The Skookumchuck Narrows and Spa day

Day 4 and 5:

Forrest and I woke up early and drove an hour North to the Skookumchuck Narrows.  It is also, like the boating trip the day earlier, near Egmont.  We hiked to the narrows for about an hour through a nicely kept trail.  Forrest had done his research to find out when the "rapids" were at their most impressive.   We got there before any big crowds.  While we were there a whitewater kayaker had taken up on the rapids through the narrows and was showing off. And by that I mean I was jealous of his spectacular skills.  You could tell he had been at it for a while.

The area of the narrows is the only way into the inlet.  The waters converge and form several areas of "rapids" where the water is rushing at a tremendous rate.  Forget current it is an impressive site and is best described as a rapid.  A site seeing boat came buy and took up position in the rapids, turned around and demonstrated how moving completely counter to the water flow one wouldn't get very far.  The engine was at max and the boat stood still.  It was pretty impressive.  I never really understood the force of flood water until I saw how the water moved, rushed, poured like it did there.  It is humbling and no amount of description here or the pics that I took would illustrate what is best viewed in person.  I took video but have been having difficulty uploading the footage.

After about an hour we headed out of the park and drove back to the hotel.  We had scheduled a couple of spa treatments each.  They were, needless to say, a great way to end the trip.  After the treatments we got back to the treehouse and made dinner in the fully equipped kitchen.

The next day on our way home while riding on the ferry between Landon and Horseshoe Bay we were sad to have to leave such a beautiful and hospitable place.  We will most certainly return.

Day 3 part one Princess Louisa Inlet

Day 3:

On day 3 we got up early and headed out to Egmont for our day trip out to Princess Louisa Inlet through Sunshine Coast Tours.  Our guide and captain was Bryce.  We boarded a flat bottom boat with three other couples and embarked on our adventure North through what was truly spectacular scenery.  The mountains sheered off into the water and the clouds literally rolled over the peaks into the valleys, sounds and inlets like mist waterfalls.  Everything was on a scale so much larger and out in the open.  Not much was missed from any casual observer.  Nature is literally at the doorsteps of those who live in the Sunshine Coast.

It takes two hours to get to Princess Louisa Inlet, another half hour to get to the falls.  Once there you get an hour and a half to explore.  They suggested packing a lunch and we are glad we did as there wasn't much to explore once you got to the falls but sitting next to the fresh water pools that stair-stepped down to the seawater below was so serene.  We had a lovely picnic in the sun listening to the cascading water and looking out at massive and pristine mountain slopes.  

Most of the valleys and inlets had been carved out by massive glaciers at the end of the last ice age.  The result was dramatic as mountains and slopes seem to emerge from the water lacking any gradual incline from water to beach to plain to hill to foothill to peaks.

The park at the foot of the falls was not crowded.  There were just three more boats and most of the inhabitants were happy enough on their boats leaving us to area.  The only resident is the local park ranger.

After our picnic and little bit of exploration we took off back to Egmont.  The ride back was bumpier than our easy ride in but there was new scenery to be in awe of all the way home.  We went back the same way but this time we could see great systems flow up and over the peaks spilling into the inlet and valleys connected to it.  One pass seemed to be puffing out huge logs of cloud as it made its way through the mountain pass and along the mountain range edge and out over the water.

We were tired once finished but we had good day in one of the more beautiful areas of the world.

Next:  We head to our next residence at the Tuwanek Hotel where we stay in the "Tree House" for two nights, rest and do our next adventure the next day at the Skookumchuck Narrows (The Rapids).

A blog revived and the Sunshine Coast (day 1 and 2)

It's been a while I will admit but I finally realized that just because we aren't on our big world adventure  anymore doesn't mean we can't utilize this blog to write about our vacations.  So although we have missed a few small trips since our big world adventure, no matter, we start again with this latest trip.

The Sunshine Coast of British Columbia has been somewhere Forrest and I had plans to visit during our year off.  We never made it then, but we finally took the time to check it out this weekend.  Our trip was from Wednesday, September 19 to Sunday, September 23, 2012.

Day 1:  Getting to the Sunshine Coast

Forrest met me after work at his Grandma's house.  I had just finished my final day of orientation for Bastyr University.  We were on the road North by 4 pm.  I goal was to make it to Courtenay, BC on Vancouver Island by midnight.  We were through the border by 6 pm and at the ferry terminal in Tsawwassen by 6:45.  We were aiming to hit the 8:30 ferry and we did it with time to spare.  The trip across to Nanaimo takes two hours and from there another hour to Courtenay.  If you have ever been on a BC ferry you know how nice they are.  The trip between Tsaw. and Nanaimo is beautiful during the day but of course at night we didn't see much.  The boat was barely 1/4 full so we had most of the facilities to ourselves.

There are two general routes to get to the Sunshine Coast.  One route via Vancouver Island traveling North on the island and then taking a ferry across to the coast and driving South.  The second route is to drive North to Vancouver cross the bridge over to West Vancouver and then up to Horseshoe Bay to take the ferry across to the South end of the Sunshine Coast.  As you can guess we did the first trip.

We stayed in Courtenay at a Best Western in town.  The hotel was clean and the staff very friendly.  The lobby and rooms were updated and nice but the outside visage and inner hallways could do with an updating.  But we found it very acceptable, especially after a long evening of travel and as we arrived the hotel staff on duty were very friendly and helpful.  The hotel comes with a complimentary breakfast which includes both hot options (egg, sausage, etc) and an extensive continental selection.

Day 2:  The Sunshine Coast

The next day we woke up, walked around the town center (little shops) and had a tapas lunch at one of the many restaurants.  We stopped to get some supplies as it is the last big town before the Sunshine Coast going this end.  We drove to the ferry and caught our first in the afternoon.

The first ferry goes form Courtenay (ferry at Comox) to Powell River and takes 1hr and 20 mins.  From there it is a 40 minute drive, along some beautiful coastline, to Saltery Bay then an hour trip across to Earl's  Cove.  Once there we drove for an hour to get to Madeira to stay Stonewater Motel.  Small attached apartment houses that were private.  Each room is a suite with a kitchen.  They were clean and modern and fully furnished with all the amenities afforded a travel hotel.  We had picked up some groceries back in Courtenay so we cooked dinner and relaxed preparing for our big day the next day.

Thoughts:

Though mostly travel days the ferrys went through some beautiful waters.  The coast is dramatic with towering mountains with mixed mature to old growth forests, lush valleys and quaint coves and bays. There is wildlife everywhere and everyone we have met has been friendly and welcoming.  The Sunshine Coast gets half the rainfall of Vancouver, BC and more sunshine.  The temperature of the water tends to be warmer than the average for the sound.

I think one of the most interesting things we noticed is that the Canadians seemed to have made a balance between harvesting the vast resources of the region and preserving its beauty.  There is logging and strip mining evident  as well as oyster and salmon farms BUT they are sporadic and well managed, with what seems to be real thought and planning behind all the industries.  The natural areas dwarf these economic endeavors and everyone with economic stake also take care to preserve the aesthetics and ecology.  It seems to be a balance that works and the money that is generated is invested in the infrastructure of the province.  Perhaps this is why BC has the best ferry system in the hemisphere and if you have travelled BC roads you know how well kept, clean and well lit they are even in some pretty remote areas.

The beauty and sheer scale of everything that we witnessed the second day will be outdone on Friday, the third day with our boat trip to Princess Louisa Inlet.  But more to come on that with our next travel blog addition...

Catch up

So reviewing this blog i realized we did not finish talking about all the places we visited in Europe AFTER August 30, 2009.  For the next three months we travelled by boat, train, plane and automobile.  Besides several stops in Greece including Santorini, Mykonos and Delos we travelled to Istanbul, Ephesus, Split, Dubrovnik, Sicily, the ruins of Pompeii, Rome, Tuscany, and finally Barcelona. 

We loved Barcelona and we were there for a week before carrying on our journey by train across Europe.  Our first stop after Barcelona was Marseille and neighboring Provence for two weeks. Then train to Frankfurt to visit a dear friend.  After Frankfurt, Prague and Budapest.  From there we took the train to Austria to visit my Aunt and her family at their Bed and Breakfast in Bad Ischl.   They have a lovely bed and breakfast called Alpine Meadows.  After a week there we took off for home routed through Ireland.

It was a great trip.  We really enjoyed seeing Europe.   

And so ended our year abroad.  Terrible recap but I felt it needed closure.

The hospitality of the Greek people was matched by the hospitality of the Turks. Just pulling into Istanbul was pretty great. It is an impressive city and the prayer towers(sorry I don’t remember the word) dominated the skyline as did a few mosques. The two most prominent being the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia. Our boat pulled into the Asian side of the city. Once off the boat (we arrived 4pm) we headed over to the grand palace of the Ottoman Emperors. A massive complex that was pretty self-sufficient in its day. There were some impressive displays in some of the buildings or chambers of some of the Emperors’ personal items and even presentations and gifts that the heads of other states sent to various Emperors.

We went and ate dinner then headed out at knight. One of friends was hungry and so he wanted to have a snack. We pulled up to a local stand and ate. It was kebab (lamb) on a hoagie roll and it was seasoned really nice. It had a good bite. Earlier that afternoon we had heard one of the calls to prayer. Every tower around us, in turn, began the call to prayer. They were almost choreographed in their precise intervals but they all created a massive resonance and chorus of voices. It was a very beautiful sound and spiritual experience.

The next day we woke up and headed into the city via the local mass transit (which was very efficient and quite good). We had a big itinerary that day and so we visited the Blue Mosque, the Hagia Sofia, the Cistern and the Grand Bazaar.

The Blue Mosque is a working mosque so we needed to pay attention to some very basic rules. No shoes, no flashes from cameras (although no pictures were the actual rules) etc. Once inside it was an impressive site of basilicas and columns. Dome after dome held the impressive structure up.

Next we went to the Hagia Sofia. Yet another impressive site. The Hagia Sofia was the central basilica for the Byzantines when the city was called Constantinople. When the Ottomans conquered the city they turned it into a mosque. Then they built the Blue Mosque. The Ottomans, though not perfect, followed the tenets of Islam being very tolerant of their Christian and Jewish subjects. They uncovered some of the old mosaics that had been covered, as no images of animal or human may be displayed in their houses of worship, and turned it back into a place where its many Christian subjects could still visit (and foreign visitors). You could feel how holy the site was and the mosaics that had been uncovered were beautiful. We were allowed to take photos in the church and we got some great ones of the mosaics.

Next we saw the Cistern. It is an underground spring, fairly large in scale. Their were walkways in between the massive columns that kept the “cave” ceiling up. The cistern was the main source of water (storage) for the city. Photos don’t do the scale of the place justice.

Once finished with our site seeing it was off to lunch where we had a great lamb kebab meal just off the bazaar. The people are so friendly. Then it was off to the market. We all imagined the market and its vendors to be very aggressive. There was an instance or two but for the most part the whole experience was benign. It was still fun and it had to be the largest market I have ever seen. It went on for ever. It was mostly enclosed and there were nicer sections than others.

After the Grand Bazaar it was back to the ship. We had so much fun and really loved the Turkish people in Istanbul. A great experience. We were glad we had an overnight there (the ship).

Split, Croatia, Sea Day, and Athens, Greece

The first day after sailing was beautiful. The seas were calm and the ship itself has a different personality to the last one. People do not seem as high strung as the last one. Though I suppose we do not have the pressure of an extended length cruise to contend with and add to people’s temperment. Split was larger than we expected and you could see Diocletian’s Palace from the port and it was an impressive site against the backdrop of the city. It was at one point the city itself. All life happened within the walls of the palatial grounds. The area at one time being the estate of the Emperor Diocletius. Over the years the town around it developed and subsequent eras added or changed the original building, adding Medieval architecture and modern buildings to the grounds.

The tour was not up to par but it was still an enjoyable day. We had one day at sea which was uneventful. I will say that this seems like a very efficiently run ship. Apart from everybody’s key cards not working the first day there really haven’t been any problems. There have been a few notable cutbacks since our last cruise. The first and most noticeable is that cabin stewards have had a doubling of their duties. So where you are able to talk and get to know your steward, now they have very little time. It is the same way in the Lido dining room. They have also gotten rid of trays in the Lido. I never liked the trays but I have to say where before you could get your food in one run now it takes a few more.

The next day we got to Athens. We decided to get up early to beat the crowds and we did a tremendous job. When we got there only a couple buses from one other ship were there. We got right into the Acropolis. On the way as we turned a corner the Acroplis came into view. The hills and the Temple complex (actually a series of complexes) came into view. The sun lit it up and it was an impressive site that commanded itself as the center of the city. Athens was built up all around it and as we ascended the MANY steps the city winded all around hills and valleys in and around the city.

The Acropolis is made up of several temples most dedicated to one or more visages of Athena. They were under renovation and so there was a lot of scaffolding around and on the buildings. The whole site was just breathtaking and fairly preserved. We all got a lot great pictures. Down the slopes of the Acropolis hill we went to see other sites like the Temple of Zeus, the old market place, etc. The Athenians were wonderful. We had our first Gyro in Greece there and it was awesome. The pita was grilled and the lamb was so tender and seasoned perfectly and on it was just about the best Tzatziki sauce I have ever tasted. Greek is my favorite back home but I can honestly say I haven’t had anything that came close to this.

Venice 23 & 24

Forrest and I got an early start to board the ship. We woke up, ate breakfast by the canal one last time and then finished packing to get going before the heat got too overwhelming.

We each had two very bags (one pull along and one back pack) and one carry on each. It was a long haul but we went on one of the water buses. We had hoped it wouldn’t be crowded on the run we took , that early but it was jammed pack. Here we were with all our luggage and people elbow to elbow.

We got out alright and we found the bus area where shuttles were being ran to where embarkation begins with the boat. By the time we got to the Oosterdam we were definitely tired. The embarkation process was not perfect but nothing horrendous happended. We were definitely ready to be on board.

After check in and unpacking we caught up with our friends Randall and Alberto. We met them on the last cruise (South Pacific). Randall is the Piano Singer in the Piano bar. They are two great guys and we had a lot of fun with them on the last cruise. We were very excited to hear that they were going to be on this ship.

The next day we had breakfast with our friends and then went into town again. We decided to take the water bus to the Rialto bridge and then walk to Piazelle San Mark. This time we lined up in the very long line to see Saint Mark’s Basilica. It was beautiful and very worth the line. It was gilded gold with amazing mosaics and the architecture was stunning and impressive. This structure though not the tallest was no less impressive in its size but also the number domes and arches employed. Afterwards we started heading home and we bumped into our friends. We decided to go to lunch with them. We all began the long trek home.

At 5pm was the sail away and we saw parts of Venice we had not had the opportunity to see . The Oosterdam is a very large ship and it dwarfed all the other vessels around it and the city skyline which comprised mostly of bell towers.

Day four - Academia Art Museum and Mureno

Today we got up earlier and headed out right after breakfast. First stop was the Academia Art Museum to see a great collection of Renaissance Art. Among the more famous pictures (for those Art History 101 buffs) was Bellini's La Pieta and the picture of St George and Dragon.

After the museum we decided to take a water bus over to the island town of Mureno. This is the birthplace of Venetian Glass making. A quick 15 minute ride into the main lagoon, the town of Mureno has its own style and energy. Glass shops are even more prevalent and the glass factories sizable. Artists from around Europe and the world practice their trade and hone the special Venetian style of glass work (including glass blowing). We are glass enthusiasts and it was sheer torture not to buy. If you are looking for that spectacular, ornate, but tasteful chandalier for your foyer, formal bedroom or dining room this is the place to look. The town is split in two buy a main canal. There is public art (beautiful, unique and some bizarrely puzzling) everywhere. A decidely more subtle city in terms of its facades and buildings it is a quaint hide away and we both fell in love with its charm. Though for us it would be hell as well with so much beautiful glass work.

It was our intention to tour the glass museums and workshops but while eating both of us began feeling the heat in a bad way. Forrest even passed out at the dinner table. He was alright and it only lasted briend time but scary nonetheless.

Still the boat ride back afforded us another look at this gem of a town on the outer islands.

Day Three - Doge's Palace Plaza San Marco

We got up extra early today to beat the crowds at the Plaza San Marco. It was a particularly hot today and it was only morning. By the time we finished at the Doge's palace the weather was 70% humidity and at least 90 degrees. We were in no mood to walk back so we too a water bus. The bussing system (sort of like a foot passenger ferry service) is very regular and efficient. There really isnt much of wait if you miss a bus. In fact considering the only transportation options you have are either by boat (gondola, water taxi, or water bus) or walking the city does a great job moving people around once they get here (which is via many modes typical for any city.).

Literally hundreds of thousands of tourists come here everyday and that may seem far-fetched and a little overwhelming but the only real places that are impacted are are Plaza San Marco.

the Doge's palace was pretty spectacular. The seat of the Venetian power the palace is nothing short of massive. Venice was a sea-bourne empire and its fleets were unmatched in the world for many years until the Portuguese infused its navy with wealth from the Far East through its sea routes in the 15th century and broke Venice's overland monopoly.

Venice was ruled by its wealthiest families (2,000). Each of whom had a say in the Great Council. It was this council who elected the Senate and special committees that governed the Empire, saw to civil duties and schemed over foreign policy. The Great Halls and Council rooms were huge and reflected this representation. The militia armory was in this building and the magistrate court rooms. A Republic it afforded its citizens rich and poor many luxuries and rights. The branches of the government had a checks and balances system, though not perfect, and often trumped by the Great Council. The palace was opulent and large and grandiose befitting the central ruling place of one of the richest and influential powers of the middle-ages and renaissance.

It was under renovation on its facade and in a lot of the salons. there was still a lot to see and the detail everywhere was incredible. It was particulary very warm and as the day got on the palace became more crowded. We made it from the magistrate area over to the prison via the Bridge of Sighs. It was here enemies of the state and criminals (civil and political)passed on the way from the magistrate to the prison. A literal dungeon and maze of tight and claustrophobic cells the prison was large. It is here that Cassanova spent many a day because of his many "exploits."

After the heat became too unbearable we headed off back to the hotel to cool off. We decided to buy a three day pass on the water buses. It turned out to be a good decision as when we got on the water there was cool marine breeze. We had not got down the Grand Canal yet and so it was a treat to ride up it. We passed under the Rialto bridge and made our way past some beautiful palaces, museums, halls, and theaters as well as typical homes all along the Grand Canal.

By the time we got home we were drenched from the humidity. We showered off and settled to get cool and then headed out for an early dinner, gelato and night stroll over to the Plaza Roma.

A delightful day in a beautiful and romantic city.

Day Two - Our first day exploring Venice

Today we woke up early and enjoyed breakfast next to the canal. The hotel we are staying is called Ca’Dagrossa and offers breakfast in the morning. It’s front façade faces the Canal di Canarregio and is not far from the mouth of it. The hotel is not in the tourist zone but sits in one of the city’s more historical areas, Cannaregio.

Today Canneregio is mostly residential and hosts a few colleges. More a central focus for those who take long holidays for weeks at a time, living in the city, the odd day travelling tourists still find their way. This area of the city hosts some very important historical landmarks. Among them is Ghetto Nuovo. Today, still a residential area and home to some of the remaining Venetian Jewish community, Ghetto Nuovo was set aside and inhabited by Spanish Jews escaping the Spanish Inquisition. Venice welcomed the Spanish Jewish community that emigrated there as they brought with them great wealth and excellent craftmanship. I had not realized that the Venetians funded their contributions to the Renaissance and their unequaled maritime trade networks through these influential Jewish families.

The Venetian Republic passed laws that allowed the new Venetian citizens to “invest” (the term lend is more commonly used) in Venetian trade enterprises and become patrons of the artworks but also Jewish artisans and craftsmen were commissioned to work on many public and private artworks, including some of the most famous Venetian churches. But the price of course was steep. Venetian Jews were not allowed to live beyond the Ghetto Nuovo boundary and on Venetian holidays (all Christian based) they were not allowed out of their homes.

Of course during the Mussolini years the ghetto became even more ominous and walls were put up to establish a more permanent boundary and turn the ghetto into a prison/ camp. Some of that history remains too.

We also walked through the streets, crossing many bridges to walk towards the Ponte Rialto. The Canal Grande was huge and there was a great deal of shipping that passes through it as one might imagine. From tiny rental speedboats to gondolas to freight barges and bigger. The day was unbearably hot and so we tried to stay out of the main thoroughfares. We walked down narrow sidestreets and alleys to traverse our way to the Plaza San Marco. The markets and small stores and fashion boutiques lined the outskirts of the plaza but itself was a large area packed with tourists. The day we went was considered a light day. It was crowded but nothing like the stories we had heard about where every path in to the plaza was a line and shoulder to shoulder. The Ducal Palace and Saint Marks Basilica was more beautiful than I imagined and movies do not do the whole plaza justice. The detail and opulence surpassed imagination. The use of marble alone was extensive and beautiful.

When you see pictures and movies you remember only the bright colors used and you half expect it to be a little overwhelming and gaudy. The opposite is true. Everything is on a scale that makes it all fit together and belong. The city is immaculate, the streets, the buildings, everything is clean. The buildings and bridges have an old rustic look but they are well kept.

For our first day it was an impressive walk and though it was super humid and very warm we enjoyed our stroll.

August 18 and 19: Getting to Venice

We took off from Seattle on British Airways heading to Venice via London. We left in the evening o August 18. The flight itself was not a long as we expected but the seats were worse than we imagined. We flew British Airway’s equivalent to Economy. The seats were tighter than I remember. Much more cramped. I think it was the first time I had flown with them since they introduced their intermediate seating level, which is World Traveller Plus. It’s a high-breed between the economy class and business class. Still the service was British Airways and the food very good. The plane was unusually warm, especially considering we flew over the North Pole to reach London. That route can get very cold at night. Not the case thise time. It was very close. I had noticed that all the individual air nozzles (per seat) were closed up. Not that I use them (I usually shut them off because they recycle the air) .

We arrived in London in good time and as usual the British Airways terminal (these days the brand new Heathrow Terminal 5) was painless to pass through. We caught the National Express bus line to Gatwick Airport, which was a pretty good transfer option. You catch it right outside of the Terminal 5 Arrivals entrance. Just before you leave the building there is a kiosk to purchase your bus pass. It takes about 40 minutes to get to Gatwick Airport’s North Terminal from Heathrow Terminal 5.

The weather was fairly warm for England and the bus air system didn’t seem to work either. But the transfer was very good and we drug our luggage (a lot as usual) off the bus to get in line to check in for our flight to Venice. I had gotten overheated again. But by the time we arrived at the Departures gate after grabbin a bite to eat and stopping by the Priority Pass Lounge to cool down, we were both good as new.

To our great surprise we entered the plane to see the seats were in the older configuration. There was tons of leg room and the seats were reasonably wide. At this point we were both exhausted and our thermostats were screwed up. But at least the plane was cooler.

I was not in the aisle seat but I could see the landscape below. Once we were over the Continental Europe we flew over hundreds of miles of flat plain and farmland. The farmland turned to hills and then all of a sudden of the starboard side of the plane the Alps appeared. I have flown over many mountain ranges and each of them before, that first time, had taken my breath away. This time was no different. They were nothing less than spectacular.

The flight was short and we arrived in Marco Polo Airport on time. The airport is not very big but it was very efficient and immigration and customs was relatively easy. We were both so hungry we stopped and got some food. We ate our first pizza (Forrest had something similar to a calzone). The crust was very thin (Forrest’s very thin bread) and neither was messy with only the freshest of toppings and ingredients. They were SOOOOO good and very light but satisfying.

From there we got our tickets for the Water Bus. We were a little confused and of course neither of us knew even elementary Italian even though we had promised ourselves to learn that asap. We got on the right line and were dropped off at the correct stop. The city is an island just off the coast and is a labyrinth of canals and waterways. Venice’s distinct character and famous buildings were intact and recognizable, even to two weary travelers such as ourselves and at night.

The city was extremely humid. But the magic of Venice hit us and we were more enthralled with its beauty at night to worry. From the bus stop there was just a short walk to the hotel which was lit up at night along the dark canal. The owner was waiting for us and checked us in despite our lack of Italian and his limited English. But then hospitality and gratitude are languages on their own and can be universal.

We got in our room, let everyone know we arrived and crashed after a long couple of days of travel.

Project Europa

Well tomorrow, August 18 we leave for Europe. The trip was originally on our list of things to do when we conceived of travelling but our travels have given us surprises, as has the last year and with that we were distracted with life and other travels to decide whether or not to consider doing it.

I won't speak for Forrest but Buenos Aires was the catalyst for me to want us to go to Europe and do a trip that will be a good finale for the last many months that turned out to be, surprisingly a year of travel. We will be adding to the blog this trip as before and stand by for more pictures too.

I took the lead on organizing this trip, as Forrest has done the previous ones. But of course he isnt good at standing idly by and so what started out as a solo project has become a joint project that we are very excited to enjoy.

Tomorrow we leave for Venice via London on British Airways. After five days in Venice we will travel by Holland America's Oosterdam for 24 days to ports throughout the Adriatic and Mediterranean finishing in Barcelona. We shall stay in Barcelona for 4 days then travel by train to Marseille. It is there where we will stay for two weeks before journeying to Hungary, the Czech Republic and Austria.

Buenos Aires June 3 to July 23

Since the day we arrived in Buenos Aires we fell in love with the city and the Portenos (people who live in Buenos Aires). The city is so impressive, full of life and energy. Standing in the middle of the city it isn't difficult to see that it has its own flavor in every conceivable way but especially in its architecture. Most would say that Buenos Aires is reminiscent of Paris, Rome and Barecelona with the density and vibe of Manhattan. It is that fact, its unique tapestry of architecture, vision and energy that makes Buenos Aires its own unique city with its own bragging rights. To be compared as "The Paris, Manhattan, etc of South America" is to really not do it justice. Portenos are proud of their heritage, their particular form of Spanish, and their city. That is resoundingly evident everyday.

We met some wonderful people while staying in the city for two months but even the people in the street, in random encounters, were warm, helpful and friendly. Some of our favorite places to visit were the markets in Plaza Francia and in San Telmo on the weekend. Recoleta cemetary was breathtaking with its city-like grid of mausoleums and "streets.' We enjoyed the Parillas, and cafes, medialunas in the afternoon (or empanadas), and late night meals.

In BA one typically doesn't eat before 10, go out to a bar before midnight (except for happy hour before dinner) or dance before 3 am. Portenos lovingly refer to themselves as vampires and the city could definately compete with Manhattan as the city that never sleeps.

And the shopping... well lets just say if you love leather goods (bags, shoes, coats, etc) no where is as inexpensive for some of the highest quality, unique styles, and reasonable priced (well for Europeans and those of us from North America). In fact most things were at least half the price of those back home.

To leave it we were sad. We wish we had stayed, an opinion shared by a friend who visited us, Sally. I wish we had better blogged our experiences in BA but take that as how much we loved the city and really immersed ourselves to the point we had no time to blog. If you get a chance go. We really don't think you will regret it.

Buenos Aires May 28 to June 2

Mom and Gram arrived.  Forrest has developed a cold, probably from a weakened immune due to the strong allergic reaction to the mold from the other apartment.  So we ran around trying to get him stuff to make him fight it.  We have gone grocery shopping and are settling in more.  

Mom and Gram arrived this morning after travelling a full day.  They were visibly tired but were in good spirits and wanted to go do something.  We were heading into downtown to American Express and so they went with us riding the Subway.  Afterwards we went grocery shopping again to cook in house the first night.

The next day we went and took the bus tour to see the city.  It's fairly new this particular service and is on a double decker bus.  They arent necessarily our favorite things to do (any of us) but the buses are new, clean, and have some neat audio systems that have 10 languages to choose from as you are guided through the city to see major sights. you  can get on and off as you like at the set stops.  You buy a two day pass.  We only ended up doing the one afternoon but we saw some neat areas that we want to go back to.   We went out and had dinner that evening, which is about the latest place to eat dinner we have been so far.  But we had a very good steak dinner and the service was great.   The theme in this city so far is great food, lots of transportation, good service and a very friendly people which is so unusual for such a large city as this.  

Saturday was rainy and so we stayed in.  The next day we headed to the Plaza Frances to go to see the Mausoleum which is an incredible site.  Its a massive "park" with blocks and blocks (almost a city itself) of crypts and mausoleums.  Each one different and ornate and having a unique theme.  I dont usually like things like that but this was definately an amazing thing to see.  Afterwards we headed into the street market.  There were people still setting up but a lot had already gotten their wares ready.  It was a very large market all outdoors with specific booths for people to claim.  It was fun to see all of the great stuff.  Some very unique handmade and then some things you could buy anywhere.  But mostly some great handicrafts.  Mom and i were becoming obsessed with the various Tango art.  

The next day we did errands and then in the evening decided to take Gram to the casino.  It is on two river boats parked next to each other.  It was an interesting complex but none of us were very impressed by how anything was paying.  While out the next day we decided to book a Tango show and then a trip over to Colonia, Uruguay by passenger ferry.  We are going to do those later this week.  More to come on those.  

Guayaquil to Buenos Aires May 25 - 28

After some quick respite in Guayaquil, Ecuador we got on a flight (LAN) to Buenos Aires.  The flight was not the best we have had on LAN (Very crowded, full flight and the seating wasnt the best).  Up to now we have been so happy, and still are, with LAN.  It was a long flight first to Santiago where we disembarked and then got back on the flight as it continued on to Buenos Aires.  The plane wasnt full and so we were able to spread out.  We were definately tired by the time we got in the next morning.

We were met by the manager of the apartment rental place (property management).  Forrest had reserved a nice spot between Recoletta and Palermo.  It was a great old building.  The elevator required you to open and close two doors for it to work.  The apartment itself was very cute and we quickly unpacked and settled in.  We were both tired and so didnt really push it that first night.  We wanted to start getting things set up before mom and gram arrived on thursday.  

We woke up the next morning and Forrest went to have a shower.  He was having a coughing fit.  He wasnt not feeling well.  Then i had my shower and had the same problem.  The bathroom had water damage (the manager had shared) but as we all thought it wasnt an issue in the end we found out that there was some serious mold and mildew issues going on in the bathroom and part of the master room.  We ended up calling the management firm and told them we needed to leave.  Forrest was getting sicker by the minute.  He is extremely allergic to mold and mildew and i discovered i was mildly.  I never saw him get so ill so quickly.  That is saying something. 

We had to pack up all our things and haul our stuff up the street 14 blocks closer to Barrio Norte.  The rental firm sent a very nice young woman to help us haul our stuff and call cabs.  (a slight issue in Buenos Aires).  The new apartment is more modern and is right on one of the main roads of the city.  It wasnt as quaint as the other but it was dry.  Since it was a smaller space we decided to rent a studio right next door to us.  It is cute but not very big.  But at least they have their own space but also are the room next door and so close.  We had to spend another day settling in.  We were so fed up we decided to stop and find a movie theater and to go see a movie.  We have been so behind in movies.  So we went to go see "Star Trek."  It was in Spanish Subtitles and was down by the docks.  There was a lot of restaurants down there and night clubs but neither of us was really in the mood for a late night.  We still had some "settling in " errands to finish before mom and gram arrived.

up to to now though we have met some very nice people and everyone here seems so helpful, and really nice.  Our limited Spanish is being put to the test as they have a very different dialect here.  You can tell they have a strong Italian influence. But as long as you try people are very understanding and helpful and willing to lend a hand.

Back to Guayaquil May 23 24

The next day Endeavor anchored off of the docks where this whole trip started.  We had spent the evening cruise with a huge barbeque and viewing the trip video that the videographer had made.  We also squeezed in some packing and preparing for the journey back to Guayaquil.

We zodiaked off the ship looking back at the boat that had been our home for one week.  She had been our tour guide to an archipeligo that was unique, full of surprises and wonders (sorry to sound cliche) and experiences none of us will forget.  I know i for one will relish every special moment, every animal i encountered who was a intrigued by me as i was by it.  The Galapagos has always been my dream trip and i am very thankful to have had the opportunity to experience it.  If i am lucky i will get to go  back again but if not the people i met and the animals who bedazzled me will forever stay as very fond memories.  It was like nothing we expected and in some ways it was exactly how we imagined.  

We arrived at the airport from the docks by coach bus and as usual Lindblad had it all organized like clockwork.  We had to do very little. Lindblad does amazing trips and i encourage anyone who is lucky enough to have the opportunity to go to not let it slip by.  It will be the most unique thing will do in its class and if you have a special occasion, one that will be unforgetable.

We arrived Guayaquil and everyone split ways.  In the end Forrest and i were the last to leave, heading off to Buenos Aires. We had a long flight ahead of us but with Machu Pichu and the Galapagos behind us we werent quite sure what BA would have to offer.  Though we are looking forward to a few weeks of respite and no travel.

Cerro Dragon, Sombrero Chino and bartolome May 21 and 22

We arrived in Cerro Dragon early and there was an option to get up before God again which this time i passed on.  Essentially it was a hike up 300+ steps to reach the top of a "peak" (more like hill) to over look a volcanic landscape that apparently was impressive.  If any of you have watched Master and Commander the movie there is a scene on it that was filmed from this vantage point.  

Later on we went to our last snorkel site on the same island.  First we did a wet landing and walked across the thin section of the island to reach the other beach.  Here we saw white tip reef sharks coming right up to the shallows of the beach, their dorsal fins wagging in the surf.  There had to be at least half a dozen.   Forrest and i had swam with these in several places and had no fear of them.  i was ankle deep in the water trying to get a good shot of the silhouette of the shark with their dorsal protuding but the shot never came.  There were very interesting rock formations on this side of the island and the beach was full of life (Sea Lions, birds, and crabs).  

We walked back over to the other beach where we were told to drop our snorkel gear.  This side was teaming with life also.  Penguins were on the hunt underwater and the diversity of fish their colors matched if not surpassed anything we have seen to date.  i even swam with a school of Damsel fish(if you have seen Finding Nemo, "Dori") that were as big as my torso and the prettiest blue with yellow tail fins.  They let me swim with them as they grazed on the bottow floor.

The next day was a peaceful day.  Up to now the staff kept us VERY busy.  This day we had our last outing on Bartolome, Friday.  Not many people took this excursion so Forrest, Helen and I went with three of the photographers and a naturalist.  We were a very small group and very specialized.  At this point (actually the day before) i had the photo bug.  i was enjoying taking photos and really looking how to get a different or best shot and asking LOTS of questions.  The photographers were being very good about it all.  And always helpful.  There were no new species and the trip was slow but very enjoyable as the seven of us meandered the island. I think the best part of it all was that we found the Sally Lightfoot Crabs doing mating dances and we found a female who was "airing" her "egg hatch" which was full of eggs.  We all got some good pictures of her.

Santa Cruz May 20

The next day we arrived at Santa Cruz.  It is on this island where the most people live.  Puerto Ayora is a small port community with quaint shops and avenues.  From the dock we walked up to Darwin Research Station.  It is from here that all of the many research studies and the restoration projects are directed.  There are hundreds  of scientists and naturalists working hard to preserve the bio-diversity and endemic species to these islands.  

Because of the islands unique geographic placement they have seen some interesting immigration and use of the islands.  From Pirates who hid amongst the island chains, to whalers and seafarers who stopped by for provisions (including Giant Torti who can survive without food or water for up to two years guaranteeing fresh meat on long voyages).  To these same seafarers and local colonizers who brought with them alien species that have put added pressure to the islands.  From goats, to cattle, to cats, dogs, rats and birds there are radical restoration projects underway to stop the decline of of the endemic species of plant and animal.  At the Darwin Station one of the more successful programs is repopulating islands of the Galapagos with their endemic species (or subspecies) of Giant Torti.  This includes the eradication of alienn species.  On island has been made pristine again through the culling of thousands of goats.  And the Torti project is just one of many that they are focusing on to turn the tide and preserve this world heritage site.

It was here that we saw the Giant Tortoise, the one species that for me defined the Galapagos the most and the one for which the archipeligo got its name. Meaning "saddle" the name refers to the saddle-like shape of some of the species of Giant Torti found on the islands.

My affinity for turtles is strong as many of you know.  This was the hightlight of this trip for me.  Being so close and being able to watch and touch them brought it all closer for me.  And to see the dozens of baby Torti they were successfully breeding was amazing.  Even i, who knew the importance of every one of those animals, wanted to take one home they were so cute.  

Isabela and Fernandina Islands - May 19

Today was a very slow day for myself.  I only did one of the three excursions offered but Forrest did them all.  We crossed over the equator northward and are now situated on the western edge of the archipeligo.  Early in the morning there was an announcement to the whole boat (5:30) that the ship was sailing past the western most edge of Fernandina Island.  This is the newest of all the islands (300,000 years old) and is the most volcanically active (last major volcanic activity three weeks  ago).  It looked like an island in turmoil and the edges of the shore were in this lateset area were covered in lava flow.  There was some life in amidst this but most of the life on this island was on the edges (marine).  

We were sailing along the coast because of the unique situation of this island.  It was literally balancing on the edge .  West only a little ways off was the edge of the continental shelf where the cold under current pushes up and meets the warm equatorial current (or counter current) sometimes creating marine fog and unusual cooler waters for this area.  These conditions create a literal soup of rich organisms that the animals take advantage of here in the Galapagos.  This side of the island is known for seeing a rich diversity of marine life (like whales, fish, etc) who can take advantage of these conditions.  

Later, after breakfast we headed back to Isabela to Punto Vicente Roca to take a Zodiak ride around the edges of this unique area of Isabela.  The largest of all the islands and the one that is shaped a little like a Seahorse, we were exploring around the head (northernmost).  We were not getting on the shore but the zodiak was taking us along it.  This is where we saw our first penquins (only one the rest were swimming we later found out) and the flightless Cormorant. 

We were then taken back to the ship to put on our snorkel gear and zodiaked back to those waters.  This was cool as the Penguins were swimming and fishing and were not afraid of us so we were in and amongst them.  A few of the Cormorants were in the water too.

The afternoon we were taken back to Fernandina on the northeastern tip.  It was here that we landed at Punta Espinosa.  This was a great outing as there was just so much to see.  Tons of flightless cormorants, snakes, marine iquanas by the hundreds (some swimming between little rocky out croppings, there were tidal pools (one even had a sea turtle in it).  The ground at the shore was ropy, pumicy hardened lava and so was super slick. Three photographers fell (backwards and always protecting their equipment).  They had some skinned and bruised knees though.  We saw a juvenile sea turtle, two Great Herons, tons of Sea Lions, Crabs and even a Hawk.  These shores were rich in wildlife.  This island had a good sized (if not young) mangrove just off of the lava field but it was starting to claim the lava too.  There was an endemic (which is incredible considering the youth of this island) Cactus that grows off of the lava.  It is the primary colonizer, and breaks the lava down into gritty sand readying it for the Secondary plants that come in and continue the process of creating soil.

Champion Island and Floreana May 18

Today was perhaps my favorite day so far!  Although it was perhaps the closest to the realities of nature that i have ever gotten.

The day started with us being taken by Zodiak (of course) to Champion Island.  A little larger than the other island we snorkeled "around."  This one was characterized by steep cliffs above and deep water below.  Perfect climate for?  you guessed it fishing.  No not us.  We got into the water to do our snorkel like good Lindblad cruisers and the magic happened immediately.  There were far more fish and far more variety and and there were underwater shelves closer to the shore before the sea floor dropped via walls down to deeper waters.  The marine life was colorful and varied near the walls and shelf. Just over the drop-off was where the "feeder" fish were in the thousands.  At first they kept their distance in their huge schools.

Then as i wished in my head that they would trust me (us) they moved directly at me and surrounded me.  It was as if i had willed myself into school.  Not so. They had figured out us humans were no threat (at least the ones around them now) and were using us as shields and cover.  The closest fish were no farther than one inch from me and they all crowded me for the "protection."  Protection it turned out from above.  No sooner had i wondered why so many of my fish "brethern" were trying to be below did the first Boobie, then the next and about a three other bird species were plunging around me (not four feet) from any part of me.  The target?  You guessed it all the fish now hiding by me and all the other snorkelers.  Our arrival had only interrupted the feeding briefly.  The sea birds now confident that we were like all the other big dumb mammals, not threat.  Were plunging all around us by the tens and twenties.  

It is fascinating to watch as they dive either from the cliffs or from the air (if they are aloft already).  They come at it at "break neck" speeds and plunge go about 36 inches and then do a 70 degree upturn back toward the surface, sometimes with or without a fish.  Meanwhile we are swimming, Sea Lions are in on the action and three peculiar fish.  A trumpetlike fish, juvenile Barracuda and some large silver fish i was never able to identify, were all hunting too.  In and around us was a feeding frenzy and none of it was disturbing. Oddly enough it was beautiful almost how synchronized everything seemed.  I mean not to sound disturbing but never did we feel we were in danger of a plunging collision or a misplaced canine (from a Sea Lion)  or whatever.  The animals were both ignoring us and using us.  Eventually we had to "drift" on around the island and leave the feeding waters.  

One of the animals i wanted to see while here was a Green Sea Turtle.  Very common i hear in these waters but being that they are among my favorite animals (my tatoo sake) i wanted to see one.  I was just thinking where might they be since i expected them to be hunting where everyone else was when the silent, graceful swimmers that they are one very large individual appeared out of the blue green behind and to my left and glided by me, within five feet to take a look at me.  It turned its head to look at me and then dove and turned to its left moving off as other snorkelers got in on my moment.  I was so excited.  I left the water after that.  Nothing else could make this snorkel better.  

In the afternoon we headed to Floreana Island.  This was a wet landing.  In a wet landing you jump into the water (calf deep) and wade into the beach.  Our groups gathered on the beach before heading in.  It was on this island we would see the Galapagos Great Flamingo (i didnt even know such a thing existed).  There is a huge mineral lake that has the perfect conditions for brine shrimp.  The main diet of flamingos and the reason they are pink.  There were not many on the lake on the island a few sparse individuals spread out but there were a few individuals who were close enough for some pictures.  

Floreana was arid like the other islands but had shrub and small trees throughout the landscape.  The island was very hilly and had volcanic activity like the other islands.  The paths were tight and had vegetation growing close on both sides.  More bushy and having an endemic daisy-like bush with brigh yellow flowers.  This island had quite a few endemic species of flowering bush which was unique from the other islands we had visited so far.  It was on this island that we saw the endemic Floreana island species of mocking bird (expert at stealing drinks from visitor's water bottles) and several finches and the endemic pollinator to the Galapagos Archipeligo, the Carpenter Bee.  

Further along on the trail was where we slammed right head on into the reality of mother nature.  Although we had this experience in the water our values were not challenged as we were prepared for fish to be on the course.  Our group had just walked around the corner onto the further beach where a scene was unfolding between Frigate Birds and baby Green Sea Turtles.  Two other groups were already further down the beach.  This spectacle was unfolding at this very moment for us.  All we knew was this further beach (on the opposite side of the island from where we landed) was where Sea Turtles came to lay eggs.  All over there were signs of their coming up on the beach, etc.  There were three very large Frigates diving at the same mound where there was from our perspective a little dimple in the ground.  We were all curious at this odd behavior when as we got closer we realized what was happening.  Baby turtles were emerging and making for the sea.  I dont know if any of you have seen the Mutual of Omaha episode way back when but i remember it as a kid and it was disturbing then.  In fact i seem to remember myself as an 8 year old being distraught.  Here i was witnessing my favorite animal as prey.  One after another the babies emerged and were pick up by a swooping Frigate.  We watched as a squirming baby turtle was in the beak of a uplifting bird.  Not one baby emerged past the mound.  The dimple was too high up on the dune for us to see the babies come out.  Our only indicator was the success of the Frigates given light by the prey in their mouths.

The naturalists immediately called the other groups over at first we thought to witness this but in fact it was to rally more naturalists to protect what was going on.  I dont think there was any danger of anyone in our group trying to stop it although  we were all disturbed and heartbroken for the baby turtles.  The naturalists kept us at a distance and kept asking us not to disturb what was going on.  They were afraid one of us might turn turtle zealot and start throwing rocks at the Frigates.  None of us did and the scene stopped as quickly as it started.  Not because we were there but the swooping attempts were having less success which indicated to us that the few babies that had hatched early (supposed to be evening) were now depleted.  

Our group headed back towards the other beach trying to workout the scene we had been witness to.  We got back in our Zodiak and headed back to the ship.  On the way our Naturalist tried to talk about why what happened was good (something about turtles are supposed to hatch at night so the Frigates were eating defective turtles).  On the way to the ship the Zodiak driver spotted dolphins in the distance.  The naturalist gave the go ahead and we followed a pod of about 80 Bottle-nosed Dolphins.  Forrest got the only shot of an individual jumping out of the water in mid-air.  They were jumping everywhere. But it was Forrest's shot that recorded the moment (the pic attached) one jumping in mid air.  They were jumping everywhere and all around us and we must have ridden among them for a good 20 minutes.  Cameras and fingers were pointing in every direction.  And mothers guided their babies over to look at us at speeds you would not have thought possible for an animal that young.  

We headed back to the ship on being recalled by the captain.  All of us happy and amazed and contemplating the three scenes we had witnessed that day.  Our small group had scene three very different things regarding the realities of nature that day.  A good reminder but one not sad nor sobering but rather spiritual almost.  I had thought back at the moment with the Sea Turtle in the morning and realized there really was a "Circle of Life" not that i had not believed  before but that cliche had become just that something too familiar and abstract.  Now it was real.  I thought about id and Forrest and I talked about it.  It had been a good day.