Champion Island and Floreana May 18

Today was perhaps my favorite day so far!  Although it was perhaps the closest to the realities of nature that i have ever gotten.

The day started with us being taken by Zodiak (of course) to Champion Island.  A little larger than the other island we snorkeled "around."  This one was characterized by steep cliffs above and deep water below.  Perfect climate for?  you guessed it fishing.  No not us.  We got into the water to do our snorkel like good Lindblad cruisers and the magic happened immediately.  There were far more fish and far more variety and and there were underwater shelves closer to the shore before the sea floor dropped via walls down to deeper waters.  The marine life was colorful and varied near the walls and shelf. Just over the drop-off was where the "feeder" fish were in the thousands.  At first they kept their distance in their huge schools.

Then as i wished in my head that they would trust me (us) they moved directly at me and surrounded me.  It was as if i had willed myself into school.  Not so. They had figured out us humans were no threat (at least the ones around them now) and were using us as shields and cover.  The closest fish were no farther than one inch from me and they all crowded me for the "protection."  Protection it turned out from above.  No sooner had i wondered why so many of my fish "brethern" were trying to be below did the first Boobie, then the next and about a three other bird species were plunging around me (not four feet) from any part of me.  The target?  You guessed it all the fish now hiding by me and all the other snorkelers.  Our arrival had only interrupted the feeding briefly.  The sea birds now confident that we were like all the other big dumb mammals, not threat.  Were plunging all around us by the tens and twenties.  

It is fascinating to watch as they dive either from the cliffs or from the air (if they are aloft already).  They come at it at "break neck" speeds and plunge go about 36 inches and then do a 70 degree upturn back toward the surface, sometimes with or without a fish.  Meanwhile we are swimming, Sea Lions are in on the action and three peculiar fish.  A trumpetlike fish, juvenile Barracuda and some large silver fish i was never able to identify, were all hunting too.  In and around us was a feeding frenzy and none of it was disturbing. Oddly enough it was beautiful almost how synchronized everything seemed.  I mean not to sound disturbing but never did we feel we were in danger of a plunging collision or a misplaced canine (from a Sea Lion)  or whatever.  The animals were both ignoring us and using us.  Eventually we had to "drift" on around the island and leave the feeding waters.  

One of the animals i wanted to see while here was a Green Sea Turtle.  Very common i hear in these waters but being that they are among my favorite animals (my tatoo sake) i wanted to see one.  I was just thinking where might they be since i expected them to be hunting where everyone else was when the silent, graceful swimmers that they are one very large individual appeared out of the blue green behind and to my left and glided by me, within five feet to take a look at me.  It turned its head to look at me and then dove and turned to its left moving off as other snorkelers got in on my moment.  I was so excited.  I left the water after that.  Nothing else could make this snorkel better.  

In the afternoon we headed to Floreana Island.  This was a wet landing.  In a wet landing you jump into the water (calf deep) and wade into the beach.  Our groups gathered on the beach before heading in.  It was on this island we would see the Galapagos Great Flamingo (i didnt even know such a thing existed).  There is a huge mineral lake that has the perfect conditions for brine shrimp.  The main diet of flamingos and the reason they are pink.  There were not many on the lake on the island a few sparse individuals spread out but there were a few individuals who were close enough for some pictures.  

Floreana was arid like the other islands but had shrub and small trees throughout the landscape.  The island was very hilly and had volcanic activity like the other islands.  The paths were tight and had vegetation growing close on both sides.  More bushy and having an endemic daisy-like bush with brigh yellow flowers.  This island had quite a few endemic species of flowering bush which was unique from the other islands we had visited so far.  It was on this island that we saw the endemic Floreana island species of mocking bird (expert at stealing drinks from visitor's water bottles) and several finches and the endemic pollinator to the Galapagos Archipeligo, the Carpenter Bee.  

Further along on the trail was where we slammed right head on into the reality of mother nature.  Although we had this experience in the water our values were not challenged as we were prepared for fish to be on the course.  Our group had just walked around the corner onto the further beach where a scene was unfolding between Frigate Birds and baby Green Sea Turtles.  Two other groups were already further down the beach.  This spectacle was unfolding at this very moment for us.  All we knew was this further beach (on the opposite side of the island from where we landed) was where Sea Turtles came to lay eggs.  All over there were signs of their coming up on the beach, etc.  There were three very large Frigates diving at the same mound where there was from our perspective a little dimple in the ground.  We were all curious at this odd behavior when as we got closer we realized what was happening.  Baby turtles were emerging and making for the sea.  I dont know if any of you have seen the Mutual of Omaha episode way back when but i remember it as a kid and it was disturbing then.  In fact i seem to remember myself as an 8 year old being distraught.  Here i was witnessing my favorite animal as prey.  One after another the babies emerged and were pick up by a swooping Frigate.  We watched as a squirming baby turtle was in the beak of a uplifting bird.  Not one baby emerged past the mound.  The dimple was too high up on the dune for us to see the babies come out.  Our only indicator was the success of the Frigates given light by the prey in their mouths.

The naturalists immediately called the other groups over at first we thought to witness this but in fact it was to rally more naturalists to protect what was going on.  I dont think there was any danger of anyone in our group trying to stop it although  we were all disturbed and heartbroken for the baby turtles.  The naturalists kept us at a distance and kept asking us not to disturb what was going on.  They were afraid one of us might turn turtle zealot and start throwing rocks at the Frigates.  None of us did and the scene stopped as quickly as it started.  Not because we were there but the swooping attempts were having less success which indicated to us that the few babies that had hatched early (supposed to be evening) were now depleted.  

Our group headed back towards the other beach trying to workout the scene we had been witness to.  We got back in our Zodiak and headed back to the ship.  On the way our Naturalist tried to talk about why what happened was good (something about turtles are supposed to hatch at night so the Frigates were eating defective turtles).  On the way to the ship the Zodiak driver spotted dolphins in the distance.  The naturalist gave the go ahead and we followed a pod of about 80 Bottle-nosed Dolphins.  Forrest got the only shot of an individual jumping out of the water in mid-air.  They were jumping everywhere. But it was Forrest's shot that recorded the moment (the pic attached) one jumping in mid air.  They were jumping everywhere and all around us and we must have ridden among them for a good 20 minutes.  Cameras and fingers were pointing in every direction.  And mothers guided their babies over to look at us at speeds you would not have thought possible for an animal that young.  

We headed back to the ship on being recalled by the captain.  All of us happy and amazed and contemplating the three scenes we had witnessed that day.  Our small group had scene three very different things regarding the realities of nature that day.  A good reminder but one not sad nor sobering but rather spiritual almost.  I had thought back at the moment with the Sea Turtle in the morning and realized there really was a "Circle of Life" not that i had not believed  before but that cliche had become just that something too familiar and abstract.  Now it was real.  I thought about id and Forrest and I talked about it.  It had been a good day.  

Isla Espanola and Gardner Bay May 17

Day 2 of our Galapagos trip landed us on Isla Espanola at Punta Suarez.  We were up at  7 am for this very special island.  Richer in wildlife and a rarity we were in for a special treat.  We were there for the Waved Albatros.  One of the largest Albatros in the world.  These birds standing easily stood at three feet.  They are so large that they often incur injury landing and they can only take off from higher ground (cliff).  They are beautiful birds and their size is difficult to show by camera.  

Espanola was in contrast a lot more lush but still arid in its type of plant life to North Seymour.  There were Blue-footed Boobies here and Frigates but this island also housed the Masked Boobie.  Similar to its cousin with blue feet the pure white plumage is replaced by a brown mask  over its eyes and brown on its back.  

My favorite bird became the swallow-tailed gull.  A grey bird with a black head.  elegant in its flight.  We saw more Iguana, crabs and sea-lions.

In the afternoon we moored just off a small Island named Gardner Bay.  We were zodiaked out to a spot where we could snorkel.  There were some great fish but the best part of it all was a colony of Galapagos Sea Lions were there and they were in a playful mood.  They swam in and out of the group.  Two large pups were playing a game of "Tail Splash" with Forrest.  He being the kid he is was pretty good at the game to the pups delight.  They would swim by fast and then swish their back flippers so that water would splash from the surface and hit him in the face.  He waited for them to surface and then he would contort in the water and do the same.  He was the last out of the water onto the zodiak because he kept this up for at least half an hour.  he came out of the water with a big grin and the pups surfaced near the zodiak almost begging him to come back and play.  i swear there could have been tears in their eyes.  

Guayaquil, Endeavor and North Seymour - May 15, 16

Forrest and I had arrived the day before in Guayaquil.  Lindblad had set everyone up for one night (two for us)  in the fancy hotel not too far from downtown or from the airport. I have to say they are extremely organized and good at crowd control. We ate dinner at the hotel as they had a German buffet going on.  It was really good.  Unfortunately it was the best meal we had there as the other few times we ate there the food was only so so.  

We had gone into town to eat, etc and just to get a feel for the city.  The next morning we were planning on going back down to Malecon 2000 (the boardwalk) to have a bigger stroll and people watch while we waited for Helen to fly in for the trip.  At about 9 am we got a call in our room and a very bright and excited voice on the other end said, "ready to go?"  It was Helen.  She had actually arrived the day before (evening).  So we ate breakfast and planned our day.  The first thing we did was went to the artesan mercado just off of the the Malecon.  Helen wanted to shop for home and we went along.  We had already done our shopping in Olatambo in the highlands but it was fun to see the market in Guayaquil.  

After the market we headed over to the Malecon 2000, a huge boardwalk with theme areas all along it.  It hugs the river to the sea and it is beautifully kept and very impressive.  Everyone in town seems to use it on the weekend.  We strolled along its bank while Helen took pictures.  Helen is an amazing photographer and there was just so much to take pictures of.  She was like a kid in a candy store.  

We stopped off at this bar in the middle of the Malecon (the only one in that area) to have a drink and a quick bite to eat.  We had walked a while and decided to head back.  Helen and i had booked a spa in the salon.  Afterwards we ate dinner and then sat in the lounge to people watch and guess who was going to be on our boat.  Since it was an early wake up the next day we decided to call it an early evening.

The wake up call was 5 am.  We got packed and ready and down stairs by 6am for the communal breakfast buffet for the Lindblad group.  Again they had it all organized.  Some of us had to leave luggage in storage and we tagged the luggage we were taking.  After finishing our breakfast we gathered in the huge foyer and lounge and waited for our transportation to the airport.  The check out was handled (save any indiscrepencies on any bill) and then the passes were handed out for the transport.  On the bus they gave us the details of what to expect and by the time we got to the airport our luggage had been checked in as well as us.  (They could do that since it was a domestic flight withing Ecuador).  We went through security as a group and waited at the terminal for the shortest time and then loaded onto the plane.  Clockwork and very well planned.  Forrest and I were impressed.  But we just wanted to say anyone who goes on our "Friends and Family" trips dont get any ideas.  :)

The flight was just about two hours and was very pleasant.  As we landed on Baltra Island (the small island where the airport and port is built) we were fumugated and stepped onto biohazzard neutralizer solution.  Oh and inside the plane they opened all the upward luggage holds and fumagated them too.  Odd experience but it was all in name of protecting the endemic flora and fauna.    So when we grow an extra arm in a year we know what was the cause.  

From the airport we took off in buses to the dock.  A very small dock where resident sea lions were lounging all around.  They were our official "welcoming" committee.  Unfortunately they were on an extended break when we were arrived.  There were a few iguanas and Sally-lightfoot Crabs too.  Course at that point we knew them as "oooooo pretty red and blue crab."  We would get "edumacated" fairly quickly.

From the dock we would take our very first ride of MANY on a Zodiak out to the ship, The National Geographic Endeavor.  On these expedition cruises we go to some remote spots because the boat is so small but that means we are landing on lava or sand or something in between.  That means Zodiaks.  Not the usual tenders anyone who has been on a trip with us before are used to.  It makes it fun but there are some a little more technical mount and dismount rules/ procedures.  Nothing grueling just safety.  

Once in the Endeavor we were surprised at our cabins (which were ready and had our luggage waiting) at what a decent size they were.  Forrest and i had two picture windows.  Gorgeous view.  (there were no verandahs).  The ship is very scientific looking from the outside and hence very spartan.  But inside the dining area is large and quite wonderful and there is a forward lounge where our expedition "talks" and "briefings" would occur.  It had a fully stocked bar.  On the upper deck there was a nice sized library and next to that a gym, spa salon and the medical bay.  That opened out to the equipment deck where one gets prepared for a snorkel.  

The bridge was always open to guests and there was a pool (sort of deep wading pool).  The boat was more than comfortable and we had a personal care kit and chocolates awaiting us in our cabins.

Once we got settled we had a quick "briefing" about our voyage and our afternoon.  We were to land on North Seymour Island.  It was to be a "dry" landing and a good walk.  Perfect introductory to our Galapagos "expedition."  We were told we had a choice each "outing" between going with a "Naturalist" groups or the "Photo safari" groups.  The Naturalist groups had naturalist and left first.  they focused on what was being seen and gave a history of the island. they moved a little faster than the photo groups.  the photo groups had both a naturalist and a photographer.  these groups moved slower and were last off the ship.  for the purpose of those interested, taking pictures.  

You see the expedition we signed up for was a special one.  it had four photographers (all contractual and some who worked with National Geographic).  There jobs on board was to help people improve their photography (specifically as it relates to nature photography).  So the classes on board were centered around the hobby of photography.  not everyone on board was there for this purpose.  about half just wanted to see the wildlife.  They photographers, some were naturalists/ scientists themselves.  So you got a lot of expertise from the biological perspective.  

Forrest and I decided to do the "naturalist" group and Helen went with the "photograpy" group.  Neither of knew what to expect when going to the Galapagos.  I guess in my mind i imagined lots of bushes and trees and a lush tropical (equator) environ with flecks of volcanic activity (sort of like a Hawaii).  

the reality is it is very marine, very volcanic and very desertlike.  A lot of the islands have lava scarring, and the biome and climate is very arid.  You have trees and cacti and bushes that are quite clearly drought tolerant.  The soils varied from island to island.  North Seymour was very arid.  Where we landed was fairly flat (most areas you go are on a set nature path just over a mile long and they usually traverse inland and along the shore) and there was evidence of long since happened lava flow.  The shore was rocky and very pumicey (if that is  a word).  

North Seymour was the land of the birds.  Yes there were Iguana and yes there were coastal life like the Sea Lions, etc but in shear terms of numbers we were here to see the famous Blue-footed Booby and the Frigate Birds (Both Great and Magnificent varieties).  Both were in varying degrees of courtship.  The birds on the outer area of the island were definately still going through courtship.  The dances were pretty cool and the fact that we were invading their space had little effect on their behaviour.  I know my biologist or even scientist friends in general will argue that point but i would say that the interference is unusually unnoticeable considering how close we were to EVERYTHING.   As we moved close into the island that is where we started seeing Boobies on eggs and parents with newly hatched chicks.  There was definately a clear demarkation of where the best nest sites were.  And the early bird in this case mates and hatches eggs first.

The Frigate birds (both varieties) were on the bushes around us while the Boobies were ground nesters).  The males had their big red pouches fully inflated.  This was their way of attracting mates.  You will see pictures of the pouches inflated and you will notice that they can fly with these huge swellings under their neck.  

What was amazing about this first encounter for us was the reality that we WERE going to get very close to these animals that were famous and integral to one of the most controversial and yet in terms of academic circles, widely accepted theories on biological diversity. The mechanics are argued but the basic concept seems to be the holy tome for most in the many and varied fields of biology.  And here we were walking with feet, and some inches, of the very species that inspired one of those few, but world shaking "aha!" moments.  Yes other things were at play, etc.  

The animals were not afraid.  They were as the naturalists described "naive."  They ignored us.  Sea Lions were most intrigued and the Lava Lizards (the smallest reptile on the islands) were bold.  But every other animal eyed us nothing more.  We knew at this moment were in a very special place. More so than we had believed and why most of us were drawn here.   The animals had not known to fear humans or large mammals for that matter.  A very rare situation and one where you get a good feeling.  Yes, today, the Galapagos are in danger because of invasive species (we will blog about that later).  There is good energy in the Galapagos and Forrest, and Helen and I were feeling it.  The animals and plants were going to effect us as well as the landscape much more deeply than we had anticipated.  Not like the Machu Pichu trip had but in a very different way.  

Olatambo and the Equatorial Line

Well our last two days in Quito were very cool.  My favorite days here.  We called the guy up who drove us from the airport (you have to be very careful with the taxi drivers.)   VERY careful.  he was not available for the day we wanted to go to the Equator.  It was a 45 minute drive there and then back again.  We had to agree on a price for half a day.  He timed it to the minute too.

Anyway he took us to the offiicial monument.  The story is that Ecuador is the only place in the world where the equator goes across highland.  A group of french came in the 1800s and using math and instruments they measured where the equator was.  Some Quechua told them that the the equator was actually several meters over from where they measured it.

Well they built a huge monument (and subsequent park around it all) to mark it.  Next door to this park is a very understated, hard to find, but very cool park that marks where the Quechua(Inka) marked the equator and which was later confirmed by GPS as the actual equator line.  Both sites coexist next to each other and compliment each other.  To the french credit they were not too far off.  The two sites could not be more contrasting.  The french site is grandiose and amusement park whilst the Quechua site is a living museum of the tribes who lived in the area (not just Quechua).  It is also a science lab for how gravity and physics work differently at and on either side of the line.   We stayed too long at this second site (it was just so much fun) so our cab driver came to fetch us.   he was really adept at making us feel guilty even though we were paying him extra.  

That night we decided to hire the guy who drove us from the airport for our all day trip to Olatambo.  This is where the famous indigenous textile market is held every day with the big one being on saturday.  we missed the saturday market but still wanted to see what it was all about.  Forrest loves markets more than i do.  It was a two drive each way but our driver was fine letting us stay as long as we wanted.  he was so much different than the other guy.  

We had a great time and though we were not expecting to buy much we ended up buying a duffle (that Forrest bought from an alpaca dealer) to carry everything we bought.  things were so cheap.  Much less than any of the dealings we did in any market anywhere else.  And the quality of everything we bought was unequaled.   We had a great time and a very enjoyable day.  IF you go to Quito make sure you take the time to go to Olatambo.  You dont need to have a private driver like us.  You can take a bus.  

The Teleferico

We decided to do go up the Teleferico (a cable car).  It goes up to about 12,000 feet up the side of the volcano that sits over the valley and the city of Quito.  It was a pleasant ride but it climbed pretty steep.  Neither of realized how fast until we are at the top.   The view was spectacular.  There wasnt much at the top.  It seemed as thought there were great plans for it but they ran out of money.  But they are still building things like a small hotel and some cabin bungalows.  The volcano and lava beds are pretty cool.  There is a trail that you can hike up to the crater.  Neither of us were up for that and we really didnt have time as it was a several hour ordeal.  Forrest started feeling the effects of the altitude so we decided to cut our losses before he got too bad.  

It was a nice afternoon.

Quito, Ecuador - Old Town May 8 to 10

We arrived in Quito yesterday and had about a day to adjust.  We landed at 9000 feet and had to readjust to the altitude.  It was a little easier this time for both of us.  We rested after getting to the hotel and then went to the market down the street.  We looked around but wanted to wait and do our shopping at Olatambo in a few days.  We will be in Quito for about week to explore it. 

We explored a museum or two and got a feel for this part of town (new district).  It was difficult to figure it out and to get a feel.  Quito doesnt offer itself up like other cities we have been to but one thing is for sure there are people here from everywhere and although at first we thought the people here were not as friendly it soon became evident it was just that they were not as outgoing in general as the Peruvians.  Ecuadorians are actually very warm people.  

We went into Old Town which was the first World Heritage Site and of course still is.  The buildings were amazing.  It was like being dropped into the middle of an old Italian/Spanish/ Southern France town with tight streets and winding streets and boulevards.  The architecture was beautiful.  We were there on a weekend and the whole town was down in the main squares.  Families were gathering with extended families and friends.  It has been our most enjoyable time while travelling in Latin America to go to the Plazas of the towns we visit.  They really are the lifeblood of the city.  Any city we have visited anyway.  Whether weekend, holiday, festival or just a simple pleasant evening.  It is where people gather.  And the old town district of Quito was no different.

After enjoying a wonderful lunch at an outside cafe on the square, we found a shop that works for sustainable practices and fair trade.  Then Forrest had heard that one of the great cathedrals was one considered the "Cistine Chapel" of the Americas.  We found it one block over from the main square.  We didnt know if it was accessible at first but the guards let us through the iron gates.  When we walked inside both of us gasped in awe.  I am hit and miss when it comes to churches and feeling spiritual energy and Forrest says he tends not to but we were both in agreement this cathedral was full of some kind of spirit.  Especially one of the chapels which we later found out was where the Saint and patron of the church was buried.  The architecture outside was a baroque and the inside was completely guilded with gold.  It sounds gaudy describing it like that but the reality is it is nothing short of spectacular.  Of course that is not the reason why it is so spiritually inviting.  

The scale, the history, everything together made it all not too much if that makes any sense.  I know i went back to the chapel at least four times.  i havent had that kind of experience since Westminster's Chapel for Poets.

Anyway we really enjoyed our visit in old town and want to go back during the week to visit.

The Nazca Lines - May 4-6

I hate mornings, especially wake up calls at 3am. My bus leaves the station at 4:15am. Did I say I hate mornings. Lee is staying in Lima, warm and comfy in bed. In the end, but bus was great. I had a nice big first class seat reclining almost to level for all of $28 for a seven hour ride. I slept through most of it, peering out at the desert from time to time. I arrived in the town of Nazca and walked a few blocks to my hotel. As soon as I checked in, I muttered “I want to see the line”. The desk organizes a flight for 3pm. I am now relieved. At 2:30pm they call me and say they do not have enough people for the flight, do I want to reschedule or head to the airport to see if they can find two more people. Needless to say, I was on my way to the airport pronto. They found the two people and we boarded the small plane holding six people including the pilot. They handed out 13 gallon plastic bags, indicating there was plenty of room if we got sick. The flight started off bouncy, but soon stabilized. The woman next me clutched her bag but avoided using it (although she thought about it). We then started passing the figures in the sand. The pilot turned the plane so the right windows faced down and then repeated the gesture for the left. The figures were very clear (we were lucky, some days they are hard to spot). I had a grin ear-to-ear the whole time. I am pretty lucky in this life.
           The figures are a combination of human accomplishment and a natural wonder. They are older than 0 BC. No one knows how the people built these figures and lines without modern technology, some the line stretch for miles straight as an arrow. I believe “with the help of aliens” runs high on the list of possible explanations. The desert is one of the driest places on earth, it is rainless and the heat baked into the sand, releases at night, saving the ground from the wind. You can see stream channels that have not seen rain for 2000 years, but are perfectly preserved. Even the car tracks from 1920’s can easily be seen. Everything is perfectly preserved, when normally the lines would have been erased quickly by the elements. 

The Sacred Valley -- May 2

After a day of recovery from the Inka Trail, Forrest was ready to see more of Cuzco.  He and I had talked to Peggy (the owner of the hotel we are staying in) and also some other guests and they insisted we should go see more of the Sacred Valley.  Both of us had seen parts of it on our separate journeys to Machu Pichu.  The most popular way to see the valley was by tour bus.  Anyone who knows us will tell you that we are not fond of tours, especially tours by bus.  They usually are a whirlwind of sites with little or no substance at each stop.  But we set our prejudices aside and decided that we would give it a try.  The Inka bug had bitten us after seeing Machu Pichu.  We wanted  to see more sites.   

We stopped in Pucapucara, Tambomachay, Sacsahuaman and Qenko and it was a whirlwind of a trip a total of 10 hours.  The buses in Peru are VERY comfortable and top of the line.  And the ruins were definately worth seeing.  One site after another gave you a good idea of the scale, stretch, organization and shear skill of the Inka (or Quechua).  Forrest and I have had several conversations after seeing the forts, citadels, towns, etc and most are built into mountains and completely self-sufficient.   A siege just would not work to conquer them.  From the history books, the stories of the locals and the guides all have led us to believe that had the Inka not suffered a very bloody civil war weakening their hold on the other city states in the empire the Spanish would never have had a chance.  But it was history that happened and not idyl speculation.  Still one sure is sure, the ruins of the sacred valley only reinforced what we already thought, the Inka were amazing administrators, "scientists" and architects.

We were exhausted after the trip but both of us would say it was worth it.  But it also reinforced our dislike of tours. But we saw terrain and biomes neither of us had yet encountered.  Of the many conclusions, impressions and feelings you gain from a trip to the highlands of the Peru at the very heart of the Quechua Empire (Inka) it is that there were just so many resources of water, and arable land without the technologies of terracing.  The natural valleys between mountain peaks alone could feed a modern nation, much less an ancient one.  I think most of us would be very surprised to see the degree of arable land and extensive agriculture two, three miles above sea level and not only that but year round.  

The architecture in the Sacred Valley was no less impressive or any less well constructed.  It all reinforced the perceptions one gains on the way to Machu Pichu by train or by foot.  It was a long day but a good one.  As our pics will show when we finally post them.

Machu Pichu

Everyone woke up extra early so that we could get into the park before the regular tourists who come into town, Machu Pichu Pueblo, on the trains.   I had come into town the previous day to meet up with the Inca Trail group that Forrest was with.  The previous evening we had all congregated at the Hot Springs so that they could soak their sores and reminisce about the trail.  

The morning was beautiful and the bus ride up to the ruins from town as gripping as ever.  Imagine going up a mountain full of switch-backs on a one lane road at 90 kph.  It's definately an extreme experience.  When the bus arrives at the entrance to the "park" there is a waiting area for all the groups going into the park.  There were not many when we arrived as only a few are given early entry.  The waiting area is where the famous lodge sits and then off to the right of the bus drop off lies the bathrooms and above those on the second level the restaurant and other facilities.

Once our group was situated and ready we entered the ruins and made our way to the where the "sacred rock."  Most of the ruins face a pristine mountain that is almost perfect in its shape.  Both Forrest and I could not keep our eyes off of it. The neutral feeling we both talked about was gone.  We were now feeling that strange energy you feel when you are in a sacred place.  At the heart of the ruins it began.  We couldnt figure out why we were so drawn to that mountain, until our guide informed us that it was "the" sacred mountain.  When we got to the Sacred Rock it had a similar shape to the mountain top.  

As we walked through the grounds we would walk through interesting constructions (perfectly cut and  fitted).  There were a few more sacred sites but also some interesting technologies like small circular shallow wells that when filled with water reflected the night sky and were used to chart the constellations. There was a room with stone insets that were accoustically attuned so that when you stuck your head in them and someone whispered in another you could here them. 

By afternoon the park was beginning to get busier as the first trains arrived.  Although the country is immaculate, especially the park, you do notice that there is wear and tear that is happening.  They do an excellent job at maintaining it but you do get some obnoxious people not following the rules.  They actually have a park warden with a whistle who blows it at people when they do silly stuff.  

Some sites have an effect on you (The condor temple, etc) others dont but one thing does catch you everytime and that is the scenery around the complex and strategic points within it.  The scenery around it is at a scale hard to imagine.  Even having been to Alaska where the mountains meet the water the scale of the peaks and the landscape dwarf everything and its all green and lush.  

We ended our day in Machu Pichu sitting on a steppe, talking and staring out at the "Sacred Mountain."  The guides may tell you it was an administrative center for trade, which you do not doubt just from its placement and the fact that all "trails" lead there.  But some how you feel that it isnt the only story.  Others may tell you it was a retreat for the elite, maybe so but there was too much else there to have only been the elite to live there.  The sheer scale, placement and thoughtfulness that went into the city not to mention the powerful feeling, energy whatever you want to call it that DOES reside throughout the main complex eludes to the fact that Machu Pichu was many things and its importance to the "Inca" and to people today who are drawn to its mysteries and its mystique and somehow effects our imagination and awe are the only facts we can count on in regards to this special place.  

Machu Pichu has an effect on you no matter what your agenda for visiting it is.  We each gained something from this trip and what was even more interesting, while observing everyone else you could tell each of them were having their own special experience too.

Machu Pichu continued

Inca Trail Continued
  
 
Day 3 and 12,200 feet
I am a little better this morning, but still winded as I am packing after the 6:30am wake up call. Today, our tour diverges from the pack, as we are on a five day tour, rather than a four day tour, which allows us more time to see the ruins along the trail. We head up the next pass, stopping at an Inca trail station (think of it as hotel/pony express/supply post – you find these about every 5 to 6 miles along the trail). We pick up a rock to carry to the next pass, to ask the mountain gods for a good trek. I am still quickly out of breath, but I stay within 15 minutes of the group all day. From this point on we are on the actual original Inca trail the rest of the way, the trail is much improved compared to the modern day one and impressive considering this little rock path is over 500 years old winding its way through high mountain passes. Compare this to our major highways in the mountains that get washed out every five or ten years on Rainier or Verlot.
 
We are learning more about the Inca. Our guide says the Inca used all technologies, but invented none. They can easily be compared to the Romans. Inca also proves to be a misnomer, the Quechua people called their king the Inca, in actuality the civilization should be called the Quechua, which still exist today in Peru and is the language is still spoken. As I catch my breath, I notice something strange. I expected to feel sacred ground, you know the strange feeling you get in some churches or sacred sites. I feel none of this. The guide keeps saying the Inca were administrators, which makes sense as there appears to be little that is sacred along the trail. He said Machu Picchu was built as an administrative center to control the cocoa trade.
 
Day 3 & 12,500 feet
We climbed the second pass and by noon descended down to lunch in a swampy area. The trail is beautiful, lush cloud forest and a trail that changes from clinging to a mountain to tunneling through rich cloud forest (think Olympic Peninsula) to swampy areas. We hit another set of ruins just before lunch. We were introduced to the first Inca temple. It was explained to us that the Inca/Quechua worshiped the underground, ground level and the sky. They have sacred mountains and often built temples into the rocks themselves to connect with mother earth. We witnessed one of these temples this morning. The rock of the mountain protrudes directly into the center of the temple, with an alter before it.  
 
Day 3 and 12,200 feet
We reached the third pass about 3pm. We are camping here for the night. The rain is steady but not strong, although the area is pretty cloudy. We can see a bit of ruins from the ledge we are camping on, but the clouds come in and out, just giving glimpses. You feel like you are on the top of world, even as the fog clings around us. I have two whole hours before 5pm tea, as I was able to keep up today.  This was a great day; the trail was beautiful, the trail was clear of people as most of the other tour groups had an additional three hours of hiking to get to their camp. The cold soon settled in and it was an early night for everyone.
 
Day 4 and 12,200 feet
This is our last day on the trail. The fog still clings to the mountain. It was cold enough a few people could not sleep, although I passed out soon after my head hit the pillow. We headed down to the first Inca site, which we had glimpses of from camp. It is quite a large site compared to others we have seen, with lots of terraces and buildings and looks almost impenetra

A Train to Machu Pichu

Well things didn't quite work out for me on the trail (this is Lee) so I travelled to Machu Pichu by the other way. Forrest left on the Sunday (April 26) in the morning. Once i got myself together i booked extra days in the hotel (the staff were so wonderful through this ordeal) and then went down to the Andean Treks office to make sure the Machu Pichu part of the package was still available to me. They arranged so my transportation within Machu Pichu (and that i paid for) was still valid and my entrance ticket into the site. They arranged a local representative to walk me around the city to all the agencies and offices so that i could secure a train ticket for wednesday to the site and another bus up to Machu Pichu and admission for Wednesday. I got the Wednesday train ticket and since the "Vista Dome" was only $15 more i booked on that. It is one step above the "Backpacker" and comes with steward service, a 180 degree view of the scenery (since everything is vertical on the trip) and is very comfortable. I was lucky and had a whole table section to myself.

When Wednesday finally came (April 29) i got up early and the hotel had arranged one of their drivers to take me to the station the train pulled out from. It was a half hour drive. The station was beautiful and very well maintained. I don't know what it is but i love travelling by train and this was going to be a treat. By that morning i had pretty much gotten over the disappointment of not going on the adventure hike. I was ready to go on this one and as the owner of the hotel we had been staying at mentioned, Peggy, I could blog about another aspect of Cusco and Machu Pichu.

The ride to Machu Pichu took us through canyons and valleys that were narrow and wedged between huge mountains that were in reality the peaks. One thing that is always difficult to remember is that when in Cusco you are on top of the mountains or nestled away in valleys that are very far up (between 7 and 13 thousand feet up to be exact) and so what look like massive mountains in the middle of no where, and are stretching up an additional few thousand feet, are actually mountain tops. I would always have to remember where i was geographically. And if i didnt consciously then my body would remind me as the physical effort you have to exert at sea level for the equitable activity is so much more and different at 12,000 feet.

The valleys were beautiful and the scale of the landscape breath-taking. All along the trip i saw lush, arable valleys fed by mountain run-off and large white-water rivers. Their were large and small estates, plantations, and ranches that had mass tracts of land with seemingly whole villages used to work the land. There were also the small plot farmers who tended to use the terraced tracts along the mountain-sides and rivers banks. One thing was certain the land was very arable even at this height and ALOT of food is produced in the Andes. It became clear quickly that the same terrain provided both a challenge and an advantage to the those who settled these areas. It was not hard to see, especially when you witness the pure scale of the construction of the Inca sites, that it was the largest Empire in the new world before the Spanish.

All along the valley there were citadels, forts and remains of outposts and towns. Some were Spanish, most were from the Inca. All were impressive and the precision of the stone work is not even fathomable until you seem them up close.

We eventually arrived in the small town at the base of the mountain that Machu Pichu sits atop. The town is called today, "Machu Pichu Pueblo." It is a small town winding its development around the base of the foot of the peaks and along the white-water river. When i arrived i took a ride into town and dropped off my luggage. I then proceeded to get on the first bus up to the Machu Pichu. I have to say i am not afraid of heights and i have gotten used to the Central and South American way of driving (especially public transportation). It isnt for the light-hearted and when you are speeding up the side of a mountain at 90 km an hour (as a reference 100 kmh is equivalent to 60mph) with no guard rails and very little foliage to catch anything, oh and its one lane with bused speeding both directions. i kept my eyes closed for the entire trip up there. and when they meet another vehicle head on by the time they both stop there is literally only feet between the two before one has to back up. Usually the one coming down the mountain. To the driver's credit they are used to the driving conditions, very seasoned drivers, and seemingly well trained.

At the top of the mountain just outside the ruins is the gathering area for tour groups. I was not part of tour group that afternoon but i nevertheless had to fuel up (eat) as no eating is allowed in the park thank goodness. There are also no toilets so you need to use the ones in the gathering area. They are spotlessly clean and only cost one Solei to use.

That is something you notice right away is that EVERYTHING is well maintained. The money that they get from tourism definately goes back into the infrastructure. The buses are modern, the trains are very comfortable (ran by the same company who runs the Orient Express) and the site, with as many tourists and groups who go through those paths, trails and the ruins they reduce the impact on the site. It's very impressive.

The site itself was breath-taking. To describe it would not do it justice. We all know the pictures from school and travel logs but to stand before it and witness its placement amidst a geography that is vast and its scale unfathomable you understand the sacredness of the spot and the energy the location much less the site exudes. I would not truly grasp Machu Pichu's influences until the next day when exploring the main site. But that is for a later blog entry.

My goal that afternoon was not to go into the main ruins (the ruins that you see in travel books and on television) but the upper ones that sit up higher and are terraced. I wanted to wait to go into the main parts for when Forrest arrived. So i explored the upper areas and then decided to walk to the Sungate (over an hours walk each way) to see where Forrest and the rest of the group would enter the site.

The whole trail up to the Sungate was beautifully paved with stone. It was an arduous task (i didnt bring the right hiking boots) as the unevenness of the path made for a fight and the altitude was not helping. By the time i got close to the Sungate i was worn out and ready to turn back. I hoped at that moment that the entire Inca Trail was not paved as such. I came to find out later on meeting up with the group that it had been. I am glad i walked up to the Sungate because i would not have known the true challenge and sense of accomplishment the group made. I had only had two and half hours of it they had four days and their climbs and descents were much more technical and challenging than the path to and from the Sungate.

I looked at my watch and tried to gauge my ability to stay another three hours without going through the main site, before they would arrive (the Inca Trail group and Forrest). I decided as much as i wanted to wait, the altitude was starting to get to me and the unintended exersion of the sungate trail had taken it out of me. I had seen enough and communed with the sacred mountain (that incidently sat across from the ruins and to which i was drawn to before i even knew its significance). I decided i should go back into town and check out the hotel.

I waited at the hotel for several hours (the group was a little later than expected). Forrest got into the hotel and immediately said the group was relaxing at the hotsprings at the edge of town. I imagined some rustic area of hot springs but when we got there it was a very well developed area. There were changing rooms, the springs themselves were four pools of varying degrees of temperature and intensity. There was bar and it seemed EVERYONE was enjoying the water. I have to say it was very refreshing and i wasnt the one who went on a hike. I cant imagine how it must have felt for them.

I was surprised to see how well everyone was doing. I expected them to be wiped but i think the adrenaline of walking into Machu Pichu, much less the four day technical hike, had a lot to do with their state. They were all smiling, all reminiscing and everyone of them seemed to value what they had accomplished. You can tell that they had developed a strong camraderie of accomplishment. The whole group was very nice and encouraging and had a great sense of humor. I was glad this was the group Forrest had to do his dream trip with. Afterwords the group went back to camp and Forrest and I went to go get a good meal in him.

We both crashed that night.

Forrest on the Inca Trail Day 1 & 2

Inca Trail Day 1 & 2

 

Day 1: 6am and 12,000 feet.

The bus got to our hotel and we headed off for a three hour ride to the trailhead. The bus ride itself let me see the rural part of Peru, people still grow crops in little plots a few hundred feet wide and carried food to market on their backs. We stopped for snacks and the bathroom in a town called Ollantaytambo. It was our first glimpse of ancient Inca sites, you just looked up and saw massive forts and complexes high above the town. During the ride, we actually dropped 3,000 feet to the start of the trail.

           

Day 1: 9:30am and 9,000 feet

We geared up, the porters took our main gear (we were allowed 22lbs), tents and other supplies. We took our day packs. The trail started in desert or scrubland and one of our first sights was an agave cactus. This was the easy day to let us get used the altitude. I was soon falling behind, constantly out of breath. My body was not cooperating. The assistant guide Carmen was hanging back with me, coaching me along “take it slow” and “breathe deeply” almost became a chant of hers. We hit an Inca site on the way, with a fort, terraces and a temple. We stopped for lunch, and much to our surprise, we found a full tent with a table and chairs, along with bathroom tents were set up. After lunch the climb began. We had about 1,000 feet to do today. I grew further and further behind. Carmen would stop me, noticing my fingers turning purple due to lack of air. I was dizzy and lightheaded (more than normal) and just had to take it slow.

 

Day 1: 5pm and 10,000 feet

I got to camp about an hour after the others. I talked to both Carmen and our Guide César – would I be able to do manage the climb tomorrow? There is a difference between dogged determinedness and stupidity and there was only one way off the mountain – walking. They both told me they thought I could do it, so I was in bed by 8pm, getting ready for the big day.

 

Day 2: 6:30am and 10,000 feet

            We were warned about day 2. It was a 3,000 foot climb to dead woman’s pass, 13,000 feet in all her glory. We were awakened by Carmen with a cup of hot tea right in our tent and a bowl of hot washing water. We were off by 7:30am. After about an hour, the trail turned from dirt to rock, steps mostly. We climbed through the cloud forest, which reminded me of home. Moss on the rocks and trees, madrona trees, rhododendrons, ferns all along a path made of granite river rocks – I was amazed how similar it looked. It was frustrated, I wanted to go faster and I had easily climbed such trail at home. But, of course, they were not at 10,000+ feet either. I soon figured out stopping for rests did little to get more air, you were winded 50 feet later no matter what. I learned to stop for three or ten breaths and to keep moving. I soon fell behind the group. My body refused to acclimatize. I was an hour late for lunch but they all waited for me.  Lunch was a small bowl of soup and a hamburger bun with a single slice of cheese, as no one would have enough breath to digest AND hike. Meals would continue to be light through the trip. My entire ascent that day would be a total of one egg, one piece of toast, a half of bowl of broth, a hamburger bun with a single slice of cheese and two bites of a snickers bar.

           

 

Day 2: 1pm and 11,000 feet

We headed off to lunch, it would be two more hours to the peak, the trail is as steep as hell. I got my rhythm, three deep breaths per step. Carmen behind me – “take your time”, “breath deeply” and “take it slow”. One of the porters arrived about 45 minutes into the ascent and took my day pack from me, putting it atop his 50 lb load. He then followed me step by step, despite my protests that he to go ahead. After the first hour, I had Carmen, the head porter, the porter with my day pack and a guide from another group (same company) all steps behind me making sure I was ok. If I stepped wrong or wobbled a bit, they would get ready to catch me, like a Mom getting ready to catch a toddler on a climbing toy. I was better than the day before, but I never caught my breath. I am used to just pushing through things, you cannot with altitude sickness, the harder you push, the sicker and more dangerous it becomes. I made sure it never progressed over mild altitude sickness. All in all, I arrived at the pass an hour late, pretty good, considering I was planning to reach it well after dark. I wanted to shout and celebrate as I hit the top, but catching my breath seemed more important.

 

Day 2: 3pm and 13,000 feet

We soon headed down the other side (steep rock stairs) for 90 minutes. I got into camp at 4:40pm, time to collapse, wash, and be at tea for 5pm. The first few days took their toll, I never really caught my breath, cramps everywhere, as no oxygen got to my muscles and my stomach shut completely as the body had to make a choice between oxygen and digestion. I did not really get to know my other trekkers in the first few days, always behind and exhausted once I caught up. They were very supportive, but I was focused on breathing. This was hard day on everyone and sleep came at 8pm. We had another 800 feet to climb in the morning. 

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