Guayaquil, Endeavor and North Seymour - May 15, 16

Forrest and I had arrived the day before in Guayaquil.  Lindblad had set everyone up for one night (two for us)  in the fancy hotel not too far from downtown or from the airport. I have to say they are extremely organized and good at crowd control. We ate dinner at the hotel as they had a German buffet going on.  It was really good.  Unfortunately it was the best meal we had there as the other few times we ate there the food was only so so.  

We had gone into town to eat, etc and just to get a feel for the city.  The next morning we were planning on going back down to Malecon 2000 (the boardwalk) to have a bigger stroll and people watch while we waited for Helen to fly in for the trip.  At about 9 am we got a call in our room and a very bright and excited voice on the other end said, "ready to go?"  It was Helen.  She had actually arrived the day before (evening).  So we ate breakfast and planned our day.  The first thing we did was went to the artesan mercado just off of the the Malecon.  Helen wanted to shop for home and we went along.  We had already done our shopping in Olatambo in the highlands but it was fun to see the market in Guayaquil.  

After the market we headed over to the Malecon 2000, a huge boardwalk with theme areas all along it.  It hugs the river to the sea and it is beautifully kept and very impressive.  Everyone in town seems to use it on the weekend.  We strolled along its bank while Helen took pictures.  Helen is an amazing photographer and there was just so much to take pictures of.  She was like a kid in a candy store.  

We stopped off at this bar in the middle of the Malecon (the only one in that area) to have a drink and a quick bite to eat.  We had walked a while and decided to head back.  Helen and i had booked a spa in the salon.  Afterwards we ate dinner and then sat in the lounge to people watch and guess who was going to be on our boat.  Since it was an early wake up the next day we decided to call it an early evening.

The wake up call was 5 am.  We got packed and ready and down stairs by 6am for the communal breakfast buffet for the Lindblad group.  Again they had it all organized.  Some of us had to leave luggage in storage and we tagged the luggage we were taking.  After finishing our breakfast we gathered in the huge foyer and lounge and waited for our transportation to the airport.  The check out was handled (save any indiscrepencies on any bill) and then the passes were handed out for the transport.  On the bus they gave us the details of what to expect and by the time we got to the airport our luggage had been checked in as well as us.  (They could do that since it was a domestic flight withing Ecuador).  We went through security as a group and waited at the terminal for the shortest time and then loaded onto the plane.  Clockwork and very well planned.  Forrest and I were impressed.  But we just wanted to say anyone who goes on our "Friends and Family" trips dont get any ideas.  :)

The flight was just about two hours and was very pleasant.  As we landed on Baltra Island (the small island where the airport and port is built) we were fumugated and stepped onto biohazzard neutralizer solution.  Oh and inside the plane they opened all the upward luggage holds and fumagated them too.  Odd experience but it was all in name of protecting the endemic flora and fauna.    So when we grow an extra arm in a year we know what was the cause.  

From the airport we took off in buses to the dock.  A very small dock where resident sea lions were lounging all around.  They were our official "welcoming" committee.  Unfortunately they were on an extended break when we were arrived.  There were a few iguanas and Sally-lightfoot Crabs too.  Course at that point we knew them as "oooooo pretty red and blue crab."  We would get "edumacated" fairly quickly.

From the dock we would take our very first ride of MANY on a Zodiak out to the ship, The National Geographic Endeavor.  On these expedition cruises we go to some remote spots because the boat is so small but that means we are landing on lava or sand or something in between.  That means Zodiaks.  Not the usual tenders anyone who has been on a trip with us before are used to.  It makes it fun but there are some a little more technical mount and dismount rules/ procedures.  Nothing grueling just safety.  

Once in the Endeavor we were surprised at our cabins (which were ready and had our luggage waiting) at what a decent size they were.  Forrest and i had two picture windows.  Gorgeous view.  (there were no verandahs).  The ship is very scientific looking from the outside and hence very spartan.  But inside the dining area is large and quite wonderful and there is a forward lounge where our expedition "talks" and "briefings" would occur.  It had a fully stocked bar.  On the upper deck there was a nice sized library and next to that a gym, spa salon and the medical bay.  That opened out to the equipment deck where one gets prepared for a snorkel.  

The bridge was always open to guests and there was a pool (sort of deep wading pool).  The boat was more than comfortable and we had a personal care kit and chocolates awaiting us in our cabins.

Once we got settled we had a quick "briefing" about our voyage and our afternoon.  We were to land on North Seymour Island.  It was to be a "dry" landing and a good walk.  Perfect introductory to our Galapagos "expedition."  We were told we had a choice each "outing" between going with a "Naturalist" groups or the "Photo safari" groups.  The Naturalist groups had naturalist and left first.  they focused on what was being seen and gave a history of the island. they moved a little faster than the photo groups.  the photo groups had both a naturalist and a photographer.  these groups moved slower and were last off the ship.  for the purpose of those interested, taking pictures.  

You see the expedition we signed up for was a special one.  it had four photographers (all contractual and some who worked with National Geographic).  There jobs on board was to help people improve their photography (specifically as it relates to nature photography).  So the classes on board were centered around the hobby of photography.  not everyone on board was there for this purpose.  about half just wanted to see the wildlife.  They photographers, some were naturalists/ scientists themselves.  So you got a lot of expertise from the biological perspective.  

Forrest and I decided to do the "naturalist" group and Helen went with the "photograpy" group.  Neither of knew what to expect when going to the Galapagos.  I guess in my mind i imagined lots of bushes and trees and a lush tropical (equator) environ with flecks of volcanic activity (sort of like a Hawaii).  

the reality is it is very marine, very volcanic and very desertlike.  A lot of the islands have lava scarring, and the biome and climate is very arid.  You have trees and cacti and bushes that are quite clearly drought tolerant.  The soils varied from island to island.  North Seymour was very arid.  Where we landed was fairly flat (most areas you go are on a set nature path just over a mile long and they usually traverse inland and along the shore) and there was evidence of long since happened lava flow.  The shore was rocky and very pumicey (if that is  a word).  

North Seymour was the land of the birds.  Yes there were Iguana and yes there were coastal life like the Sea Lions, etc but in shear terms of numbers we were here to see the famous Blue-footed Booby and the Frigate Birds (Both Great and Magnificent varieties).  Both were in varying degrees of courtship.  The birds on the outer area of the island were definately still going through courtship.  The dances were pretty cool and the fact that we were invading their space had little effect on their behaviour.  I know my biologist or even scientist friends in general will argue that point but i would say that the interference is unusually unnoticeable considering how close we were to EVERYTHING.   As we moved close into the island that is where we started seeing Boobies on eggs and parents with newly hatched chicks.  There was definately a clear demarkation of where the best nest sites were.  And the early bird in this case mates and hatches eggs first.

The Frigate birds (both varieties) were on the bushes around us while the Boobies were ground nesters).  The males had their big red pouches fully inflated.  This was their way of attracting mates.  You will see pictures of the pouches inflated and you will notice that they can fly with these huge swellings under their neck.  

What was amazing about this first encounter for us was the reality that we WERE going to get very close to these animals that were famous and integral to one of the most controversial and yet in terms of academic circles, widely accepted theories on biological diversity. The mechanics are argued but the basic concept seems to be the holy tome for most in the many and varied fields of biology.  And here we were walking with feet, and some inches, of the very species that inspired one of those few, but world shaking "aha!" moments.  Yes other things were at play, etc.  

The animals were not afraid.  They were as the naturalists described "naive."  They ignored us.  Sea Lions were most intrigued and the Lava Lizards (the smallest reptile on the islands) were bold.  But every other animal eyed us nothing more.  We knew at this moment were in a very special place. More so than we had believed and why most of us were drawn here.   The animals had not known to fear humans or large mammals for that matter.  A very rare situation and one where you get a good feeling.  Yes, today, the Galapagos are in danger because of invasive species (we will blog about that later).  There is good energy in the Galapagos and Forrest, and Helen and I were feeling it.  The animals and plants were going to effect us as well as the landscape much more deeply than we had anticipated.  Not like the Machu Pichu trip had but in a very different way.