The hospitality of the Greek people was matched by the hospitality of the Turks. Just pulling into Istanbul was pretty great. It is an impressive city and the prayer towers(sorry I don’t remember the word) dominated the skyline as did a few mosques. The two most prominent being the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia. Our boat pulled into the Asian side of the city. Once off the boat (we arrived 4pm) we headed over to the grand palace of the Ottoman Emperors. A massive complex that was pretty self-sufficient in its day. There were some impressive displays in some of the buildings or chambers of some of the Emperors’ personal items and even presentations and gifts that the heads of other states sent to various Emperors.

We went and ate dinner then headed out at knight. One of friends was hungry and so he wanted to have a snack. We pulled up to a local stand and ate. It was kebab (lamb) on a hoagie roll and it was seasoned really nice. It had a good bite. Earlier that afternoon we had heard one of the calls to prayer. Every tower around us, in turn, began the call to prayer. They were almost choreographed in their precise intervals but they all created a massive resonance and chorus of voices. It was a very beautiful sound and spiritual experience.

The next day we woke up and headed into the city via the local mass transit (which was very efficient and quite good). We had a big itinerary that day and so we visited the Blue Mosque, the Hagia Sofia, the Cistern and the Grand Bazaar.

The Blue Mosque is a working mosque so we needed to pay attention to some very basic rules. No shoes, no flashes from cameras (although no pictures were the actual rules) etc. Once inside it was an impressive site of basilicas and columns. Dome after dome held the impressive structure up.

Next we went to the Hagia Sofia. Yet another impressive site. The Hagia Sofia was the central basilica for the Byzantines when the city was called Constantinople. When the Ottomans conquered the city they turned it into a mosque. Then they built the Blue Mosque. The Ottomans, though not perfect, followed the tenets of Islam being very tolerant of their Christian and Jewish subjects. They uncovered some of the old mosaics that had been covered, as no images of animal or human may be displayed in their houses of worship, and turned it back into a place where its many Christian subjects could still visit (and foreign visitors). You could feel how holy the site was and the mosaics that had been uncovered were beautiful. We were allowed to take photos in the church and we got some great ones of the mosaics.

Next we saw the Cistern. It is an underground spring, fairly large in scale. Their were walkways in between the massive columns that kept the “cave” ceiling up. The cistern was the main source of water (storage) for the city. Photos don’t do the scale of the place justice.

Once finished with our site seeing it was off to lunch where we had a great lamb kebab meal just off the bazaar. The people are so friendly. Then it was off to the market. We all imagined the market and its vendors to be very aggressive. There was an instance or two but for the most part the whole experience was benign. It was still fun and it had to be the largest market I have ever seen. It went on for ever. It was mostly enclosed and there were nicer sections than others.

After the Grand Bazaar it was back to the ship. We had so much fun and really loved the Turkish people in Istanbul. A great experience. We were glad we had an overnight there (the ship).

Split, Croatia, Sea Day, and Athens, Greece

The first day after sailing was beautiful. The seas were calm and the ship itself has a different personality to the last one. People do not seem as high strung as the last one. Though I suppose we do not have the pressure of an extended length cruise to contend with and add to people’s temperment. Split was larger than we expected and you could see Diocletian’s Palace from the port and it was an impressive site against the backdrop of the city. It was at one point the city itself. All life happened within the walls of the palatial grounds. The area at one time being the estate of the Emperor Diocletius. Over the years the town around it developed and subsequent eras added or changed the original building, adding Medieval architecture and modern buildings to the grounds.

The tour was not up to par but it was still an enjoyable day. We had one day at sea which was uneventful. I will say that this seems like a very efficiently run ship. Apart from everybody’s key cards not working the first day there really haven’t been any problems. There have been a few notable cutbacks since our last cruise. The first and most noticeable is that cabin stewards have had a doubling of their duties. So where you are able to talk and get to know your steward, now they have very little time. It is the same way in the Lido dining room. They have also gotten rid of trays in the Lido. I never liked the trays but I have to say where before you could get your food in one run now it takes a few more.

The next day we got to Athens. We decided to get up early to beat the crowds and we did a tremendous job. When we got there only a couple buses from one other ship were there. We got right into the Acropolis. On the way as we turned a corner the Acroplis came into view. The hills and the Temple complex (actually a series of complexes) came into view. The sun lit it up and it was an impressive site that commanded itself as the center of the city. Athens was built up all around it and as we ascended the MANY steps the city winded all around hills and valleys in and around the city.

The Acropolis is made up of several temples most dedicated to one or more visages of Athena. They were under renovation and so there was a lot of scaffolding around and on the buildings. The whole site was just breathtaking and fairly preserved. We all got a lot great pictures. Down the slopes of the Acropolis hill we went to see other sites like the Temple of Zeus, the old market place, etc. The Athenians were wonderful. We had our first Gyro in Greece there and it was awesome. The pita was grilled and the lamb was so tender and seasoned perfectly and on it was just about the best Tzatziki sauce I have ever tasted. Greek is my favorite back home but I can honestly say I haven’t had anything that came close to this.

Venice 23 & 24

Forrest and I got an early start to board the ship. We woke up, ate breakfast by the canal one last time and then finished packing to get going before the heat got too overwhelming.

We each had two very bags (one pull along and one back pack) and one carry on each. It was a long haul but we went on one of the water buses. We had hoped it wouldn’t be crowded on the run we took , that early but it was jammed pack. Here we were with all our luggage and people elbow to elbow.

We got out alright and we found the bus area where shuttles were being ran to where embarkation begins with the boat. By the time we got to the Oosterdam we were definitely tired. The embarkation process was not perfect but nothing horrendous happended. We were definitely ready to be on board.

After check in and unpacking we caught up with our friends Randall and Alberto. We met them on the last cruise (South Pacific). Randall is the Piano Singer in the Piano bar. They are two great guys and we had a lot of fun with them on the last cruise. We were very excited to hear that they were going to be on this ship.

The next day we had breakfast with our friends and then went into town again. We decided to take the water bus to the Rialto bridge and then walk to Piazelle San Mark. This time we lined up in the very long line to see Saint Mark’s Basilica. It was beautiful and very worth the line. It was gilded gold with amazing mosaics and the architecture was stunning and impressive. This structure though not the tallest was no less impressive in its size but also the number domes and arches employed. Afterwards we started heading home and we bumped into our friends. We decided to go to lunch with them. We all began the long trek home.

At 5pm was the sail away and we saw parts of Venice we had not had the opportunity to see . The Oosterdam is a very large ship and it dwarfed all the other vessels around it and the city skyline which comprised mostly of bell towers.

Day four - Academia Art Museum and Mureno

Today we got up earlier and headed out right after breakfast. First stop was the Academia Art Museum to see a great collection of Renaissance Art. Among the more famous pictures (for those Art History 101 buffs) was Bellini's La Pieta and the picture of St George and Dragon.

After the museum we decided to take a water bus over to the island town of Mureno. This is the birthplace of Venetian Glass making. A quick 15 minute ride into the main lagoon, the town of Mureno has its own style and energy. Glass shops are even more prevalent and the glass factories sizable. Artists from around Europe and the world practice their trade and hone the special Venetian style of glass work (including glass blowing). We are glass enthusiasts and it was sheer torture not to buy. If you are looking for that spectacular, ornate, but tasteful chandalier for your foyer, formal bedroom or dining room this is the place to look. The town is split in two buy a main canal. There is public art (beautiful, unique and some bizarrely puzzling) everywhere. A decidely more subtle city in terms of its facades and buildings it is a quaint hide away and we both fell in love with its charm. Though for us it would be hell as well with so much beautiful glass work.

It was our intention to tour the glass museums and workshops but while eating both of us began feeling the heat in a bad way. Forrest even passed out at the dinner table. He was alright and it only lasted briend time but scary nonetheless.

Still the boat ride back afforded us another look at this gem of a town on the outer islands.

Day Three - Doge's Palace Plaza San Marco

We got up extra early today to beat the crowds at the Plaza San Marco. It was a particularly hot today and it was only morning. By the time we finished at the Doge's palace the weather was 70% humidity and at least 90 degrees. We were in no mood to walk back so we too a water bus. The bussing system (sort of like a foot passenger ferry service) is very regular and efficient. There really isnt much of wait if you miss a bus. In fact considering the only transportation options you have are either by boat (gondola, water taxi, or water bus) or walking the city does a great job moving people around once they get here (which is via many modes typical for any city.).

Literally hundreds of thousands of tourists come here everyday and that may seem far-fetched and a little overwhelming but the only real places that are impacted are are Plaza San Marco.

the Doge's palace was pretty spectacular. The seat of the Venetian power the palace is nothing short of massive. Venice was a sea-bourne empire and its fleets were unmatched in the world for many years until the Portuguese infused its navy with wealth from the Far East through its sea routes in the 15th century and broke Venice's overland monopoly.

Venice was ruled by its wealthiest families (2,000). Each of whom had a say in the Great Council. It was this council who elected the Senate and special committees that governed the Empire, saw to civil duties and schemed over foreign policy. The Great Halls and Council rooms were huge and reflected this representation. The militia armory was in this building and the magistrate court rooms. A Republic it afforded its citizens rich and poor many luxuries and rights. The branches of the government had a checks and balances system, though not perfect, and often trumped by the Great Council. The palace was opulent and large and grandiose befitting the central ruling place of one of the richest and influential powers of the middle-ages and renaissance.

It was under renovation on its facade and in a lot of the salons. there was still a lot to see and the detail everywhere was incredible. It was particulary very warm and as the day got on the palace became more crowded. We made it from the magistrate area over to the prison via the Bridge of Sighs. It was here enemies of the state and criminals (civil and political)passed on the way from the magistrate to the prison. A literal dungeon and maze of tight and claustrophobic cells the prison was large. It is here that Cassanova spent many a day because of his many "exploits."

After the heat became too unbearable we headed off back to the hotel to cool off. We decided to buy a three day pass on the water buses. It turned out to be a good decision as when we got on the water there was cool marine breeze. We had not got down the Grand Canal yet and so it was a treat to ride up it. We passed under the Rialto bridge and made our way past some beautiful palaces, museums, halls, and theaters as well as typical homes all along the Grand Canal.

By the time we got home we were drenched from the humidity. We showered off and settled to get cool and then headed out for an early dinner, gelato and night stroll over to the Plaza Roma.

A delightful day in a beautiful and romantic city.

Day Two - Our first day exploring Venice

Today we woke up early and enjoyed breakfast next to the canal. The hotel we are staying is called Ca’Dagrossa and offers breakfast in the morning. It’s front façade faces the Canal di Canarregio and is not far from the mouth of it. The hotel is not in the tourist zone but sits in one of the city’s more historical areas, Cannaregio.

Today Canneregio is mostly residential and hosts a few colleges. More a central focus for those who take long holidays for weeks at a time, living in the city, the odd day travelling tourists still find their way. This area of the city hosts some very important historical landmarks. Among them is Ghetto Nuovo. Today, still a residential area and home to some of the remaining Venetian Jewish community, Ghetto Nuovo was set aside and inhabited by Spanish Jews escaping the Spanish Inquisition. Venice welcomed the Spanish Jewish community that emigrated there as they brought with them great wealth and excellent craftmanship. I had not realized that the Venetians funded their contributions to the Renaissance and their unequaled maritime trade networks through these influential Jewish families.

The Venetian Republic passed laws that allowed the new Venetian citizens to “invest” (the term lend is more commonly used) in Venetian trade enterprises and become patrons of the artworks but also Jewish artisans and craftsmen were commissioned to work on many public and private artworks, including some of the most famous Venetian churches. But the price of course was steep. Venetian Jews were not allowed to live beyond the Ghetto Nuovo boundary and on Venetian holidays (all Christian based) they were not allowed out of their homes.

Of course during the Mussolini years the ghetto became even more ominous and walls were put up to establish a more permanent boundary and turn the ghetto into a prison/ camp. Some of that history remains too.

We also walked through the streets, crossing many bridges to walk towards the Ponte Rialto. The Canal Grande was huge and there was a great deal of shipping that passes through it as one might imagine. From tiny rental speedboats to gondolas to freight barges and bigger. The day was unbearably hot and so we tried to stay out of the main thoroughfares. We walked down narrow sidestreets and alleys to traverse our way to the Plaza San Marco. The markets and small stores and fashion boutiques lined the outskirts of the plaza but itself was a large area packed with tourists. The day we went was considered a light day. It was crowded but nothing like the stories we had heard about where every path in to the plaza was a line and shoulder to shoulder. The Ducal Palace and Saint Marks Basilica was more beautiful than I imagined and movies do not do the whole plaza justice. The detail and opulence surpassed imagination. The use of marble alone was extensive and beautiful.

When you see pictures and movies you remember only the bright colors used and you half expect it to be a little overwhelming and gaudy. The opposite is true. Everything is on a scale that makes it all fit together and belong. The city is immaculate, the streets, the buildings, everything is clean. The buildings and bridges have an old rustic look but they are well kept.

For our first day it was an impressive walk and though it was super humid and very warm we enjoyed our stroll.

August 18 and 19: Getting to Venice

We took off from Seattle on British Airways heading to Venice via London. We left in the evening o August 18. The flight itself was not a long as we expected but the seats were worse than we imagined. We flew British Airway’s equivalent to Economy. The seats were tighter than I remember. Much more cramped. I think it was the first time I had flown with them since they introduced their intermediate seating level, which is World Traveller Plus. It’s a high-breed between the economy class and business class. Still the service was British Airways and the food very good. The plane was unusually warm, especially considering we flew over the North Pole to reach London. That route can get very cold at night. Not the case thise time. It was very close. I had noticed that all the individual air nozzles (per seat) were closed up. Not that I use them (I usually shut them off because they recycle the air) .

We arrived in London in good time and as usual the British Airways terminal (these days the brand new Heathrow Terminal 5) was painless to pass through. We caught the National Express bus line to Gatwick Airport, which was a pretty good transfer option. You catch it right outside of the Terminal 5 Arrivals entrance. Just before you leave the building there is a kiosk to purchase your bus pass. It takes about 40 minutes to get to Gatwick Airport’s North Terminal from Heathrow Terminal 5.

The weather was fairly warm for England and the bus air system didn’t seem to work either. But the transfer was very good and we drug our luggage (a lot as usual) off the bus to get in line to check in for our flight to Venice. I had gotten overheated again. But by the time we arrived at the Departures gate after grabbin a bite to eat and stopping by the Priority Pass Lounge to cool down, we were both good as new.

To our great surprise we entered the plane to see the seats were in the older configuration. There was tons of leg room and the seats were reasonably wide. At this point we were both exhausted and our thermostats were screwed up. But at least the plane was cooler.

I was not in the aisle seat but I could see the landscape below. Once we were over the Continental Europe we flew over hundreds of miles of flat plain and farmland. The farmland turned to hills and then all of a sudden of the starboard side of the plane the Alps appeared. I have flown over many mountain ranges and each of them before, that first time, had taken my breath away. This time was no different. They were nothing less than spectacular.

The flight was short and we arrived in Marco Polo Airport on time. The airport is not very big but it was very efficient and immigration and customs was relatively easy. We were both so hungry we stopped and got some food. We ate our first pizza (Forrest had something similar to a calzone). The crust was very thin (Forrest’s very thin bread) and neither was messy with only the freshest of toppings and ingredients. They were SOOOOO good and very light but satisfying.

From there we got our tickets for the Water Bus. We were a little confused and of course neither of us knew even elementary Italian even though we had promised ourselves to learn that asap. We got on the right line and were dropped off at the correct stop. The city is an island just off the coast and is a labyrinth of canals and waterways. Venice’s distinct character and famous buildings were intact and recognizable, even to two weary travelers such as ourselves and at night.

The city was extremely humid. But the magic of Venice hit us and we were more enthralled with its beauty at night to worry. From the bus stop there was just a short walk to the hotel which was lit up at night along the dark canal. The owner was waiting for us and checked us in despite our lack of Italian and his limited English. But then hospitality and gratitude are languages on their own and can be universal.

We got in our room, let everyone know we arrived and crashed after a long couple of days of travel.

Project Europa

Well tomorrow, August 18 we leave for Europe. The trip was originally on our list of things to do when we conceived of travelling but our travels have given us surprises, as has the last year and with that we were distracted with life and other travels to decide whether or not to consider doing it.

I won't speak for Forrest but Buenos Aires was the catalyst for me to want us to go to Europe and do a trip that will be a good finale for the last many months that turned out to be, surprisingly a year of travel. We will be adding to the blog this trip as before and stand by for more pictures too.

I took the lead on organizing this trip, as Forrest has done the previous ones. But of course he isnt good at standing idly by and so what started out as a solo project has become a joint project that we are very excited to enjoy.

Tomorrow we leave for Venice via London on British Airways. After five days in Venice we will travel by Holland America's Oosterdam for 24 days to ports throughout the Adriatic and Mediterranean finishing in Barcelona. We shall stay in Barcelona for 4 days then travel by train to Marseille. It is there where we will stay for two weeks before journeying to Hungary, the Czech Republic and Austria.

Buenos Aires June 3 to July 23

Since the day we arrived in Buenos Aires we fell in love with the city and the Portenos (people who live in Buenos Aires). The city is so impressive, full of life and energy. Standing in the middle of the city it isn't difficult to see that it has its own flavor in every conceivable way but especially in its architecture. Most would say that Buenos Aires is reminiscent of Paris, Rome and Barecelona with the density and vibe of Manhattan. It is that fact, its unique tapestry of architecture, vision and energy that makes Buenos Aires its own unique city with its own bragging rights. To be compared as "The Paris, Manhattan, etc of South America" is to really not do it justice. Portenos are proud of their heritage, their particular form of Spanish, and their city. That is resoundingly evident everyday.

We met some wonderful people while staying in the city for two months but even the people in the street, in random encounters, were warm, helpful and friendly. Some of our favorite places to visit were the markets in Plaza Francia and in San Telmo on the weekend. Recoleta cemetary was breathtaking with its city-like grid of mausoleums and "streets.' We enjoyed the Parillas, and cafes, medialunas in the afternoon (or empanadas), and late night meals.

In BA one typically doesn't eat before 10, go out to a bar before midnight (except for happy hour before dinner) or dance before 3 am. Portenos lovingly refer to themselves as vampires and the city could definately compete with Manhattan as the city that never sleeps.

And the shopping... well lets just say if you love leather goods (bags, shoes, coats, etc) no where is as inexpensive for some of the highest quality, unique styles, and reasonable priced (well for Europeans and those of us from North America). In fact most things were at least half the price of those back home.

To leave it we were sad. We wish we had stayed, an opinion shared by a friend who visited us, Sally. I wish we had better blogged our experiences in BA but take that as how much we loved the city and really immersed ourselves to the point we had no time to blog. If you get a chance go. We really don't think you will regret it.