August 18 and 19: Getting to Venice

We took off from Seattle on British Airways heading to Venice via London. We left in the evening o August 18. The flight itself was not a long as we expected but the seats were worse than we imagined. We flew British Airway’s equivalent to Economy. The seats were tighter than I remember. Much more cramped. I think it was the first time I had flown with them since they introduced their intermediate seating level, which is World Traveller Plus. It’s a high-breed between the economy class and business class. Still the service was British Airways and the food very good. The plane was unusually warm, especially considering we flew over the North Pole to reach London. That route can get very cold at night. Not the case thise time. It was very close. I had noticed that all the individual air nozzles (per seat) were closed up. Not that I use them (I usually shut them off because they recycle the air) .

We arrived in London in good time and as usual the British Airways terminal (these days the brand new Heathrow Terminal 5) was painless to pass through. We caught the National Express bus line to Gatwick Airport, which was a pretty good transfer option. You catch it right outside of the Terminal 5 Arrivals entrance. Just before you leave the building there is a kiosk to purchase your bus pass. It takes about 40 minutes to get to Gatwick Airport’s North Terminal from Heathrow Terminal 5.

The weather was fairly warm for England and the bus air system didn’t seem to work either. But the transfer was very good and we drug our luggage (a lot as usual) off the bus to get in line to check in for our flight to Venice. I had gotten overheated again. But by the time we arrived at the Departures gate after grabbin a bite to eat and stopping by the Priority Pass Lounge to cool down, we were both good as new.

To our great surprise we entered the plane to see the seats were in the older configuration. There was tons of leg room and the seats were reasonably wide. At this point we were both exhausted and our thermostats were screwed up. But at least the plane was cooler.

I was not in the aisle seat but I could see the landscape below. Once we were over the Continental Europe we flew over hundreds of miles of flat plain and farmland. The farmland turned to hills and then all of a sudden of the starboard side of the plane the Alps appeared. I have flown over many mountain ranges and each of them before, that first time, had taken my breath away. This time was no different. They were nothing less than spectacular.

The flight was short and we arrived in Marco Polo Airport on time. The airport is not very big but it was very efficient and immigration and customs was relatively easy. We were both so hungry we stopped and got some food. We ate our first pizza (Forrest had something similar to a calzone). The crust was very thin (Forrest’s very thin bread) and neither was messy with only the freshest of toppings and ingredients. They were SOOOOO good and very light but satisfying.

From there we got our tickets for the Water Bus. We were a little confused and of course neither of us knew even elementary Italian even though we had promised ourselves to learn that asap. We got on the right line and were dropped off at the correct stop. The city is an island just off the coast and is a labyrinth of canals and waterways. Venice’s distinct character and famous buildings were intact and recognizable, even to two weary travelers such as ourselves and at night.

The city was extremely humid. But the magic of Venice hit us and we were more enthralled with its beauty at night to worry. From the bus stop there was just a short walk to the hotel which was lit up at night along the dark canal. The owner was waiting for us and checked us in despite our lack of Italian and his limited English. But then hospitality and gratitude are languages on their own and can be universal.

We got in our room, let everyone know we arrived and crashed after a long couple of days of travel.

Project Europa

Well tomorrow, August 18 we leave for Europe. The trip was originally on our list of things to do when we conceived of travelling but our travels have given us surprises, as has the last year and with that we were distracted with life and other travels to decide whether or not to consider doing it.

I won't speak for Forrest but Buenos Aires was the catalyst for me to want us to go to Europe and do a trip that will be a good finale for the last many months that turned out to be, surprisingly a year of travel. We will be adding to the blog this trip as before and stand by for more pictures too.

I took the lead on organizing this trip, as Forrest has done the previous ones. But of course he isnt good at standing idly by and so what started out as a solo project has become a joint project that we are very excited to enjoy.

Tomorrow we leave for Venice via London on British Airways. After five days in Venice we will travel by Holland America's Oosterdam for 24 days to ports throughout the Adriatic and Mediterranean finishing in Barcelona. We shall stay in Barcelona for 4 days then travel by train to Marseille. It is there where we will stay for two weeks before journeying to Hungary, the Czech Republic and Austria.

Buenos Aires June 3 to July 23

Since the day we arrived in Buenos Aires we fell in love with the city and the Portenos (people who live in Buenos Aires). The city is so impressive, full of life and energy. Standing in the middle of the city it isn't difficult to see that it has its own flavor in every conceivable way but especially in its architecture. Most would say that Buenos Aires is reminiscent of Paris, Rome and Barecelona with the density and vibe of Manhattan. It is that fact, its unique tapestry of architecture, vision and energy that makes Buenos Aires its own unique city with its own bragging rights. To be compared as "The Paris, Manhattan, etc of South America" is to really not do it justice. Portenos are proud of their heritage, their particular form of Spanish, and their city. That is resoundingly evident everyday.

We met some wonderful people while staying in the city for two months but even the people in the street, in random encounters, were warm, helpful and friendly. Some of our favorite places to visit were the markets in Plaza Francia and in San Telmo on the weekend. Recoleta cemetary was breathtaking with its city-like grid of mausoleums and "streets.' We enjoyed the Parillas, and cafes, medialunas in the afternoon (or empanadas), and late night meals.

In BA one typically doesn't eat before 10, go out to a bar before midnight (except for happy hour before dinner) or dance before 3 am. Portenos lovingly refer to themselves as vampires and the city could definately compete with Manhattan as the city that never sleeps.

And the shopping... well lets just say if you love leather goods (bags, shoes, coats, etc) no where is as inexpensive for some of the highest quality, unique styles, and reasonable priced (well for Europeans and those of us from North America). In fact most things were at least half the price of those back home.

To leave it we were sad. We wish we had stayed, an opinion shared by a friend who visited us, Sally. I wish we had better blogged our experiences in BA but take that as how much we loved the city and really immersed ourselves to the point we had no time to blog. If you get a chance go. We really don't think you will regret it.

Buenos Aires May 28 to June 2

Mom and Gram arrived.  Forrest has developed a cold, probably from a weakened immune due to the strong allergic reaction to the mold from the other apartment.  So we ran around trying to get him stuff to make him fight it.  We have gone grocery shopping and are settling in more.  

Mom and Gram arrived this morning after travelling a full day.  They were visibly tired but were in good spirits and wanted to go do something.  We were heading into downtown to American Express and so they went with us riding the Subway.  Afterwards we went grocery shopping again to cook in house the first night.

The next day we went and took the bus tour to see the city.  It's fairly new this particular service and is on a double decker bus.  They arent necessarily our favorite things to do (any of us) but the buses are new, clean, and have some neat audio systems that have 10 languages to choose from as you are guided through the city to see major sights. you  can get on and off as you like at the set stops.  You buy a two day pass.  We only ended up doing the one afternoon but we saw some neat areas that we want to go back to.   We went out and had dinner that evening, which is about the latest place to eat dinner we have been so far.  But we had a very good steak dinner and the service was great.   The theme in this city so far is great food, lots of transportation, good service and a very friendly people which is so unusual for such a large city as this.  

Saturday was rainy and so we stayed in.  The next day we headed to the Plaza Frances to go to see the Mausoleum which is an incredible site.  Its a massive "park" with blocks and blocks (almost a city itself) of crypts and mausoleums.  Each one different and ornate and having a unique theme.  I dont usually like things like that but this was definately an amazing thing to see.  Afterwards we headed into the street market.  There were people still setting up but a lot had already gotten their wares ready.  It was a very large market all outdoors with specific booths for people to claim.  It was fun to see all of the great stuff.  Some very unique handmade and then some things you could buy anywhere.  But mostly some great handicrafts.  Mom and i were becoming obsessed with the various Tango art.  

The next day we did errands and then in the evening decided to take Gram to the casino.  It is on two river boats parked next to each other.  It was an interesting complex but none of us were very impressed by how anything was paying.  While out the next day we decided to book a Tango show and then a trip over to Colonia, Uruguay by passenger ferry.  We are going to do those later this week.  More to come on those.  

Guayaquil to Buenos Aires May 25 - 28

After some quick respite in Guayaquil, Ecuador we got on a flight (LAN) to Buenos Aires.  The flight was not the best we have had on LAN (Very crowded, full flight and the seating wasnt the best).  Up to now we have been so happy, and still are, with LAN.  It was a long flight first to Santiago where we disembarked and then got back on the flight as it continued on to Buenos Aires.  The plane wasnt full and so we were able to spread out.  We were definately tired by the time we got in the next morning.

We were met by the manager of the apartment rental place (property management).  Forrest had reserved a nice spot between Recoletta and Palermo.  It was a great old building.  The elevator required you to open and close two doors for it to work.  The apartment itself was very cute and we quickly unpacked and settled in.  We were both tired and so didnt really push it that first night.  We wanted to start getting things set up before mom and gram arrived on thursday.  

We woke up the next morning and Forrest went to have a shower.  He was having a coughing fit.  He wasnt not feeling well.  Then i had my shower and had the same problem.  The bathroom had water damage (the manager had shared) but as we all thought it wasnt an issue in the end we found out that there was some serious mold and mildew issues going on in the bathroom and part of the master room.  We ended up calling the management firm and told them we needed to leave.  Forrest was getting sicker by the minute.  He is extremely allergic to mold and mildew and i discovered i was mildly.  I never saw him get so ill so quickly.  That is saying something. 

We had to pack up all our things and haul our stuff up the street 14 blocks closer to Barrio Norte.  The rental firm sent a very nice young woman to help us haul our stuff and call cabs.  (a slight issue in Buenos Aires).  The new apartment is more modern and is right on one of the main roads of the city.  It wasnt as quaint as the other but it was dry.  Since it was a smaller space we decided to rent a studio right next door to us.  It is cute but not very big.  But at least they have their own space but also are the room next door and so close.  We had to spend another day settling in.  We were so fed up we decided to stop and find a movie theater and to go see a movie.  We have been so behind in movies.  So we went to go see "Star Trek."  It was in Spanish Subtitles and was down by the docks.  There was a lot of restaurants down there and night clubs but neither of us was really in the mood for a late night.  We still had some "settling in " errands to finish before mom and gram arrived.

up to to now though we have met some very nice people and everyone here seems so helpful, and really nice.  Our limited Spanish is being put to the test as they have a very different dialect here.  You can tell they have a strong Italian influence. But as long as you try people are very understanding and helpful and willing to lend a hand.

Back to Guayaquil May 23 24

The next day Endeavor anchored off of the docks where this whole trip started.  We had spent the evening cruise with a huge barbeque and viewing the trip video that the videographer had made.  We also squeezed in some packing and preparing for the journey back to Guayaquil.

We zodiaked off the ship looking back at the boat that had been our home for one week.  She had been our tour guide to an archipeligo that was unique, full of surprises and wonders (sorry to sound cliche) and experiences none of us will forget.  I know i for one will relish every special moment, every animal i encountered who was a intrigued by me as i was by it.  The Galapagos has always been my dream trip and i am very thankful to have had the opportunity to experience it.  If i am lucky i will get to go  back again but if not the people i met and the animals who bedazzled me will forever stay as very fond memories.  It was like nothing we expected and in some ways it was exactly how we imagined.  

We arrived at the airport from the docks by coach bus and as usual Lindblad had it all organized like clockwork.  We had to do very little. Lindblad does amazing trips and i encourage anyone who is lucky enough to have the opportunity to go to not let it slip by.  It will be the most unique thing will do in its class and if you have a special occasion, one that will be unforgetable.

We arrived Guayaquil and everyone split ways.  In the end Forrest and i were the last to leave, heading off to Buenos Aires. We had a long flight ahead of us but with Machu Pichu and the Galapagos behind us we werent quite sure what BA would have to offer.  Though we are looking forward to a few weeks of respite and no travel.

Cerro Dragon, Sombrero Chino and bartolome May 21 and 22

We arrived in Cerro Dragon early and there was an option to get up before God again which this time i passed on.  Essentially it was a hike up 300+ steps to reach the top of a "peak" (more like hill) to over look a volcanic landscape that apparently was impressive.  If any of you have watched Master and Commander the movie there is a scene on it that was filmed from this vantage point.  

Later on we went to our last snorkel site on the same island.  First we did a wet landing and walked across the thin section of the island to reach the other beach.  Here we saw white tip reef sharks coming right up to the shallows of the beach, their dorsal fins wagging in the surf.  There had to be at least half a dozen.   Forrest and i had swam with these in several places and had no fear of them.  i was ankle deep in the water trying to get a good shot of the silhouette of the shark with their dorsal protuding but the shot never came.  There were very interesting rock formations on this side of the island and the beach was full of life (Sea Lions, birds, and crabs).  

We walked back over to the other beach where we were told to drop our snorkel gear.  This side was teaming with life also.  Penguins were on the hunt underwater and the diversity of fish their colors matched if not surpassed anything we have seen to date.  i even swam with a school of Damsel fish(if you have seen Finding Nemo, "Dori") that were as big as my torso and the prettiest blue with yellow tail fins.  They let me swim with them as they grazed on the bottow floor.

The next day was a peaceful day.  Up to now the staff kept us VERY busy.  This day we had our last outing on Bartolome, Friday.  Not many people took this excursion so Forrest, Helen and I went with three of the photographers and a naturalist.  We were a very small group and very specialized.  At this point (actually the day before) i had the photo bug.  i was enjoying taking photos and really looking how to get a different or best shot and asking LOTS of questions.  The photographers were being very good about it all.  And always helpful.  There were no new species and the trip was slow but very enjoyable as the seven of us meandered the island. I think the best part of it all was that we found the Sally Lightfoot Crabs doing mating dances and we found a female who was "airing" her "egg hatch" which was full of eggs.  We all got some good pictures of her.

Santa Cruz May 20

The next day we arrived at Santa Cruz.  It is on this island where the most people live.  Puerto Ayora is a small port community with quaint shops and avenues.  From the dock we walked up to Darwin Research Station.  It is from here that all of the many research studies and the restoration projects are directed.  There are hundreds  of scientists and naturalists working hard to preserve the bio-diversity and endemic species to these islands.  

Because of the islands unique geographic placement they have seen some interesting immigration and use of the islands.  From Pirates who hid amongst the island chains, to whalers and seafarers who stopped by for provisions (including Giant Torti who can survive without food or water for up to two years guaranteeing fresh meat on long voyages).  To these same seafarers and local colonizers who brought with them alien species that have put added pressure to the islands.  From goats, to cattle, to cats, dogs, rats and birds there are radical restoration projects underway to stop the decline of of the endemic species of plant and animal.  At the Darwin Station one of the more successful programs is repopulating islands of the Galapagos with their endemic species (or subspecies) of Giant Torti.  This includes the eradication of alienn species.  On island has been made pristine again through the culling of thousands of goats.  And the Torti project is just one of many that they are focusing on to turn the tide and preserve this world heritage site.

It was here that we saw the Giant Tortoise, the one species that for me defined the Galapagos the most and the one for which the archipeligo got its name. Meaning "saddle" the name refers to the saddle-like shape of some of the species of Giant Torti found on the islands.

My affinity for turtles is strong as many of you know.  This was the hightlight of this trip for me.  Being so close and being able to watch and touch them brought it all closer for me.  And to see the dozens of baby Torti they were successfully breeding was amazing.  Even i, who knew the importance of every one of those animals, wanted to take one home they were so cute.  

Isabela and Fernandina Islands - May 19

Today was a very slow day for myself.  I only did one of the three excursions offered but Forrest did them all.  We crossed over the equator northward and are now situated on the western edge of the archipeligo.  Early in the morning there was an announcement to the whole boat (5:30) that the ship was sailing past the western most edge of Fernandina Island.  This is the newest of all the islands (300,000 years old) and is the most volcanically active (last major volcanic activity three weeks  ago).  It looked like an island in turmoil and the edges of the shore were in this lateset area were covered in lava flow.  There was some life in amidst this but most of the life on this island was on the edges (marine).  

We were sailing along the coast because of the unique situation of this island.  It was literally balancing on the edge .  West only a little ways off was the edge of the continental shelf where the cold under current pushes up and meets the warm equatorial current (or counter current) sometimes creating marine fog and unusual cooler waters for this area.  These conditions create a literal soup of rich organisms that the animals take advantage of here in the Galapagos.  This side of the island is known for seeing a rich diversity of marine life (like whales, fish, etc) who can take advantage of these conditions.  

Later, after breakfast we headed back to Isabela to Punto Vicente Roca to take a Zodiak ride around the edges of this unique area of Isabela.  The largest of all the islands and the one that is shaped a little like a Seahorse, we were exploring around the head (northernmost).  We were not getting on the shore but the zodiak was taking us along it.  This is where we saw our first penquins (only one the rest were swimming we later found out) and the flightless Cormorant. 

We were then taken back to the ship to put on our snorkel gear and zodiaked back to those waters.  This was cool as the Penguins were swimming and fishing and were not afraid of us so we were in and amongst them.  A few of the Cormorants were in the water too.

The afternoon we were taken back to Fernandina on the northeastern tip.  It was here that we landed at Punta Espinosa.  This was a great outing as there was just so much to see.  Tons of flightless cormorants, snakes, marine iquanas by the hundreds (some swimming between little rocky out croppings, there were tidal pools (one even had a sea turtle in it).  The ground at the shore was ropy, pumicy hardened lava and so was super slick. Three photographers fell (backwards and always protecting their equipment).  They had some skinned and bruised knees though.  We saw a juvenile sea turtle, two Great Herons, tons of Sea Lions, Crabs and even a Hawk.  These shores were rich in wildlife.  This island had a good sized (if not young) mangrove just off of the lava field but it was starting to claim the lava too.  There was an endemic (which is incredible considering the youth of this island) Cactus that grows off of the lava.  It is the primary colonizer, and breaks the lava down into gritty sand readying it for the Secondary plants that come in and continue the process of creating soil.

Champion Island and Floreana May 18

Today was perhaps my favorite day so far!  Although it was perhaps the closest to the realities of nature that i have ever gotten.

The day started with us being taken by Zodiak (of course) to Champion Island.  A little larger than the other island we snorkeled "around."  This one was characterized by steep cliffs above and deep water below.  Perfect climate for?  you guessed it fishing.  No not us.  We got into the water to do our snorkel like good Lindblad cruisers and the magic happened immediately.  There were far more fish and far more variety and and there were underwater shelves closer to the shore before the sea floor dropped via walls down to deeper waters.  The marine life was colorful and varied near the walls and shelf. Just over the drop-off was where the "feeder" fish were in the thousands.  At first they kept their distance in their huge schools.

Then as i wished in my head that they would trust me (us) they moved directly at me and surrounded me.  It was as if i had willed myself into school.  Not so. They had figured out us humans were no threat (at least the ones around them now) and were using us as shields and cover.  The closest fish were no farther than one inch from me and they all crowded me for the "protection."  Protection it turned out from above.  No sooner had i wondered why so many of my fish "brethern" were trying to be below did the first Boobie, then the next and about a three other bird species were plunging around me (not four feet) from any part of me.  The target?  You guessed it all the fish now hiding by me and all the other snorkelers.  Our arrival had only interrupted the feeding briefly.  The sea birds now confident that we were like all the other big dumb mammals, not threat.  Were plunging all around us by the tens and twenties.  

It is fascinating to watch as they dive either from the cliffs or from the air (if they are aloft already).  They come at it at "break neck" speeds and plunge go about 36 inches and then do a 70 degree upturn back toward the surface, sometimes with or without a fish.  Meanwhile we are swimming, Sea Lions are in on the action and three peculiar fish.  A trumpetlike fish, juvenile Barracuda and some large silver fish i was never able to identify, were all hunting too.  In and around us was a feeding frenzy and none of it was disturbing. Oddly enough it was beautiful almost how synchronized everything seemed.  I mean not to sound disturbing but never did we feel we were in danger of a plunging collision or a misplaced canine (from a Sea Lion)  or whatever.  The animals were both ignoring us and using us.  Eventually we had to "drift" on around the island and leave the feeding waters.  

One of the animals i wanted to see while here was a Green Sea Turtle.  Very common i hear in these waters but being that they are among my favorite animals (my tatoo sake) i wanted to see one.  I was just thinking where might they be since i expected them to be hunting where everyone else was when the silent, graceful swimmers that they are one very large individual appeared out of the blue green behind and to my left and glided by me, within five feet to take a look at me.  It turned its head to look at me and then dove and turned to its left moving off as other snorkelers got in on my moment.  I was so excited.  I left the water after that.  Nothing else could make this snorkel better.  

In the afternoon we headed to Floreana Island.  This was a wet landing.  In a wet landing you jump into the water (calf deep) and wade into the beach.  Our groups gathered on the beach before heading in.  It was on this island we would see the Galapagos Great Flamingo (i didnt even know such a thing existed).  There is a huge mineral lake that has the perfect conditions for brine shrimp.  The main diet of flamingos and the reason they are pink.  There were not many on the lake on the island a few sparse individuals spread out but there were a few individuals who were close enough for some pictures.  

Floreana was arid like the other islands but had shrub and small trees throughout the landscape.  The island was very hilly and had volcanic activity like the other islands.  The paths were tight and had vegetation growing close on both sides.  More bushy and having an endemic daisy-like bush with brigh yellow flowers.  This island had quite a few endemic species of flowering bush which was unique from the other islands we had visited so far.  It was on this island that we saw the endemic Floreana island species of mocking bird (expert at stealing drinks from visitor's water bottles) and several finches and the endemic pollinator to the Galapagos Archipeligo, the Carpenter Bee.  

Further along on the trail was where we slammed right head on into the reality of mother nature.  Although we had this experience in the water our values were not challenged as we were prepared for fish to be on the course.  Our group had just walked around the corner onto the further beach where a scene was unfolding between Frigate Birds and baby Green Sea Turtles.  Two other groups were already further down the beach.  This spectacle was unfolding at this very moment for us.  All we knew was this further beach (on the opposite side of the island from where we landed) was where Sea Turtles came to lay eggs.  All over there were signs of their coming up on the beach, etc.  There were three very large Frigates diving at the same mound where there was from our perspective a little dimple in the ground.  We were all curious at this odd behavior when as we got closer we realized what was happening.  Baby turtles were emerging and making for the sea.  I dont know if any of you have seen the Mutual of Omaha episode way back when but i remember it as a kid and it was disturbing then.  In fact i seem to remember myself as an 8 year old being distraught.  Here i was witnessing my favorite animal as prey.  One after another the babies emerged and were pick up by a swooping Frigate.  We watched as a squirming baby turtle was in the beak of a uplifting bird.  Not one baby emerged past the mound.  The dimple was too high up on the dune for us to see the babies come out.  Our only indicator was the success of the Frigates given light by the prey in their mouths.

The naturalists immediately called the other groups over at first we thought to witness this but in fact it was to rally more naturalists to protect what was going on.  I dont think there was any danger of anyone in our group trying to stop it although  we were all disturbed and heartbroken for the baby turtles.  The naturalists kept us at a distance and kept asking us not to disturb what was going on.  They were afraid one of us might turn turtle zealot and start throwing rocks at the Frigates.  None of us did and the scene stopped as quickly as it started.  Not because we were there but the swooping attempts were having less success which indicated to us that the few babies that had hatched early (supposed to be evening) were now depleted.  

Our group headed back towards the other beach trying to workout the scene we had been witness to.  We got back in our Zodiak and headed back to the ship.  On the way our Naturalist tried to talk about why what happened was good (something about turtles are supposed to hatch at night so the Frigates were eating defective turtles).  On the way to the ship the Zodiak driver spotted dolphins in the distance.  The naturalist gave the go ahead and we followed a pod of about 80 Bottle-nosed Dolphins.  Forrest got the only shot of an individual jumping out of the water in mid-air.  They were jumping everywhere. But it was Forrest's shot that recorded the moment (the pic attached) one jumping in mid air.  They were jumping everywhere and all around us and we must have ridden among them for a good 20 minutes.  Cameras and fingers were pointing in every direction.  And mothers guided their babies over to look at us at speeds you would not have thought possible for an animal that young.  

We headed back to the ship on being recalled by the captain.  All of us happy and amazed and contemplating the three scenes we had witnessed that day.  Our small group had scene three very different things regarding the realities of nature that day.  A good reminder but one not sad nor sobering but rather spiritual almost.  I had thought back at the moment with the Sea Turtle in the morning and realized there really was a "Circle of Life" not that i had not believed  before but that cliche had become just that something too familiar and abstract.  Now it was real.  I thought about id and Forrest and I talked about it.  It had been a good day.