  (They could do that since it was a domestic flight withing Ecuador).  We went through security as a group and waited at the terminal for the shortest time and then loaded onto the plane.  Clockwork and very well planned.  Forrest and I were impressed.  But we just wanted to say anyone who goes on our "Friends and Family" trips dont get any ideas.  :)

The flight was just about two hours and was very pleasant.  As we landed on Baltra Island (the small island where the airport and port is built) we were fumugated and stepped onto biohazzard neutralizer solution.  Oh and inside the plane they opened all the upward luggage holds and fumagated them too.  Odd experience but it was all in name of protecting the endemic flora and fauna.    So when we grow an extra arm in a year we know what was the cause.  

From the airport we took off in buses to the dock.  A very small dock where resident sea lions were lounging all around.  They were our official "welcoming" committee.  Unfortunately they were on an extended break when we were arrived.  There were a few iguanas and Sally-lightfoot Crabs too.  Course at that point we knew them as "oooooo pretty red and blue crab."  We would get "edumacated" fairly quickly.

From the dock we would take our very first ride of MANY on a Zodiak out to the ship, The National Geographic Endeavor.  On these expedition cruises we go to some remote spots because the boat is so small but that means we are landing on lava or sand or something in between.  That means Zodiaks.  Not the usual tenders anyone who has been on a trip with us before are used to.  It makes it fun but there are some a little more technical mount and dismount rules/ procedures.  Nothing grueling just safety.  

Once in the Endeavor we were surprised at our cabins (which were ready and had our luggage waiting) at what a decent size they were.  Forrest and i had two picture windows.  Gorgeous view.  (there were no verandahs).  The ship is very scientific looking from the outside and hence very spartan.  But inside the dining area is large and quite wonderful and there is a forward lounge where our expedition "talks" and "briefings" would occur.  It had a fully stocked bar.  On the upper deck there was a nice sized library and next to that a gym, spa salon and the medical bay.  That opened out to the equipment deck where one gets prepared for a snorkel.  

The bridge was always open to guests and there was a pool (sort of deep wading pool).  The boat was more than comfortable and we had a personal care kit and chocolates awaiting us in our cabins.

Once we got settled we had a quick "briefing" about our voyage and our afternoon.  We were to land on North Seymour Island.  It was to be a "dry" landing and a good walk.  Perfect introductory to our Galapagos "expedition."  We were told we had a choice each "outing" between going with a "Naturalist" groups or the "Photo safari" groups.  The Naturalist groups had naturalist and left first.  they focused on what was being seen and gave a history of the island. they moved a little faster than the photo groups.  the photo groups had both a naturalist and a photographer.  these groups moved slower and were last off the ship.  for the purpose of those interested, taking pictures.  

You see the expedition we signed up for was a special one.  it had four photographers (all contractual and some who worked with National Geographic).  There jobs on board was to help people improve their photography (specifically as it relates to nature photography).  So the classes on board were centered around the hobby of photography.  not everyone on board was there for this purpose.  about half just wanted to see the wildlife.  They photographers, some were naturalists/ scientists themselves.  So you got a lot of expertise from the biological perspective.  

Forrest and I decided to do the "naturalist" group and Helen went with the "photograpy" group.  Neither of knew what to expect when going to the Galapagos.  I guess in my mind i imagined lots of bushes and trees and a lush tropical (equator) environ with flecks of volcanic activity (sort of like a Hawaii).  

the reality is it is very marine, very volcanic and very desertlike.  A lot of the islands have lava scarring, and the biome and climate is very arid.  You have trees and cacti and bushes that are quite clearly drought tolerant.  The soils varied from island to island.  North Seymour was very arid.  Where we landed was fairly flat (most areas you go are on a set nature path just over a mile long and they usually traverse inland and along the shore) and there was evidence of long since happened lava flow.  The shore was rocky and very pumicey (if that is  a word).  

North Seymour was the land of the birds.  Yes there were Iguana and yes there were coastal life like the Sea Lions, etc but in shear terms of numbers we were here to see the famous Blue-footed Booby and the Frigate Birds (Both Great and Magnificent varieties).  Both were in varying degrees of courtship.  The birds on the outer area of the island were definately still going through courtship.  The dances were pretty cool and the fact that we were invading their space had little effect on their behaviour.  I know my biologist or even scientist friends in general will argue that point but i would say that the interference is unusually unnoticeable considering how close we were to EVERYTHING.   As we moved close into the island that is where we started seeing Boobies on eggs and parents with newly hatched chicks.  There was definately a clear demarkation of where the best nest sites were.  And the early bird in this case mates and hatches eggs first.

The Frigate birds (both varieties) were on the bushes around us while the Boobies were ground nesters).  The males had their big red pouches fully inflated.  This was their way of attracting mates.  You will see pictures of the pouches inflated and you will notice that they can fly with these huge swellings under their neck.  

What was amazing about this first encounter for us was the reality that we WERE going to get very close to these animals that were famous and integral to one of the most controversial and yet in terms of academic circles, widely accepted theories on biological diversity. The mechanics are argued but the basic concept seems to be the holy tome for most in the many and varied fields of biology.  And here we were walking with feet, and some inches, of the very species that inspired one of those few, but world shaking "aha!" moments.  Yes other things were at play, etc.  

The animals were not afraid.  They were as the naturalists described "naive."  They ignored us.  Sea Lions were most intrigued and the Lava Lizards (the smallest reptile on the islands) were bold.  But every other animal eyed us nothing more.  We knew at this moment were in a very special place. More so than we had believed and why most of us were drawn here.   The animals had not known to fear humans or large mammals for that matter.  A very rare situation and one where you get a good feeling.  Yes, today, the Galapagos are in danger because of invasive species (we will blog about that later).  There is good energy in the Galapagos and Forrest, and Helen and I were feeling it.  The animals and plants were going to effect us as well as the landscape much more deeply than we had anticipated.  Not like the Machu Pichu trip had but in a very different way.  

Olatambo and the Equatorial Line

Well our last two days in Quito were very cool.  My favorite days here.  We called the guy up who drove us from the airport (you have to be very careful with the taxi drivers.)   VERY careful.  he was not available for the day we wanted to go to the Equator.  It was a 45 minute drive there and then back again.  We had to agree on a price for half a day.  He timed it to the minute too.

Anyway he took us to the offiicial monument.  The story is that Ecuador is the only place in the world where the equator goes across highland.  A group of french came in the 1800s and using math and instruments they measured where the equator was.  Some Quechua told them that the the equator was actually several meters over from where they measured it.

Well they built a huge monument (and subsequent park around it all) to mark it.  Next door to this park is a very understated, hard to find, but very cool park that marks where the Quechua(Inka) marked the equator and which was later confirmed by GPS as the actual equator line.  Both sites coexist next to each other and compliment each other.  To the french credit they were not too far off.  The two sites could not be more contrasting.  The french site is grandiose and amusement park whilst the Quechua site is a living museum of the tribes who lived in the area (not just Quechua).  It is also a science lab for how gravity and physics work differently at and on either side of the line.   We stayed too long at this second site (it was just so much fun) so our cab driver came to fetch us.   he was really adept at making us feel guilty even though we were paying him extra.  

That night we decided to hire the guy who drove us from the airport for our all day trip to Olatambo.  This is where the famous indigenous textile market is held every day with the big one being on saturday.  we missed the saturday market but still wanted to see what it was all about.  Forrest loves markets more than i do.  It was a two drive each way but our driver was fine letting us stay as long as we wanted.  he was so much different than the other guy.  

We had a great time and though we were not expecting to buy much we ended up buying a duffle (that Forrest bought from an alpaca dealer) to carry everything we bought.  things were so cheap.  Much less than any of the dealings we did in any market anywhere else.  And the quality of everything we bought was unequaled.   We had a great time and a very enjoyable day.  IF you go to Quito make sure you take the time to go to Olatambo.  You dont need to have a private driver like us.  You can take a bus.  

The Teleferico

We decided to do go up the Teleferico (a cable car).  It goes up to about 12,000 feet up the side of the volcano that sits over the valley and the city of Quito.  It was a pleasant ride but it climbed pretty steep.  Neither of realized how fast until we are at the top.   The view was spectacular.  There wasnt much at the top.  It seemed as thought there were great plans for it but they ran out of money.  But they are still building things like a small hotel and some cabin bungalows.  The volcano and lava beds are pretty cool.  There is a trail that you can hike up to the crater.  Neither of us were up for that and we really didnt have time as it was a several hour ordeal.  Forrest started feeling the effects of the altitude so we decided to cut our losses before he got too bad.  

It was a nice afternoon.