The tale of two Samoas

We were not sure what to expect in either Samoa. Wednesday we arrived in Pago Pago. Everything was lush and tropical. We walked through town, which did not take long. It was evident it was a different world (for example, in the town’s only bank, it looked like the DMV. You had to take a number and wait, fortunately, we only needed an ATM). Everyone was surprisingly friendly, and everyone would honk and wave! About noon, we headed for Tisa’s Barefoot Bar, located about 20 minutes out of town. It was a bar built out of materials found on the beach, with laid back staff south pacific style. Lee and Dana wanted a tattoo, so they talked to the Tisa to see if she knew which island was a good place to get it. Tisa soon had the island’s master tattoo artist at the bar and Lee and Dana got tattoo right in the middle of the bar, with a crowd watching. The tattoo master, Wilson, did a fantastic job and talked about the fact tattoos originated in Samoa. Tisa brought out her guitar and serenaded the boys as they got their tattoos. Lee and Dana discovered the local beer. We capped off the night with a Samoa feast we reserved ahead of time. I have to admit, most south pacific food I have had previously has not impressed me, but wow, this was good eating The preparation took over eight hours, with rocks heated in the fire and then layers of food and banana leaves to lock in the moisture. We had lamb (the best), chicken, prawns, squid, turkey, breadfruit, all sorts of bananas, fish stew in coconut milks, taro leaves in coconut milk, all eaten with your hands. He granddaughters then put on a dance show for us. The food was wonderful! It was an incredible way to cap off the day. Tisa’s bar is amazing as Tisa. She is calm, loving and so indescribable. If you ever stop in American Samoa, this is the place.

Thursday was Samoa, or commonly known as Western Samoa. We had high hopes after American Samoa. It did not take us long to find that the joys of this island must be harder to reach. Our day started with 100 cab drivers all in a line, each in turn asking if we needed a cab. The road out of the port was tight and one ongoing cab driver used his mirror to literally push Lee out of the way (I was horrified). We decided soon after to only cross following a local. The city was hot and muggy and tourists were definite prey. We visited the Apia’s main market and it was fascinating, with tropical fruits all laid out and all sorts of food, all sitting next to giant tubs of hair gel (must be the humidity J). We soon headed back to the ship. Once back onboard, the thrusters came on and a tug soon appeared to keep the ship against the pier due to strong currents and wind. Hats off to the captain and crew, it was a tight harbor and we had to do a 360 to get out later that day.

Last night we passed the international date line, so it is Saturday here as of this posting. We just got a warning of a dengue fever outbreak in Fiji, so we were all issued mosquito repellant. For all I have heard of Fiji, this will probably not be the way to see it. We are visiting Suva, the capital. It is the only spot in Fiji they tell you not to visit. It is also Sunday, so most shops will be closed. We have signed up for a rain forest walk with the ship (it would have been good to hear about the dengue fever before), but it should be a lovely trip none the less.

I am off to lounge by the pool. We miss everyone and take care!